hydrualic 350 4 bolt.....3970010 69-79 block.

ported polished 416 castings, port matched performer manifold, edelbrock 600 carb, headers...

heads will have .600 lift type springs, and roller rockers.

these are the heads i will be using for about 6 months until i get the money for some 64 cc heads. if only it were a roller block..id use my LT1 cam.

Whats a good cam for this set up?? i was thinking of something around a .480 lift. maybe a lil more....i want an even hp/torque ratio....not just pure hp and no torque....need something to even out the port and polishing....something a bit torque like....but not pure torque.

 

Need more info on the car the motor is going into.

rear gear ratio,,, rear tire diameter. Trans converter stall speed, engines compression ratio.

 

3.73, posi.. will be going in it....something like 10.5:1 compression with the 58 cc heads....9.5:1 with the 64....flat top pistons...vette stall coverter...2400 rpm stall....stock 92 z28 rims 16 inch...low profile type tires, not too low profile....like 60's

 

This one seems to work pretty good.

The ported 416 heads seem to like it.
A performer RPM intake is better.

PowerMax
H-278-2
replacing:
HMV-278-2

Find the specs etc here.

H-278-2

 

ehh its just that the rpm like 1500-6500 rpm power range... i like the performer because well..its idle to 5500.....it *seems* like the rpm doesnt put out enough torque due to it being a higher plane manifold?? i dunno...

anyone know the lobe seperation for the 3970010 block?

that cam is rated at Good idle, daily performance usage, mild bracket racing, 3000-3400 cruise RPM, 9.5 to 10.75 compression ratio advised. Basic RPM 2500-5500

but i could be wrong....seems like it takes from torque as well.....through the ported heads and all...

 

jsut to let you know, lobe separation is a measurment on a camshaft not the cylinder block. What do you need to know about the block? are you looking for something specific? 010 block were and are very common.

Also, be sure to use springs designed for the specific camshaft you are using. ".600 lift springs" would apply too much pressure to a .480 lift cam, and that would wear it out a lot faster, if not within a month or so....

 

good call, im thinking in roller Still.....Doh.....yet another reason to convert to roller.....anyways....what im saying is....what seperation did the block casting 3970010 4 bolt use.....im assuming --as always-- that if i use the incorrect lobe seperation , itll mess stuff up, wear unevenly on the cam...

 

Your inexperience is allowing you to read too much into this.

The Performer RPM manifold makes more torque period.
( It also will make more Horsepower.)
Its very responsive right off idle. I've had both. The RPM is the better manifold.
Its just a better manifold overall.
If hood clearance is an issue ( it needn't be) a Weiand Stealth dual plane is a good one too.

This cam and manifold is a good match for what you have and what you're tryng to do. And will work well with a new after market cylinder head in the future.
This combination works. Done it.
If the cam doesn't tickle your fancy (ya think it's too big, pick the next milder one. ( H272-2) it's a good one too.
If infact you're not going to go with the 3.73's then the H-272-2 may be the better choice.

But the combination I recommended has a good compromise of overall torque/ horsepower/ drivability.
In the real world, it works well. Your planned 3.73's and 22-2400 stall converter are just right.

 

well, it *seemed* as if, when it said power band from 1500 to 6500, and on the cam 2500, all *looks* like it takes away from borttom end...ontop of the porting and polishing i did....so thats why said that

 

well in the real world this combination complements the ported heads. Not to big and not too small.
its a pretty good Tried and true combination. Get the 3.73's and corvette converter and rpm manifold and bolt 'er together. Then go out and "stand on 'er" and see if it doesn't seem to put a grin on your face....

Did you upgrade the valves in the heads from the stock
1.84x1.50 size? very important.

 

no, didnt feel the urge to do that when i was sticking them on a 305....i might do so when they switch to the 350...the vette converter is already on the car now....i just need the 3.73s in now

 

i still dont see how ahigher rise intake manifold with a cam with long duration adds torque, all this seems high rpm direted....added with ported polished heads, a carb, a 2500 stall TC....just explain how it adds torque please

 

I highly recommend you spring for the larger valves
Either 1.94x 1.60 or 2.02 x 1.60's your choice. (cost the same)

When they (a machine shop) cut in the new larger valve seats ( valve job) the chamber walls get sweeped back a bit for the larger
valves in the 305 heads. this will get the final cr in line as the finished chamber will be more like 62cc's.

This is worth more than a roller cam at this point and costs way less. so the $$$ is well spent.
you'd then want to go back and carefully blend the bowls into the new valve job.
if you do it as discribed you probabily won't need the aftermarket heads. It will be powerfull enough.
The over all combination is a winner especialy for the $$$
invested.

 

It's a matter of overall torque output over the usable
rpm band. the performer rpm manifold is a very broad
power band manifold. it works.
A smaller cam will, make more torque down low but will fall off early. This combination will make more actual torque just about every where in the power band.
The torque conver's higher stall speed, rear gearing and increased compression ratio more than make up for
the seeming reduced low end of the longer duration cam.
On a Fbody it is wasted on wheel spin anyways.

it's the overall effect of the combination of parts that counts.

Like I said if you're actually going to wimp out and use 2.73:1 rear gears than pick a milder cam.

Build the combination as discribed, try it and then tell me
it don't have enough bottom end torque for ya.

You're only problem is going to be keeping tread on the tires LOL

 

so keep the heads....1.94 --as i planned to do either way-- i am prolly gonna keep my performer just cause, its what i have and its gasket matched...will get that cam.....and uh.....yeah....should be good enough.....

 

You can lead a horse to water but can ya make 'em drink?

Here's a free speed secret.

If you'd like to "SPRUCE UP" your performer manifold, try this.

Get or make a divided carb spacer out of wood.
(Edelbrock #)

This carb spacer will raise the carb up on the manifold
( like a Hi-rise) and keep the carb cool at the same time.

Don't confuse this with a open plenum carb spacer.