Oil Question
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 97
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From: Central Florida
Car: 1984 Mint Z28 H.O.
Engine: 305 H.O
Transmission: 4 Speed Auto =| gettin megashifter
Oil Question
well 2 questions actualy, first i was told that using synthetic oil stops the car from smoking, true? and also what kind of oil should i use in my 305 HO with 280,000 miles in florida? should i use the 20w-50 stuff?
I would try Valvoline Maxlife
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ....asp?product=7
and Slick 50® Engine Treatment For High Mileage Vehicles
http://www.slick50.com/index.htm
but it may not help much.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ....asp?product=7
and Slick 50® Engine Treatment For High Mileage Vehicles
http://www.slick50.com/index.htm
but it may not help much.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
There is only one situation I can think of where synthetic could help oil burning - stuck, gummed up oil control rings that the synthetic desolves and frees up. Of course, if that's the case, the engine probably has a bunch more oil consumption source issues.
The typical small block Chevy smoke situtation is blue smoke at start-up, caused by valve stem seals. They typically have gotten hard and cracked, and no additive or "high mileage formula" is going to fix that. Some synthetics (I say "some", because there is some real junk out there) will keep seals softer and therefore help them last longer, but that won't fix cracks from hardening.
If you want to stop the smoke, replace the valve stem seals. If the smoke occurs during normal operation, especially when under power, then that's piston rings, and no oil or oil additive is going to fix them (except the case noted above).
The typical small block Chevy smoke situtation is blue smoke at start-up, caused by valve stem seals. They typically have gotten hard and cracked, and no additive or "high mileage formula" is going to fix that. Some synthetics (I say "some", because there is some real junk out there) will keep seals softer and therefore help them last longer, but that won't fix cracks from hardening.
If you want to stop the smoke, replace the valve stem seals. If the smoke occurs during normal operation, especially when under power, then that's piston rings, and no oil or oil additive is going to fix them (except the case noted above).
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 97
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From: Central Florida
Car: 1984 Mint Z28 H.O.
Engine: 305 H.O
Transmission: 4 Speed Auto =| gettin megashifter
it dont
it doesnt actualy fix it, i guess when it burns it doesnt create smoke or somthing?
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Re: Oil Question
Originally posted by insayne
what kind of oil should i use in my 305 HO with 280,000 miles in florida? should i use the 20w-50 stuff?
what kind of oil should i use in my 305 HO with 280,000 miles in florida? should i use the 20w-50 stuff?
With those kinda miles on that engine assuming its never been rebuilt it probably needs to be rebuilt or replaced to stop it from smoking. You could try 20 50w it might help a little bit but at a minimum your probably going to need valve guide seals.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by joshwilson3
What type of valve seals are needed for the sbc? I am planning on replacing mine. And their are two kinds at autozone. I think one looks like an umbrella and the other is round. So I don't know which one I need.
What type of valve seals are needed for the sbc? I am planning on replacing mine. And their are two kinds at autozone. I think one looks like an umbrella and the other is round. So I don't know which one I need.
Or both. The round one is the stock type, and goes under the keepers. The umbrella go over the stem & guide itself. Doesn't hurt anything to put new stock types in when installing the umbrella type.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Well, if given a choice I'd go with the positive type. I got some positive seals that didn't require guide machining several years ago, but haven't been able to locate them lately. For a quick on-the-engine fix, the umbrella would be better than just the stock o-ring type.
FWIW, on the 396, I went from umbrella to positive when I did the porting last spring. Oil consumption disappeared, and this in an engine that is used primarily for racing.
FWIW, on the 396, I went from umbrella to positive when I did the porting last spring. Oil consumption disappeared, and this in an engine that is used primarily for racing.
Last edited by five7kid; Jan 27, 2004 at 10:02 AM.
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From: Upstate NY
Car: 85 Z28
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: 700-R4
Lucas oil stabilizer works really well for helping cars stop smoking, but it depends on how bad the car is smoking. Plus with the miles your car has, it probably needs to be rebuilt.
no. sorry i don't keep track od PNs but i've never had a problem finding positive seal. alot of heads i put them on have been machined for larger springs which also machines the guide to accept positive seals. if you can't find any that fit without machining the umbrella seals would be a great second choice. next set of seals i put on i may try tefelon seals from comp or crane, rb swears by them.
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