ok so, heres everyones time to shine, what would you do with a 350 block? what engine ould you make? 355, 327, 383?? post em!!! lets see it

 

Theres no reason to make a 327, a 350 or 383 will make more power. If you have the means, build the 383, if you're on a budget, go with the 355.

 

I built a 355

 

Living room table!

http://www.stud.ntnu.no/~shane/stasj...mor/div/3.html

 

How come nobody talks about a 395,,, 3.875" stroke & 4.030" bore?

I have a 4 bolt L98 block which I plan on biulding into a 395 (some call it a 396). Chevy High Performance magazine has written two series on two different cars with 395s.

 

Haha that table is really sweet. I like it.

 

I LOVE that table! I'm gonna have to make one. The bottle holder is sweet! I'll have to use a F*ord block though!

 

Unlimited budget you mean?

383 stroker forged pistons/crank/rods
8:1 compression
Turbo! Single blower, ball bearing, about 20lbs of b-b-boost
Top mount intercooler underneath custom 3" cowl
Nitrous spraybar kit for the intercooler
Stand alone fuel & engine management system

blueprinted & blanced (of course!!!)

Just one thought that comes to mind

 

It ain't fast enough till you need a heat shield and parachute to keep you from burning up on reentry! LOL

 

most likely i'd put in the shed with my other blocks and parts. right now i'm trying to put a 402 together

 

well the problem with stroked engines is, they dont rev high WELL...i plan on maybe a balanced 35 with forged pistons, maybe forged rods, stock crank due to lack of money....roller conversion, my ported 416 for now, new springs, 1.94 1.6 valves.....

id love a 383 but...yeah....1000 dollar rebuild kit ontop of 500+ in a machine shot.....and you can only rev em to like 5500.....

but yeah, keep em comming!! LOVE the table!!! thats an idea for the 305 block when i trash it

 

There are many 383's that rev higher than 5500 all day long. Just because it has a long stroke doesn't mean it can't rev, it's all how you build it.

 

you can rev a 383 way past 5500rpm easily. I don't know where the mis-conception came from that long stroke motors, can rev higher.

nothing but a wives tale.

the valvetrain has a much larger affect on a motors ability to safely use the higher rpms.

 

hmm...maybe i have a 383 in the making then?? thatd be sweet......what all needs to be done for the crank to fit?? i need new bearings?? ect ect////thanks for help so far

 

What is your 350 block like,,, details,, new or used, 4 bolt or 2 bolt mains???? It depends on the condition of the block and what level of dependibility that you are looking for.

For my 395 project, I bought a brand new 4 bolt L98 block (Chevy part # 10105123). Therefore, all of my sensors and stuff like intake manifold, headers, distributor,, all will bolt right on with no problems. I plan on getting the block bored .030" over, aligned honed, and deck the block down to 9.020" or 9.015". I will have race hardened main bearings installed. Also, I will install studs for the main caps instead of using the stock bolts.

This 395 is a 3.875" stroke forged crank (Callies Dragon Slayer), 30 over pistons with a compression height of 1.213" (SRP-148988 with 14cc dished top), and 5.85" H beam rods. The compression ratio will be around 10.42:1...

It is my goal to biuld a short block that can handle 750HP. I plan on never turning the assembly above 6,000RPM. So I hope that if everything is done right, this short block will last me forever.

 

BTW: the block needs to be relieved to clear the sweep of the crank. So if you are biulding a 383 or a 395 in a Chevy 350 block, the block needs to be relieved at the oil pan rails and also the bottom of the piston skirts (I believe).

 

i just got the block back today. i was suprised to find out they had to bore it +.030 so now it's a 408 (without doing any real math). it's not and never was a 350, it's a run of the mill BBC.

 

ok, its a 1980 something hydrualic cam, reman 350 with less than 4k on the motor......i think the block number is 3970010 ....pretty sure, anyways, it SHOULD be flawless, i just wanna build it to be somehting around 450 hp...let me kno what yall think...oh....oretty sure its 2 bolt...not Positive though....til i drop the pan tomarrow....

 

There are some pretty budget priced 383 cast cranks out there to be found, I've seen Cat ones for about $120 on ebay. They're probably better than the factory crank that's in there now. It's awfully hard to say no to building a stroker at that price.
In fact it may be the least expensive way to get 400-450 hp. Flattop pistons are cheap and you can find smogger heads ready to go for $350 about, and upgrade it from there.
Get some alum heads next year, and start working on a roller block with forged parts for later.
How much $$ is the ??
I built a 327 cause I had a forged lj crank sitting around, and a block and some ok iron heads. I couldn't see letting that stuff go to waste.

 

If it is a 2 bolt main block, you can have it machined into a 4 bolt with straight bolts or studs, or you can get the slayed (sp) 4 bolt arrangement,, this will make for a much stronger bottom end, which is what you want if you are going over 400HP.

Get the stuff done to the block that I listed above in an earlier post. You should be good to go then.

