ok today i FINALLY got the time to work on getting my manafolds off. I got both off today (YAY!) and i broke a sensor/switch looking thing. I lost my chilton's and my haynes doesn't have a wire map, i can't tell you which plug the thing is between. Heres how it broke. In was taking out my dipstick and i bumped the sensor/switch with my hand. I noticed some plastic fell off it, so i started griping it with my hand. next thing i know the whole wire fell right out! i tried to press the metal piece that was attached to the witre into the sensor again, but it was sharp like a needle and i couldn't get it back in. So, now i'm wondering what part this is, and how hard is it to reaplace. I'm hoping its nothing really big, but for all i know its probaly my knock sensor. I'm also wondering how much should i be looking to pay to replace this part?
Thanks for any help on the subject. I'm really worried that when i get these TES in my car won't be able to start to go get the cat n' cat-back put on if you guys need a discription on what it looks like, its black (almost looks like the o2 sensor, but i know thats not it. Its on the pass side right by the dipstick) the color of the wire running into it was a greyish/whiteish.
Thanks again,
-Abe

 

If you have an L98 that sensor you broke on the passenger side by the dipstick is your secondary fan switch. If it is the stock switch it will turn on the passanger side fan at about 240 degrees. Your primary fan will come on at about 225 degrees. A stock parts store replacement will be about $10 or you can get a lower temp one from Hypertech for about $50. I thought that was way too much so I did some research and found that the switch from a Buick GN 3.8L turbo turns on at 200 degrees and will fit into the head and the stock style connector is exactly the same. If you broke the connector too you can pick one up for about $5 and any auto parts store in the electrical section. Then you have to go under the car cut the old one off and solder or crimp the new one on.

Gook Luck!!

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1989 Iroc-Z L98 Original engine-58K miles!!

SLP 1 3/4 SS headers, Hooker Areochamber catback, no cat, BBK AFPR, 3.8L Turbo V6 200* fan switch, MSD GM coil, ported and gasket matched plenum, TB coolant bypass, relocated MAT sensor, screenless MAF sensor, K&N filters, Accel cap and rotor, Taylor SpiroPro 8mm wires, Bosch Platinum plugs, Mobil 1 oil, and more to come...
Best ET not corrected- 14.24@96.76MPH / 2.17 60ft on street tires with the crappy B/W 2.77 gears.

Homepage currently under construction: http://www.iit.edu/~wicktho/len

 

WHEW! i 'm glad to hear that! i didn't think it was a fan switch because i thought that they were a pluggable item (like the o2 sensor) my friend who is a GM tech in tranning said he thought it was a knock sensor. I'm probably going to order the hypertech one. Also i'm wondering is $350 for 3.23 gears for a 7.5in rear worth it? (that is with install too.) i currently have 2.73s so, i'm figuring that 3.23s will be a big improvement. thanks for the good news!
-Abe

P.S. i just thought of somthing.. i have the LB9 motor, and i'm still wondering if it could be the knock sensor, since its not a L98? hopefully not.


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1991 Z28 305 TPI.

Mods: Hypertech Airfoil, gutted airboxes, K&Ns,polished 91' rims (they turned pink!), and all rear end bushings & tranny mout are energy suspension poly ones now

*MODS Currently being installed*: Edelbrock TES w/3" outlet y-pipe, 3" catco hi-flow cat, and hooker 3" catback w/areochamber.

MORE TO COME: Any suggestions on what to do next? I really want to try and make the 305 run 13s (i've mostly been doing basic repair to the car, but now most of its done i have money to mod!)e-mail me@ abraham_39@hotmail.com

 

If you have 2 fans and the sensor is in the head not the block it is definately the fan switch on the LB9 you have. You will know it is in the head if it is in between the last 2 spark plugs. I would say thats a deal if they are new gears and are going to replace the bearings during the install. I would go to something like 3.42:1 minimum or 3.73 max if it street driven, 3.73:1 if in the future you want 13's. You will notice quite a nice improvement in off the line acceleration with the swap. If I were you I would get the Buick switch for $25 and you can pick it up at any good parts store.

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1989 Iroc-Z L98 Original engine-58K miles!!

SLP 1 3/4 SS headers, Hooker Areochamber catback, no cat, BBK AFPR, 3.8L Turbo V6 200* fan switch, MSD GM coil, ported and gasket matched plenum, TB coolant bypass, relocated MAT sensor, screenless MAF sensor, K&N filters, Accel cap and rotor, Taylor SpiroPro 8mm wires, Bosch Platinum plugs, Mobil 1 oil, and more to come...
Best ET not corrected- 14.24@96.76MPH / 2.17 60ft on street tires with the crappy B/W 2.77 gears.

Homepage currently under construction: http://www.iit.edu/~wicktho/len