I cant remember exactly but some time ago I passed a magazine article where they took a stock 305 and put a 400sbc crank inside it. I heard that there is a kit on the market with all the right bearings required for this task. I also heard that the results were about 100hp!!!
My question is if anyone has heard more about this or possibly done it themselves. If so , what is involved in creating the 337stroker?

 

Here is a 305 to a 340 stroker kit
http://www.speedomotive.com/sbc_305_...oker_crank.htm

Sounds good and isn't too much money don't know if the company or the idea is solid though

 

The company is called powerhouse and they sell the complete kit for $599.00. You also need an externally balanced 400 balancer and flexplate. The kit comes with the 400 style crank, KB pistons, Rings, CR1 rods, bearings, and gasket set. I am planning on building my 4-bolt main 305 in my chevy van to a 334 stroker. More low end torque than a 350, cost less, unique, and run just as long if not longer. For those not believing that a 334 can out grunt a 350 down low consider that it has a 1/4 longer stroke. That = more torque + more cubic inches=more torque. You wouldn't go at headbolts with a 6" long ratchet. You need a long breaker bar. Same thing as a stroker. The end result is 10:1 compression with 58 cc heads. Add some reworked "601 heads (215CFM @ .425 intake, 155cfm @ .45" exhaust, 28 in/H20 pressure drop, starts with 72 cfm @ .10" intake, 47 cfm @ .10", vortec 350s are only 61 & 47cfm @ the same lift), federal mogul CS1014R cam(204* & 214* @ .050", .423" & .443" lift), dual exhaust out of the older 70s Z/28 style manifolds, performer RPM intake, 795 CFM non cc quadrajet and I get this from desktop dyno.

RPM HP TQ
2000 128 337
2500 165 346
3000 206 361
3500 240 360
4000 266 350
4500 287 335
5000 292 307
5500 281 268

Add 1 5/8" X 3" Headers

RPM HP TQ
2000 139 365
2500 177 371
3000 216 377
3500 255 382
4000 289 379
4500 316 368
5000 326 342
5500 317 302

See why I am so intrested in such a stock engine. Nobody would give it a second thought when they see 5.0 cast in the rear of the block until after I blew them off the road. 10:1 is not too much for pump gas on cast iorn heads. I am running 9.54:1 on 87 octane with 32* total advance and it runs great with no ping.

 

I'm going to bring this back because I don't think the whole story is contained within.

1st, who's going to see "5.0" cast at the back of the block? Short answer: "Nobody." Long answer, "So what?"

For the same or less money than it will take to build a 334 (or 335, or 340, or whatever you want to call a stroked 305) you could build a 383. That includes buying the 350 block. The 334 kit costs more than a 383 kit because of volume. And, when you're all done, "More low end torque than a 334, cost less, tons more power because the valves aren't shrouded by tiny cylinder bores, and run just as long if not longer."

Displaying DD data as if quantitative is bench racing at its worst.

But for the sake of arguement, here's what it says with my mods:

RPM Torque HP
2000 284 108
2500 299 142
3000 310 177
3500 331 221
4000 346 264
4500 355 304
5000 352 335
5500 338 354
6000 317 362
6500 289 357

(the torque & HP columns are reversed from yours, but I'm not going to bother editing my cut & paste...)

Using other formula applied to real-world dragstrip numbers, I come up with 250 RWHP. I'd like to be able to post real dyno numbers, but haven't had proper motivation to get that done to date.

 

365 ft lbs @ 2000 rpm
342 ft lbs @ 5000
Hmmmm... !
You wouldn't need a Hi stall converter with that combo.

 

So... you have a 305 that puts out 145 or 160 or even 200 HP; and you add 30 CI, and you get 100 extra HP. So that means that each of the CIs that were there were producing some .5 or .6 or .7 HP per CI, but those extra 30 CIs are producing over 3 HP per CI. Does this pass the smell test??

Go back and re-read the fine print. What they really did was to put heads, cam, intake, and misc other bolt-on stuff onto this motor, and oh by the way, added the stroker kit too; and got 100 HP out of the whole deal. I'd bet at least 80 of those 100 HP came from the other stuff, that is, they would have got 80 or more added HP with a stock crank. In any case, there's no way you're going to stick that kit in your motor and instantly magically install 100 HP.

The notion that one of those motors will produce more torque than a 350 is equally ridiculous. Sure it has a longer "lever arm", since the stroke is longer than the 350's; but it also has less piston area. Remember, the torque applied to the crank is equal to: the cylinder pressure, in psi; times the bore area, in sq ft (those 2 numbers multiplied together will give you the force the piston exerts trying to go down); times the stroke in feet. That, minus frictional and other losses, will give you the engine's torque output. So, if you take 2 engines of unequal displacement, the only 2 ways to get the smaller one to out-torque the larger, are to get more cyl pressure by either using a higher CR, or by filling the cyl more completely with mixture.

What you will get by using a small bore long-stroke combo, is a peak torque at a slightly lower RPM than the large-bore shorter-stroke combo. You won't get more torque, you'll merely get it sooner.... at the expense of higher-RPM performance. In other words, you'll bias the motor's behavior toward tractor-motor characteristics, and away from race-car characteristics. Hmmmm.....

