already been ?'s, but I'll ask specific question.
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
already been ?'s, but I'll ask specific question.
When I get home today in a few hrs, I want to start setting my rockers in place. Ive read some threads on setting them but dont know how to start.
say if I start in the drivers side, what do I do, just roll the motor till #1 push rods are both up or down? once they are either then I can put the rockers on and do the tighten til rod stops method...
I need to know how to get the paticular cylinder ready for rockers.....I dont know the differnce between exhaust and intake so can I just do them both at the same time?
Im probably not makin any sense but I hope you guys understand..
thanks!
say if I start in the drivers side, what do I do, just roll the motor till #1 push rods are both up or down? once they are either then I can put the rockers on and do the tighten til rod stops method...
I need to know how to get the paticular cylinder ready for rockers.....I dont know the differnce between exhaust and intake so can I just do them both at the same time?
Im probably not makin any sense but I hope you guys understand..
thanks!
you want the engien on the compression stroke, both valves closed and tighten the nut untill you can no longer spin the push rod and add 1/2 turn or so. you have to watch the lifter doesn't start spinning. you can measure from the top of the stud to the top of the nut and replicate the measurement when you reassemble, but sounds like it's too late for that. most if not all SBCs i've seen have around .200 to .230 from the top of the stud to the top of the nut.
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
So I need to roll the engine till both push rods are up or down? Im going to start on #1
too late for what?
When I get home I just want to be able to go out to the car roll the engine to a specific location and then start with the rockers...Sorry if it sounds like I dont know what Im doing but I dont when it comes to this...
too late for what?
When I get home I just want to be able to go out to the car roll the engine to a specific location and then start with the rockers...Sorry if it sounds like I dont know what Im doing but I dont when it comes to this...
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From: Chasing Electrons
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Engine: check
Transmission: check
I do the adjustment a little different. I does work though. I don't use the 'spin the pushrod' either as it is too difficult to tell when the slack is taken up. I rock the tip of the rocker arm up and down to check the play.
Begin with all of the rockers loose. Start at the front of one head and gently move the tip of the first rocker up and down. As you do this tighten the adjusting nut as required to eliminate any up/down play.
Once there is no play go to the next rocker. Do all sixteen rockers this way. Now rotate the engine about 90 degrees (1/4 turn).
Do the gently move the tip of the first rocker and if there is any play slowly tighten the adjuster until the play is gone. Do all sixteen rockers.
Turn the engine about 90 degrees (1/4 turn) and repeat as before, again doing all sixteen rockers.
Keep turning the engine about 90 degrees and checking/adjusting the rockers until none of them have any play. If you are good, 2 full turns will do it. I like to do 4 full turns to double check. It doesn't need to be full 90 degree turns either. Smaller 60 degree turns will also work.
Once all rockers are to the point of no play, turn each one 1/2 turn to set the preload. This 1/2 turn may vary according to the lifter manufactureres spec.
I like to use this method as it takes very little thinking: no keeping track of which ones to do, no keeping track of exactly 90 degreee crank rotations. You can just do it and keep going.
RBob.
Begin with all of the rockers loose. Start at the front of one head and gently move the tip of the first rocker up and down. As you do this tighten the adjusting nut as required to eliminate any up/down play.
Once there is no play go to the next rocker. Do all sixteen rockers this way. Now rotate the engine about 90 degrees (1/4 turn).
Do the gently move the tip of the first rocker and if there is any play slowly tighten the adjuster until the play is gone. Do all sixteen rockers.
Turn the engine about 90 degrees (1/4 turn) and repeat as before, again doing all sixteen rockers.
Keep turning the engine about 90 degrees and checking/adjusting the rockers until none of them have any play. If you are good, 2 full turns will do it. I like to do 4 full turns to double check. It doesn't need to be full 90 degree turns either. Smaller 60 degree turns will also work.
Once all rockers are to the point of no play, turn each one 1/2 turn to set the preload. This 1/2 turn may vary according to the lifter manufactureres spec.
I like to use this method as it takes very little thinking: no keeping track of which ones to do, no keeping track of exactly 90 degreee crank rotations. You can just do it and keep going.
RBob.
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
compression stroke, vavles closed would make the push rods be all the way down?
once I have that, then I can put the rockers on and tighten to what you guys say? then just roll the engine to the next cylinder and wait till those push rods are all the way down and so forth?
once I have that, then I can put the rockers on and tighten to what you guys say? then just roll the engine to the next cylinder and wait till those push rods are all the way down and so forth?
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Originally posted by Wishmaster's87IROC
compression stroke, vavles closed would make the push rods be all the way down?
once I have that, then I can put the rockers on and tighten to what you guys say? then just roll the engine to the next cylinder and wait till those push rods are all the way down and so forth?
compression stroke, vavles closed would make the push rods be all the way down?
once I have that, then I can put the rockers on and tighten to what you guys say? then just roll the engine to the next cylinder and wait till those push rods are all the way down and so forth?
RBob.
Here's an easier way that only requires you to rotate the engine twice. First find TDC on the #1 cylinder with #1 firing. Then you can adjust the 1,3,4,8 exhaust valves and the 1,2,5,7 intake valves. Then just rotate the engine exactly once over so that it's firing at #6. Then adjust 2,5,6,7 exhaust valves and the 3,4,6,8 intake valves.
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
someone told me that you HAVE to adjust these rockers while the engine is running to get them correct. Theres now way around it but im going with what you guys say...
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
Originally posted by RBob
I do the adjustment a little different. I does work though. I don't use the 'spin the pushrod' either as it is too difficult to tell when the slack is taken up. I rock the tip of the rocker arm up and down to check the play.
