are these i beam or standard Cast

 

side view

 

They appear to be standard stock forged (cast blank) steel rods, just like these:



However, appearances can be deceiving. Are there any identify marks?

 

They look to be factory rods, and they are also I beams.

 

im trying to decide on what to upgrade in the block....i will prolly get forged pistons.....this engine wont see more than 400 hp. MAYBE a 150 shot in the far future. dont know if these rods will take it. yes?? no??

any suggestions on pistons? hypereuctitc (SP) or forged?

ill go search for marks on the rods after lunch

 

stupid question time....how do you measure the pistons to tell if they are .30 over or standard 350 bore....micrometer? and if so what is the stock piston size....

 

Well, a stock 350 is a 4" bore, stock pistons will be ever so slightly smaller (few thousandths), so if you measure them, even with dial calipers, and they are over 4" they are oversized.

 

there are no cast rods fors a SBC, maybe cast blanks but the end result is a forged rod. stock rods are i beam. can't measure pistons with a caliper, at least not where it matters. pistons are tapered and sometimes out of round. to measure a piston use a mic on the same palne as the wrist pin at rotated 90* from the wrist pin. not sure on the exact sizes, you'd have to check the spec sheet for your pistons, but stock would be near 4" and +.030 would be near 4.030. if your running a power adder you'd want forged everything. if you're planning an engine either plan it NA or as a power adder now. you can't optimize parts for both.

 

didnt know they didnt make cast rods, weird. and i plan on it being n/a 99% of the time witha 1% chance a 150 shot might hit it. never going to supercharge it, never a turbo, nor blower, rare chance itll see nitrous....i dontreally wanna have forged internals due tothe rotating mass being greater and robbing more power than its helping, they dont make lighter forged parts.??..meaning, ....Semi forged....not bullet stopping metal but not heavy as all hell in the same go...a medium plane....

 

A connecting rod has a very hard life. It really needs to be a strong piece. In a street engine like what you are planning, cast pistons and cranks are just fine. Get good reconditioned rods. You don't want one coming apart.

BTW, a forged steel part in not necessarily heavier than a cast iron part. It all depends on how it is marketed. My forged steel stroker crank weighs 5 lbs less than a standard iron crank.

 

ty for the info ...i like people talking stuff out with me, not just going "no you are wrong" or whatever....yeah chances are, i am wrong, i dont know ALOT about engines...just a fair amount....

i just want an engine thatll hold up to a decent streetable beating....not pure drag, ...and definatly not a granny car.....my Stock internal L03 has taken a hell of a beating and is running fine still.....so i just want a decent medium of parts because if stock can take what i throw at it....then a good medium should be just fine. i might go forged pistons because IF i get a wild hair and decide to spray on a one a week basis , i dont want melted pistons. keep in mind this is my daily driver.

i have been posting on here for a lil while trying to decide what im going to do with this 350.....either make it a 383 , keep it 350...etc etc.....so i finally came to the conclusion of a 383 costing way too much for my expenses, and this being a good 4 bolt 350 --minus the crack thats on the oil filter housing that SEEMS to be ok--

so bare with me people, for i have had no one to show me the right from wrong...its all been me reading and asking people...so ty for your help and everything thus so far.

 

THere are lots of affordable 383 kits out there. However, they be out of your price range. strokermotor.com has a kit that sells for 1000, may be more depending on block choice. This kit uses an iron crank, hyper. pistons, and steel rods. All quality, name brand parts. Look around the web for stroker kits, you may find that for kits with cast cranks and pistons, they are much cheaper than you thought.

If you are going to stick with a 350 rebuild, have your crank and rods thoroughly inspected by a credible machine shop and they can most likely be reconditioned to "new" like condition. As for pistons, I would go with hyperutectic pistons. They have a high silicon content and so they don't expand under heat as much as forged or cast. That way you can run tighter clearances in the cylinders. Also they are a step up from cast and don't usually cost as much as forged. Some deals are out there with forged pistons if you want a set of those. But I don't think you would ever need forged slugs based on what you described above.

Have fun...

 

i have seen kits for around 650 dollars, come sbalanced, with hyper pistons....ebay has quite a few...mad dog racing has some....its just the machine shop thatll kill me money wise.

the 350, was remanufactured 4k miles ago...then it just Sat in my 86 for 3 years not running, so i pulled the block apart to check out everything and see if it was ok, clean up some rust in the cyl walls from not having heads on it...put new rings in it, and make it a lil more befy and have the internals balanced.

im fairly certain the rods are fine....as well as the crank and pistons....i will however replace all the bearings as a step towards saftey.... --no idea what crank it is cause it was reman...not stock..-- same goes with the cam, no clue what the specs are on it.

i need to figure out what cams will work in the 3970010 block --if anyone knows please tell me--

i see the 350 up and running,...balanced, new pistons and rods...seals and bearings for a little over 600 dollars total...in fact doesnt summit have 350 kits going for something like 350 dollars minus rods, but comes with hyper pistons? ill have to check on that

383 will cost me 1500 bucks. and give me 12 MPG lol....like i said, this is my daily driver, i get poor gas milage as it is.....383 would kill me , all be it, it wouid be fun as all hell to own.

as always, if anyone wants to IM me on AIM and bs about this, feel free, that way we dont clog up the boards with conversation

AspiredTwo - AIM

 

Becareful with mileage assumtions. Just because it is a stroker doesn't mean it WILL get poor mileage. Cam, fuel system, tune, all of that play a major role in fuel economy.

If you engine is so new, might as well keep it the way it is.

As for cam to fit that block, that number doesn't mean anything to me. What year car did the block come out of? Does it have factory hydraulic rollers installed? That's about all you need to know.

 

well, its remanufactured.......i didnt see what car it came out of.....as for anything in it being factory...no....reman....i cant find a block date code on the block as of yet....gotta clean some oil off of it....

 

One or two piece rear main seal???

 

According to your casting #, your block should be a two piece rear main 350. A lot of the 010 blocks are four bolt mains, and that casting also has a high nickel content, which makes it a pretty strong and durable block. I think the 010 was used from about 1969 to 1975. A lot of guys look for that casting # to use as a good foundation for a performance motor buildup. That's the same casting I have in my 69 Camaro.

 

forged parts don't weight more than any other part based only on the manufacturing process. your lightest parts are usually going to be forged, not because they're forged but because they're light weight parts and forged adds strength to the part.

 

yeah, i just figured steel weighed more than iron....thats where i got the idea of weight from....steel is more dense than iron, or so i thought