Car Cranks...wont Start...heres What Ive Done...
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 559
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From: PORT RICHEY, FLORIDA
Car: 1983 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 1986 305 C.I.D. Bored .030 over
Transmission: TH350 W/Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: 3:08
Car Cranks...wont Start...heres What Ive Done...
Ok 1983 camaro...305 4bbl....stock HEI ignition
car cranks wont start
verified fuel delivery
held spark plug wire near header...cranked...no spark
replaced....ignition module...ignition rotor and ignition coil
ive checked all wires......and all connections..all are in good shape...
battery and alt are good....
simple system..yet im stumped
any hellp is greatly appreciated
car cranks wont start
verified fuel delivery
held spark plug wire near header...cranked...no spark
replaced....ignition module...ignition rotor and ignition coil
ive checked all wires......and all connections..all are in good shape...
battery and alt are good....
simple system..yet im stumped
any hellp is greatly appreciated
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
From: PORT RICHEY, FLORIDA
Car: 1983 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 1986 305 C.I.D. Bored .030 over
Transmission: TH350 W/Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: 3:08
est connector...that would be...what...and no didnt verify voltage to distributor..btu battery is brand new..what would i have to check...im not totally new but not experienced as some of you guys..so any help would be appreciated no matter how basic
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Originally posted by 83CAMAROMAN
est connector...that would be...what...and no didnt verify voltage to distributor..btu battery is brand new..what would i have to check...im not totally new but not experienced as some of you guys..so any help would be appreciated no matter how basic
est connector...that would be...what...and no didnt verify voltage to distributor..btu battery is brand new..what would i have to check...im not totally new but not experienced as some of you guys..so any help would be appreciated no matter how basic
To check voltage going to the dist, find the connector on the cap that is labeled "Batt", that is the 12 V input to the dist., check it for voltage to ground with the key on.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 559
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From: PORT RICHEY, FLORIDA
Car: 1983 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 1986 305 C.I.D. Bored .030 over
Transmission: TH350 W/Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: 3:08
i just checked..dont see brown wire....or single connector on passenger side..what does est stand for...still have to check voltage but its 325 am so ill wait till morn..lol
EST= Electronic spark timing (what the ECM uses to adjust timing)
But by the looks of that pic (if thats you & your car) then i doubt you have the computer controls any more...So, verify 12 V going TO the dist. If it has 12 V going in then it has to be one of the parts you already changed that was bad from the box.
One more thing, check the grounds from the engine to body, make sure they are there still and clean (under the connecting lugs too)
But by the looks of that pic (if thats you & your car) then i doubt you have the computer controls any more...So, verify 12 V going TO the dist. If it has 12 V going in then it has to be one of the parts you already changed that was bad from the box.
One more thing, check the grounds from the engine to body, make sure they are there still and clean (under the connecting lugs too)
Last edited by Morley; Jan 1, 2004 at 10:34 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
From: PORT RICHEY, FLORIDA
Car: 1983 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 1986 305 C.I.D. Bored .030 over
Transmission: TH350 W/Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: 3:08
yeah as you can see from the pic no computer controls...or computers for that matter...lol...i tried to keep it simple...im bettin it was just a bad part out of the box..cause their literally isnt much else to change..but i do need to verify voltage....
ill keep ya updated
ill keep ya updated
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 603
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From: Ohio
Car: 1985 Iroc-z
Engine: 355 sbc
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by 83CAMAROMAN
yeah as you can see from the pic no computer controls...or computers for that matter...lol...i tried to keep it simple...
yeah as you can see from the pic no computer controls...or computers for that matter...lol...i tried to keep it simple...
if you find your 12 volt power is in fact dishing 12 volts, i would focus your attention back to your coil... the ignition module can be tested but have them test it a few times (to get it heated up) or use a blow dryer... but i think its your new coil =]
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
From: PORT RICHEY, FLORIDA
Car: 1983 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 1986 305 C.I.D. Bored .030 over
Transmission: TH350 W/Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: 3:08
so you think that i may have replaced the bad coil with a bad coil...great...lol
Originally posted by 83CAMAROMAN
so you think that i may have replaced the bad coil with a bad coil...great...lol
so you think that i may have replaced the bad coil with a bad coil...great...lol
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
From: PORT RICHEY, FLORIDA
Car: 1983 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 1986 305 C.I.D. Bored .030 over
Transmission: TH350 W/Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: 3:08
ok youve officially surpassed my level of expertise..i have a manual though so i will look into how do do that
Originally posted by 83CAMAROMAN
ok youve officially surpassed my level of expertise..i have a manual though so i will look into how do do that
ok youve officially surpassed my level of expertise..i have a manual though so i will look into how do do that
Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 343
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From: Louisiana
Car: 1989 Formula 350 / 2000 Lightning
Engine: GM HO 350 Crate (Vortec headed w/TPI) / SC 5.4 330
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 (Raptor Rebuild Kit)
just an observation......Did you put the grease on the module???? If not, it will short out instantly and be dead like the old one.
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