Begin with all of the rockers loose. Start at the front of one head and gently move the tip of the first rocker up and down. As you do this tighten the adjusting nut as required to eliminate any up/down play.
Once there is no play go to the next rocker. Do all sixteen rockers this way. Now rotate the engine about 90 degrees (1/4 turn).
Do the gently move the tip of the first rocker and if there is any play slowly tighten the adjuster until the play is gone. Do all sixteen rockers.
Turn the engine about 90 degrees (1/4 turn) and repeat as before, again doing all sixteen rockers.
Keep turning the engine about 90 degrees and checking/adjusting the rockers until none of them have any play. If you are good, 2 full turns will do it. I like to do 4 full turns to double check. It doesn't need to be full 90 degree turns either. Smaller 60 degree turns will also work.
Once all rockers are to the point of no play, turn each one 1/2 turn to set the preload. This 1/2 turn may vary according to the lifter manufactureres spec.
I like to use this method as it takes very little thinking: no keeping track of which ones to do, no keeping track of exactly 90 degreee crank rotations. You can just do it and keep going.
RBob.
I do the adjustment a little different. I does work though. I don't use the 'spin the pushrod' either as it is too difficult to tell when the slack is taken up. I rock the tip of the rocker arm up and down to check the play.
Begin with all of the rockers loose. Start at the front of one head and gently move the tip of the first rocker up and down. As you do this tighten the adjusting nut as required to eliminate any up/down play.
Once there is no play go to the next rocker. Do all sixteen rockers this way. Now rotate the engine about 90 degrees (1/4 turn).
Do the gently move the tip of the first rocker and if there is any play slowly tighten the adjuster until the play is gone. Do all sixteen rockers.
Turn the engine about 90 degrees (1/4 turn) and repeat as before, again doing all sixteen rockers.
Keep turning the engine about 90 degrees and checking/adjusting the rockers until none of them have any play. If you are good, 2 full turns will do it. I like to do 4 full turns to double check. It doesn't need to be full 90 degree turns either. Smaller 60 degree turns will also work.
Once all rockers are to the point of no play, turn each one 1/2 turn to set the preload. This 1/2 turn may vary according to the lifter manufactureres spec.
I like to use this method as it takes very little thinking: no keeping track of which ones to do, no keeping track of exactly 90 degreee crank rotations. You can just do it and keep going.
RBob.
that seems like the easiest way to do it...I wont have to worry about if I got both valves in the closed position...but are you sure this way really works....Im sure you wouldnt steer a brotha wrong...
i did the firing order method with both valves closed. that was my first time setting valve lash. car started right up without any noises/problems.
after about a couple days i did it with the engine running cuz i thought i hadn't adjusted 'em right the first time. turned out they were fine.
after about a couple days i did it with the engine running cuz i thought i hadn't adjusted 'em right the first time. turned out they were fine.
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Sophia, NC
Car: 2016 Camaro SS + 1986 Z28
Wassup wishmaster!!! Long time, eh?
RBob,
I'm curious about that method of yours too. That sounds pretty easy. I'm no pro by any means, but I've just never heard of that.
RBob,
I'm curious about that method of yours too. That sounds pretty easy. I'm no pro by any means, but I've just never heard of that.
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Abubaca
[B]Wassup wishmaster!!! Long time, eh?
wassup!!!!!!..............
im still screwing with this damn car...should be ready for turn key in a few days...I hope!...oh yeah with fire bottle in hand..no doubt!..lol
[B]Wassup wishmaster!!! Long time, eh?
wassup!!!!!!..............
im still screwing with this damn car...should be ready for turn key in a few days...I hope!...oh yeah with fire bottle in hand..no doubt!..lol
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From: Ohio
Car: 1985 Iroc-z
Engine: 355 sbc
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by Abubaca
Wassup wishmaster!!! Long time, eh?
RBob,
I'm curious about that method of yours too. That sounds pretty easy. I'm no pro by any means, but I've just never heard of that.
Wassup wishmaster!!! Long time, eh?
RBob,
I'm curious about that method of yours too. That sounds pretty easy. I'm no pro by any means, but I've just never heard of that.
Some people do adjust valves with the motor running... I laugh at that, its dangerous and silly in my eyes.. messy sometimes too
Last edited by hydric; Jan 30, 2004 at 07:38 PM.
Originally posted by hydric
Some people do adjust valves with the motor running... I laugh at that, its dangerous and silly in my eyes.. messy sometimes too
Some people do adjust valves with the motor running... I laugh at that, its dangerous and silly in my eyes.. messy sometimes too
i thought oil was gonna go all over the place but all i needed was just a rag laid over the headers. may not have needed to do all this but it was a learning experience.
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
ok I used both ways......as stated above. After doing it Rbob's way I then went and got them each cylinder when the push rods were all the way down...I guess I got them right....what will happen if they are to loose or to tight?
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
I use the jiggle the pushrod/rocker method as well. Gets pretty close. Try to get them all set as close as possible to eachother. If theyre too tight, the valve will pump up and stay open above a certain rpm or stay open all the time and not idle. My crate did this when i got it from the factory, sounded like a jet taking off above 2500 rpm. Too loose and theyll make noise and possibly break stuff. The best method IMHO is setting them with the engine idleing at operating temp (after theyve been set with the engine off). Gives the most consistant results. Be forwarned, though, saying its messy to do it this way is a real understatement. Place a large tarp or plastic drop cloth to catch the oil and eb quick about it. I get niagra falls of oil over the rear sides of the heads without the valve covers on.
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