 

hmm, i dunno if i wanna go non forged crank ona 383...i want this to go togather one time..well the bottom end at least, i have hads that will DO for now,not the best, but they work...

anyoen have a Guesstimate on how much the machine shop will hit me with to get it clearanced, and everything else to convert it to roller....turn it to a 4 bolt...ect.....

like i said this is going to be a long project...and i have arunning 305 in my car now,runs real good....in factmy 3.73s go in long before the 383 ....that should prove to be interesting...383 with 3.73s heh...anyways....

i dont want apure drag engine...400-450 streetable hp that MAY see a shot or more of nitrous...nomore than a 150 shot though.

it will prolly never see 7k rpm.....but i want it to take 6k and not stress......

i was thinking about gettinga full forged stroker kit but thats a GRAND....and forged...heavy as hell with no boost pushing it....might just want forged pistons and cast rods and crank to keep weight down,after all.....i dont want slow sluggish revs...

 

A 4 bolt roller block is much less expensive than having your block machined for 4 bolt mains, and buying a set of retrofit roller lifters. That's why I was suggesting the "low budget 383" approach.
I'd say put your good money into a block that's worthy of all that expensive stuff. A budget motor can be a good learning experience. Heck, you can get a 383 rotating assembly for $600, the same price as a 350 one.
But on the other hand, someone (Pony Killer, I think) submitted a post awhile back saying that he's running in the 11's using a flat tappet hyd cam. Proof that just cause you don't have rollers doesn't mean you can't go fast.

 

How much HP does that table have? :lala: Table is off the hook!
I say build a 383!!!

 

Sean,

I agree,,, you want to buy a forged crank, H-beam rods, and hypereutetic (sp) pistons (or forged pistons) with 4 bolt mains.

This will make for a very strong bottom end which should last a very long time. Probably good for 750HP with a limit on RPM of 6,000RPM,, at that limit, the bottom end should last forever.

You will have to check around your area for a good engine shop that can machine the block. Cost will vary, maybe $600 to $700 for everything done (thats bore & hone the cylinder bores, deck block, and align hone the mains).

I would not waste my time or money on a 355 when for the same cost you can put together a 383. The 383 cu in. is .030" over bore (same as a 355) but a stroke of 3.750" (instead of 3.48" for a 350 or 355 engine). A very good forged rotating assembly will cost between $1200 and $1500 (I think).

I will check around for some of my web sites for rotating assemblies and post latter.

 

Try these sites:

www.wheelermotorsports.com
www.scatcrankshafts.com
www.gofaststuff.com
www.racenet.net
www.flatlanderracing.com
www.nu-tekmotorsports.com

 

yeah im pretty sure im going with the 383, 355 seems pointless when id have to buy all new pistons,get almost the samestuff done ina machine shop...all for 5 more cubes....NOT worth it, if i were going with a 355 id just stay 350 and slap it in....

so roller or flat tappet? flat tapped wouldbe easiest yes,but roller is so so so much better lol.....i was wanting to keep this block because i know its good, its in my garage....great condition on all parts.....4k on the reman engine.....pistons rings ...everythingis flawless....I will shop around...look fora roller 350 block.....would be alot cheaper and easier to start with that seeing how i am going to bore it and replace everything internally anyways....prolly trade the 350 i have for it.....and then get 200 for it as well.....like i said...flawless 4k...anyways....keep em commin!! lets have fun with this post....get the ideas flowing

 

what ever you do with a 350 block... dont let it do this to you...

Those two lines should be parallel

 

wtf?? did the cam get bent or are the lobes worm unevenly??? i dont see what im supposed to be seeing...heh

 

look at the angle on the last lobe... its supose to be straight across... there were 4 lobes like that... and 4 lifters that would not come out of the holes... the lifters instead of being flat on the bottom... were majorly dished on the bottom... very fun to pull outta the block.... the one on the left is dished and the one on the right is flat like it should be... little scratched but flat.

 

http://www.competitionproducts.com/page1-index.html

Can't beat the prices.

 

355 w/ roots.

my next plan.

 

yeah thats what i THOUGHT i saw ....but its hard to tell without the cmain hand ...pics dont so justice ......

 

is that table made out of an ls1 block?

 

I wonder what sort of metal shavings are floating around the oil... heck of a way to grind a cam, lucky it didn't snap, as mine did on my Hyndai Excel...

If I had the money, I'd simply BUY an LS1 and slap that into my fenderwells... but I don't so this is what I want to do, roughly in order, or not, dunno.

Exhaust, K&N cold air custom set-up, maybe move the MAF right in front of the 58mm TB I want to get, oh yeah, can't forget the Stealth Ram set up, (some sort of heads, *shrug*) adjustable fuel regulator bumped up to a few psi over stock, better injectors (*shrug*) oh yeah, can't forget that it's going to become a 383, so all that goes with that, pretty typical build, nothing exotic, 6 qt oil pan, trans cooler, a computer-compatible cam (*shrug*) some ECM custom chip to bring it all together, dunno if this is what you wanted, but hey, that's what I'd do if I had another block floating around, piecemeal it together over time and when I think it's ready, dump it in my GTA.

Oh, and shoehorn my old 350 TPI motor into my wife's '96 Grand Prix, transverse-mounted...!