Couldn't find it on ARP's site... Should I use "hardcore" locking compound on block threads (like thread cemment)? Or rather "ordinary" one, which makes dismantling possible? Thanks

 

I would suggest using something that you can take back apart, in case you ever need to do so.

 

red loctite would be my choice

 

Thank you RB and ede; just one more question - which keyway do we use in stock L98 crank? When I look in Summit I see there're two types for SBC: long and short style. Looking at my crankshaft, I say I need two of the short design, right?

 

here's the picture:

 

i think they're what would be called short style. they would look more like part of a circle the other, and wrong kind, are enlongated and don't look like they could be part of a circle.

 

Yes, that crank is set up for 2 short ones.

Some cranks have the one long slot, some have 2 short slots. You can always use 2 short keys, they will fit into either a long slot or 2 short ones. So I only keep the short ones on hand.

 

Ok, two short keys added to the basket

 

Don't you have to align bore after installing studs? Just making sure...

 

No; no more than you have to align-bore after you put in the bolts, if you use bolts.

 

The safe answer is YES! The studs pull the caps down much tighter than the bolts. The metal around the studs will distorte differently than with bolts. The engine will still turn over normally in some cases but usually, you will not have a free turning crankshaft. If you don't, when the engine starts, it will warm the materials momentarilly and wipe a bearing because correct tolerances are breeched. Some people just go by the spin and torque wrench test. If it take more than 20 ft/lbs to spin the crank then it should be honed. When building a motor the machine works is the place that you dont want to short change. It could be major consequences in the end and people would shift blame to the machinist or engine builder. If these are ARP Studs they recommend that the block be align honed. So it's totally up to you but I would not take a chance on failure of the bottom end to save a $150.00. It will cost more the second time around. As the old saying goes "we never have enough time or money to do it right the first time. but we have enough money and time to do it right the next time.
Also remember ARP recommend two different torque specification for the type of lube or oil you are using, so you might want to check into this.
Read This:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/produ...ks/how_to.html

 

The "safe" answer to every "Should I..." question is always "Yes!" We love to spend other people's money, don't we.

In reality, the clamping force produced by studs is no different from that produced by bolts. It's still a threaded fastener, with a torque spec designed to apply the correct clamping load to the parts. No more, and no less than any other fastener's clamping load should apply to the same parts. The parts themselves determine the correct clamping force to be applied, not the fasteners.

20 ft-lbs to spin a crank is ridiculous. IMHO if it takes more than about 2 inch-pounds to spin a crank, then it needs something; either the crank straightened, or the block align-honed. An even better test is to measure the torque required to turn the crank in the mains with the fastener torque at 60% or so of its final value, and again when fully tightened; the torque should be less after tightening.

I'm accustomed to build motors where I grab the crank snout with just my bare hand, and just spin it as fast as I can (which is obviously not real fast), and count the seconds while it coasts down. It should take at least 2 seconds.

 

Well I guess you know better than ARP about having the block align hone, for some strange reason they recommend that. Maybe its to spend other money Check the link in my previous post. I would rather have it aligned hone then the free hand spin in 2 sec thats "Retarded" IMO. Well if your hands have been calibrated I would say ok as long as the stop watch is calibrated too. :hail: