I'm putting together a stroker... so far the only parts I have are:
Eagle cast crank, GM roller block & lifters.
So, I'm trying to make a decision on what rods are best for this application, and I did some searches.
It seems like some of the popular choices are the Eagle H beam, Scat H beam, and Scat 4340 cap screw I beam.
Originally my plan was to go with the Scat 4340 I beam, the idea being that they're lighter and less expensive and probably strong enough.
But I'm being swayed toward H beam rods, and the reasons for that is mainly because they are apparently available "stroker clearanced".
I don't have any problem with clearancing my own rods. But if I could get a stronger rod and save myself some labor for just $100 higher price tag, it could be worth it.

So these are my questions about "stroker clearanced" rods:
- Is stroker clearancing a special option for any of the above mentioned rods, is it a special part #, or are all the H beam rods clearanced?
- Would a rod that is stroker clearanced out of the box clear ANY cam?
- There are some Eagle featherweight H beams out there, does anyone know anything about how these might be for my app?

One of my reasons for wanting universal out of the box "stroker clearanced" rods, is because I'm thinking it could make it easier to upgrade cams, should I want to do that. Also, easier to balance than a set of rods that have all been altered.
I realize too that there are a number of good American-made cap screw I beam rods out there which are also stroker clearanced, and feedback on those would be appreciated.

The crank I have is rated for 500hp, but I doubt that I'll be making more than 450hp.
I'm hoping my car will run in the low 12s.

 

I used the Eagle SIR 6" I-beam rods. No clearancing needed.

 

Some guys say they have to grind and some say they don't... Kinda hard to figure out.
Small BC cam?
Checked out your site... My car's in the infantile stages of that. Gotta have one!

 

All the 383 guys outa town . . . or whut ??

 

The Eagle 3D H-beam stroker rods are clearanced. Not sure abt other stroker H-beams, but I would think they would be.


The Eagle H-beams will clear up to .600" lift cams. My LPE 74211 (.530/.560) cleared with plenty of room to spare.



Haven't heard anything abt them. I suspect they would be very pricey and not really needed for a street eng.

 

d00d not to sound like i'm spamming but i just found this awesome place selling 383 for so cheap you wont believe it. Its not a joke either, they are a machining shop in cali.

http://www.larrysperformance.com/data/assemkits.html

383 2 Bolt $995
383 4 Bolt $1100


now tlel me those prices are bad and i'll leave you alone but just check it out. They hare pretty cool. right now they havea full 350 Short Block already remanufactured for $349. cant beat that.

 

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well let me do a little consumer report lookups for you

 

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the difference is

As i think you meant assembly kits- thats where they give you the parts and you put it together yourself which saves you money.

Short blocks should be remanufactured

Assembled Engies i think are Rebuilt

 

Also from what i can see nobody has complained about their products. But nobody has ever put in a review. All i can come up with is that some racers get their engines form them. I dunno though.

 

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Balancing an engine is like balancing your tires.

If they are not balanced Performance will be severly limited.

 

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Thanks for the replies guys.
Eagle ESP 3-D .... Okay
Larry's Performance .... Bookmark that .

Have a good weekend

 

I'm thinking that a remanufactured engine is brought back to original specs meaning that they dont bore it out they keep it the same. They dont bore out anything. When yuo bore out a 350 .030 over its now technically a 355. SO there fore a remanufactured 350 would stay a 350.