After seeing all the talk about 305 heads here I figured I will give it a shot. I bought new springs, locks, retainers, valves + rockers and figured I will stuff them into these 416's I picked up from the local wrecker for25$.
I talked to a few local machine shops and can get the seats cut for 8$ can/valve.
I just got a digital camera as an early Xmas present so I will post before, during and after pics for others to see, use, and give opinions.
I have saved pretty much every pic of a ported bowl/pocket + runner I have come across and think from those and some of the advice given here I have a good idea what needs to be done.
First 2 Pics are of the what it took to get the 2.02 vavle to fit in the what used to be 58 cc chamber.

 

2nd pic

 

3rd

 

what is the new cylindar volumer. it has to be bigger than 58 cc now, right?

 

I have a crapload more of before pics, where is a good place to put them up for everyone to see?
Sorry about the size, I will get the hang of this yet.
All and any Tips+Suggestions are welcome!
I should have time to start porting end of next week.

Andy

 

email them to me. i wanna see, i may do that with the 305 heads i have. check your pm's for my email address.

 

I have not cc'd the after volume yet, I figured I would wait until the valves are cut in to get an accurate # and then I will have to even them out.
The intake port measured at 162 and ex's at 54cc's
My block has been decked leaving the 6cc flattops .005 in the hole so a little compression loss will be welcome!

 

if you have an ftp program, i can give you ftp address to mywebsite to upload all the pics you want

 

I spent an hour out in the garage afterwork today and managed to get one intake port done. It's amazing how much you can open up the pushrod pinch.
I am going to print off Vader's template and compare it to mine to see how much work I have left in this port .
Once I get them all done I will take them to get the larger valves cut in and then I will blend the bowls.
Let me know what you guys think.

 

intake port

 

another

 

A good start. To see the benefit of a larger 2.02 valve
you really want to open up the port and bowl.
Concentrate on the roof of the port and the outside wall
(Blue and grean areas) widen the port at the guide boss
(green arrows) Cut down and slim the guide boss ( red)

The yellow arrow is a very high flow area and working this area gets you the most improvement.

Only after carving theses areas does the "push rod pinch" area become a restriction and need carving.
You pretty well can't make thses ports too big so don't be shy. The floor and push rod side wall of the port only need to be cleaned up and widened a bit.

 

You can upload photos to Yahoo Photos then post the Yahoo Photos link for all to see. All thats required is a Yahoo email account (free).

Good pics should work pretty well for ya when they are done.

 

The yellow arrow shows the high flow path as it swirls into the chamber towards the plug.
You can deshroud the chamber near the valve to improve mid lift flow and enhance swirl. (Green area.)
use a head gasket as a guide so you don;t get carried away. The Red area is a weak area on all small block heads. the flow is not concentrated there so carving exessivly here will not get you much and increases the chances of a crack. On the exhaust side you can unshroud the chamber in the blue area.
Carve two flow paths past the guide boss in the port
(light blue area) and raise the roof of the exhaust port.

Purple arrows - nicely done here.

 

Thank you very much for taking the time to draw up those pics for me, those are just the kind of help and advice i need. It's hard to do with the 1.84 seats in the road , but I figured I would do the lion's share before I take them to the machine shop.
I will work some more on the area's shown and post some more.
I put some pics on yahoo http://ca.f2.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/rustybluebird2000
hopefully the link works.
I will do an exhaust port as well next time I make it out to the garage.

 

I've got a quick question qhile the topic is up. I want to get some new vavle guides for my project '416's and I wanted to know how much I can cut down the vavle guide boss and still be able to have new guides installed???

 

You can have the valve guides "relined" if they are worn. You do this before the valve job.
K-Line. Bronze liners

Then you can shorten the guide boss.

Discuss this operation with a qualifed automotive machine shop in your area.

 

I made it out to the garage for a few hours today with vader's templates. I had to do some more heavy removal in a few places but mostly fine tuning allowed them to fit.
I also learned that a rocker stud is almost as hard as a cheap drill bit!
So now I think I have 1 intake and exhaust done, 2 studs pinned,
some deshrouding, and other miscellanious damage done.

 

vertical template

 

pinned stud front

 

pinned stud back

 

exhaust port

 

exhaust bowl

 

Looks like its coming along nicely.