This whole subject of stroking a 305 comes up every now and then on these boards. There's like one guy that's actually done it, and his car appears to run OK, nothing really earth-shaking, but is slower than an otherwise equal 350 is. This post usually ends up being an argument between the actual motor builders on the site, and the magazine readers with no building experience; it shouldn't be too hard to figure out who to pay more attention to. I think you'll see that no one with a truly fast car is running that. I think you'll also see that you can go to the junkyard and buy a 350 block, and rebuild it with standard 350 parts, and come up with more power for far less money than that other thing. It doesn't pass the basic hot-rodding criterion of getting the most for your money.

 

Well said gentleman.

 

I want torque down as low as possible and I don't want to go to a 350 or 383 so I am building a 329. To each his own!! But I have a 400 stroke crank with 350 mains and the short 400 rods that are going in my 305. By the way with 1.84 valves the 305 is not that shrouded. It flows plenty of CFM. The reason I am staying 305 is that with 150,000 miles the 305s bore still has a cross hatch in it and it is a KNOWN originol engine. I have seen a 350 with far less miles and guess what NO crosshatch at all.

The little 305 already has a 5,000 lbs chevy van in the 15s with cast iorn manifolds both intake and exhaust and no power adder other than gasket matched bowl ported heads and a RV Cam. It still has the stock trans that shifts @ 4400 and 1500 rpm stall too.

 

if you want torque..build a 400sb...

 

To me a stroked 305 could possibly be an excellent choice for a truck or van, if you were looking for more power than a stocker and wanted to focus on the low end of the power band. Especially if fuel economy is a consideration.
Even with a stock 350 there's a noticable torque increase as the rpms climb, until you reach 4000 or so.
For even more grunt, get a set of 1-1/2" long tube headers and use some of those 4 into 2 into 1 collectors.
It seems like the performer rpm would defeat the whole purpose of that combo tho.
Use a truck roller cam, and top it off with some vortec heads and a TPI, it might be kind of impressive...
It would be like a mini 383 that gives you 20mpg on the hwy.

 

This doesnt add up, you have the crank, you have the rods, you have heads, you have everything except the block and pistons. 350 blocks can be had for $100. Even if it needs boring thats another $100. Pistons $100-150.

All the other costs im leaving out (timing chain, extra machine work, bearings, gaskets etc..) will also come with the cost of a 305/305 stroker rebuild.

If i could add 53ci for $300 more, I would do it in an instant!!! Or save a little longer if I had too. Just making sure your looking at it from all angles. Better to know now than to find out when its too late.

 

The block is in my van right now. I also have a set of regular 305 flat top pistons for it too. You can use regular 305 type pistons if you use the 400s short 5.565" rods. (Which also increases torque due to extreme rod angles but limits RPM potential at the same time) The 200,000 mile 305 block doesn't need to be bored either. The factory cross hatch is still there and it doesn't have a wear ridge. I didn't mean performer RPM for me. I am going to run the factory cast intake for torque. Thorly Tri Y Headers and an X-pipe are in the future too. The 329 is going in my G20 chevy van, I want 20 mpg, and I want low-end torque. The 305 in there now pulls it great so I figure the 329 will pull it better. I ocassionally pull a 5,000 lbs trailer and it pulls it fine @ 60-65 mph. Its 4- bolt main and high nickel so I know it is going to be able to stand up to the stresses

I want to know where you can get a 350 block for $100. The core for them is higher than that around here. Maybe up north but not in North Texas.

Also there are places in this country where they check casting numbers when your vehicle is inspected. Fortunately not here
but in other places they do.

Also I know that in the magazine article changes were made other than stroking, but stroking alone should add 30-40 ft/lbs and 15 or so horsepower due to the extra cubic inches and greater mechanical advantage.

 

Im sure there are block in your area, just a 5 second look in this sites classified found this in the VERY 1st one I looked in:

-350 block, crank, rods, balancer. 4 bolt main with 2 piece rear main seal. Also throw in a free 305 so u have an extra crank and rods plus timing cover and oil pan for the 350. $100

https://www.thirdgen.org/classifieds...tgo?adid=37344

More questions. You have a 305 4 bolt? You are running headers and an X pipe but totally leaving out the intake side??

Also, my L98 gets 23mpg even with 148,000 miles on it. Dont leave out the 350 because of MPG.

Edit: in the 3rd one I looked in:

im selling my roller 350 block 2 bolt main. is bored .30 over. just need to get it dipped and put ur parts on it. i need it gone will sell for $50 bucks prefer pickup or will meet in reasonable distance.


https://www.thirdgen.org/classifieds...tgo?adid=35879

 

I have noticed that bare blocks with no machine work done are going for $300-400.

Yes I have a 305 with 4 bolt main caps.

You're getting only 23 mpg with a fuel injected 350. My carbed 305 in my VAN gets 18. I am hoping I can get 20 out of it soon.

Finally why go 350?? I don't need one. I have an almost new goodwrench 350 crate in my 1980 chevy pickup (It hasn't been driven in 3 years). If I needed a 350 I would use that one. I am keeping my 305 though.

 

Does your 305 have stock 4-bolt caps?

 

I haven't seen it, but apparently some truck/van 305's had 4-bolt mains from the factory. It's a machining difference, not a casting difference.

But, back to the original question: Matt appears to be interested in performance, not gas mileage (at least that's not a primary concern), horse power not torque. If that's the case, and performance gained per dollar spent motivates you more than the casting # on the block that nobody can see, forget stroking the 305 and get a 350.