Anyone know where to find online???

 

I think your best bet is to look for other ways to get that CR. What are you trying to do exaclty?

 

Just wanted to up the compression from 9.5 to 10. Since I'm putting new rings and bearings in I just thought if I could get new 10to1 pistons i'd throw those in while I was at it. Not a big priority though.

 

http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.as..._Track_Thunder

KB has some here

 

I'm looking for 305 pisons. I didn't see any on their page.

 

Search Keith Black pistons for Chevy. It's on the top of thr 1st page.
PN KB144

 

Ahhhhhhhhh, I looked under KB and chevy and got 350's and up.

Got it now , Thanks a bunch!!!!!!

 

Burnin' the midnight oil.

 

I work nights. I stay up on my days off too. (wed/thur)

Have you orderd from them?

 

Yeah, I kinda like their shipping-included pricing, and their site is pretty well put together too. I guess there can be better deals found sometimes if you feel like shopping around tho.

...insomnia

 

Their prices seem reasonable.

I just took the bottom end apart tonight, it looks like there's 2 rod bearings bad. They don't look like they spun,but not 100% sure. It looks like they just moved a 1/8 of a turn,if that makes sense.

Anyway,thanks for the info.......and yes , just a little insomnia

 

If your bearings are spun even a little the rod could be damaged, hope you get those checked.
Also, with those domed pistons you might be able to upgrade to vortecs. While your motor is down, it might be a good time to look into relieving the block for bigger valves.
... Just a thought

 

I measured the 2 bad ones, they are no good. Got a set of rods you don't need.
Unless I find some cheap rods ,I might be better off getting another short block somewhere.

Heads i have(WP SR/T305)

 

Cheap rods???
I have a 327 shortblock that I took the crank out of. I guess I might not mind parting it out. It cost $25 to have the rods pressed off the pistons. The rods are reconditioned. But I wouldn't want to sell just 2.

 

Well, it looks like I can get a kit with eveything: pistons,rings,bearings,rods,crank,flex plate,and balancer for $500 +s/h

Question is.........is a 305 worth it??????

 

OHIO Crankshaft has awesome rods for a very good price. i wanna say i payed no more than $150 for forged moly connecting rods...check them out too...oh yeah, they are pressed fit for pressed pins.

 

If you're talking about getting a shortblock, a stroker is the most affordable route to noticable power increases. Only trouble with that is you have some 305 heads that you just got, right?
I've been talking to this guy who has some rods that he sez are good, if I get them I could sell you a couple of those pretty cheap.
There are a lot of choices out there...

 

Thanks guys, I'm going to call the machine shop Monday to see if he has a couple laying around.
If not I think I'll just order the "Kit" I listed above.

88, where you located,West Coast?

 

Wadda ya mean "this guy"?

LoL.

BTW, if the weather is good tomorrow, I'll torque the caps and run the dialbore gauge through them for you.

The things I won't do for a cold beer.....

 

double post--- delete.

 

UH-OH!
Now it's gonna be a race to see who can get to Sac first with a case of coors... me or this other guy.

Snake Oiler,
Located in Eureka
If you get 2 other rods, they might not match the balance weight of the originals. Sometimes that can be trouble. Seems like a good idea would be to put ARPs in your whole set and then have them all resized, that might be a better fix. Check with your machine shop to be sure.
(Mike's the "other guy" that was going to set me up with some rods... this is getting complicated)

Mike, if Snake Oiler needs some rods, I was just gonna keep those for spares anyhow and I already have more than I need, but they want money to take pistons off em.

 

OK,I've decided to order a complete,balanced kit,

crank
rods
pistons
rings
bearings
balancer
flex plate

I measured the bores,they are .004(4 thou) over (3.740) standard bore is 3.736 ,would this be acceptable or should I have it punched 20 over?

88, Eureka, thats in northern Cali, right?

........insomnia???????

 

Northern Cal... yup.
Seems to me the bore should be miked by a pro, if you're not sure.
But if you are bucks down and looking for a shortcut, check the ridge around the top of the bore. Run your finger around the top of the bore and where the top ring stops (about 1/4" from the top) you'll feel a slight ridge. It's best if there isn't one or if it's barely noticable.
Cyls always wear out at the top more than the bottom cause there's more pressure up there.
If there's a ridge, then that means the cyls are tapered. Next you have to figure out if you want to bore it, so you mike the top of the bore and compare that to the size of the bottom of the bore. There's never any wear at the very bottom. So that will tell you how worn the bore is.
But basically if there's no ridge at the top you'll probably be able to use the same size pistons as before, and just hone it.
Does that help? ... hope so
Do you have some mikes? ...snap gauges?

 

Yes, I have a bore gauge, and a digital caliper.
There is a slight ridge, Like you said not worn at the bottom and 4 thou at the top.
The bucks are doin ok , I should just do it right and have it punched 20 over and be done with it. I'm going to call the machine shop monday to see if what I'm looking at price wise. I'll let ya know whats up.

 

Sounds like a kit is the way to go, as long as you can afford it.
I've okie rigged numerous motors by re ringing them when they were much more worn than that and they ran for years. It's cooler to do it right tho.
Still think you might get those 10:1 slugs with your kit? Most places will put together custom kits if you ask em to.

 

10:1's for sure

I'd like to thank everyone for the input.

How's the weather out there 88?Probablly to cold for surfin':rockon:

 

Hey Snake,

If you haven't ordered that kit yet, I've got some stock 305 rods that you can have for free from my stock bottom end. The block has no noises, holds 50 psi oil cold and 35-40psi warm. Bearings have very little wear for 100,000+ miles it had on it. I would only need the price of shipping from 50265 zip code...

FYI: For my 305 rebuild, I'm using 5.7" GM powder metal rods from a '96 LT1 Camaro with 42,000 miles on them (no spun bearings). $42 off of Ebay, WITH PISTONS! Much, much stronger than the under-sized 305 5.7" rods... Now I'll have a set of 350 LT1 pistons to sell as well.

 

Have you considered angle milling the heads for more compression? Much better alternative to pop-ups. Pop ups tend to have a convoluted flame travel that calls for more ignition lead to run properly. Popups also tend to attract more carbon loading and detonation as a result.

If you are planning a head replacement, Protopline heads have a thick enough deck to accomodate a 50cc chamber. The Protopline 906's as well as the standard Proline 180cc heads with 1.94 intake valves will both work on your 305.

 

Hardly surfing at all this winter I surfed too much last year and went broke and wore out my truck too.
So I joined this site to find out how to fix my truck and I ended up having to get a Camaro... Now all I do is work and buy car parts.
BTW Wesilva is right about the pop up pistons, better to mill the deck and the heads for zero deck clearance and the desired CR and then use flattops. You can get your 10:1 CR that way.

 

The KB143's are flat tops, with 58cc heads(mine are) they say a 10:1 will be achieved.10.8 on the domed.
I just realized I didn't state,The engine I'm working on is not the engine in the car,it came from a Monte SS.I wanted to build this engine an swap them,but i't would probably be cheaper to find another to build(350?) Or pull mine. I wanted to keep the camaro useable in case I need it(ie. my truck wont start or something)
I've got a couple of people looking for a donar(sp?).I hate it when a plan falls apart.