Yes the outer surface of each rocker stud is quite hard.
tends to eat the drill bits.
You can sharpen them by hand using your porting stones. The bits must be sharp to cut, so the time is better spent sharpening them instead of leaning on the drill. Use moderate speed and pressure and sharpen the bits often.
You get good at creating the right cutting face by hand on the drill bits after a while.

 

You can straighten the wall where the arrow points.
Increases "Port Bias" Good for flow and swirl.

 

The hiflow area is where the green arrows are.
Nice job carving two flow paths around the guide boss.

You can widen the exhaust port at the roof some, all the way from the guide to the exit.
But only as big as your headers are.

 

See the more square shape of the exhaust port exit on these aftermarket heads. You can carve yours simular.
The bigger the headers you are using the bigger you can widen the roof of the port.

 

Thank you very much for the support and advice f-bird, I appreciate it alot. As far as the ehaust ports go I am fairly restricted right now because of the cheap 1.5" shorties I have on there now. I will try to straighten the common wall a little more and then make some new templates (they still basicly will be a copy of vader's though). I also did some more deshrouding too.

 

Ya with the 1.5" headers ya just have to work within the limitations. Not much point in making the exhaust exit bigger than the headers.

You pics are nice and clear. Going to help a lot of people that are interested in doing their own heads at home but don't know quite how to tackle it.

I'm going to have to get myself a digital camera, It's on the wish list..

You might want to take road trip to CTC and get a rat tail file. Cut off the end with a cut off wheel, and put it in your 3/8" electric drill.
The file works great to straighten out your work on the walls and corner radii of the intake port.
takes the bumpyness out of the carving you did with the carbide bits and makes for nice straight walls and roof.
Cuts material amazingly well even at drill speed.
The length helps ya get deep in the port to get at the common wall. Leaves the right finish on the port surface too.

 

Last night I figured I would try filling the egr passages with aluminum and learned that when hot, melted alum touches wood it makes fire. It also makes fire when it comes in contact with pretty much anything. I think it went well though.
I picked up some used pistons off the ground at the auto wrecker, took them to the garage and smashed them to small pieces with a sledge. Small chunks of alum flying at mach 3.8 are a little hard on the shins though.
I welded together a ladle out of some 3" .250 wall tubing and .250 flat and a chunk of small angle and used a oxy-act torch to heat the pot. To block the holes I stuffed some mineral wool insulation (pretty much impossible to burn) in the ehxaust ports an held them in with a valve stem.
As far as the porting goes I have one head ready for a valve job and have just started on the second.

 

egr filled

 

intake side

 

That file trick helped alot to square up the corners and flatten the roof and side, Thanks.

 

Looks pretty beauti......

 

I have no idea what the shops in your area charge to have a head flow tested-$25/pair here-but that would be a great way to see in black and white exactly how much gain all this work turned into, not to mention our shop will tell you exactly what else you could do and get some more cfm going. I know my AFR 210 70% CNC ported flowed really good numbers, but these experienced guys were showing me little minute things here and there to clean them up a little and gain another 15-20 cfm per cylinder. I'm gonna save that and a 5 angle valve job for next winter so I 'll have something to base everything off of though. Seems the biggest thing with even good after market heads is core shift which can be pretty bad in a factory head and so-so in aftermarket.

 

Yah, Flow benching would be about the only way to tell if I have actually done anything benificial or not.
It will be impossible to tell in the car because but I'm sure going from shaved 882's and a 204/214 420/443 112 with 9.68:1 to 416's and a 230/230 480/480 109 with 10.4:1 will make a difference.
Hopefully I will stay out of pre-detonation with poper quench, high octane, conservative timing and DCR theory. I will phone around on monday to see if I can find a flow bench and if the price is right I will defintly have them before and after tested (the one head is still pretty much untouched).
As long as I trap 100mph or a 13.99 I will be happy and I don't think that will be to hard considering I'm running 97mph at 14.3 right now with my baby cam and "smogger" heads.

 

Where are you located? My friend has a flow bench.
In Niagara. Is familiar with modified 416's.

 

A little to far away (saskatoon, SK), but thanks for the offer.

 

Would be a bit of a road trip