not turning over
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 343
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From: Snellville, GA USA
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
not turning over
I know there have been a bunch of posts like this, but I need some help...
I posted this not long ago, but I got it running and it was ok for about 2 weeks. I have always had problems with my car not starting. I had a new starter installed, but that did not help. So, I ran a starter switch which worked fine for about two years. Now, I am having the same problem. The starter switch is working, since I tried touching the two wires together, but still nothing. I can hear the starter relay click, but not the solenoid. 2 weeks ago, I had this same problem, and out off frustration, just messing around, I just tried to tighten down the bolt that goes through the two brass looking rectangular tabs off of the starter/solenoid, since it was loose and sparking when my gf turned the ignition. As soon as I tightened the bolt it fired right up, and I didn't have any problem until yesterday. I now wonder if that was my problem at all. My car is at work and in a bad place to work on it, but I will have to, so is there any thing else I should check once I get under there?
Thanks for any help.
I posted this not long ago, but I got it running and it was ok for about 2 weeks. I have always had problems with my car not starting. I had a new starter installed, but that did not help. So, I ran a starter switch which worked fine for about two years. Now, I am having the same problem. The starter switch is working, since I tried touching the two wires together, but still nothing. I can hear the starter relay click, but not the solenoid. 2 weeks ago, I had this same problem, and out off frustration, just messing around, I just tried to tighten down the bolt that goes through the two brass looking rectangular tabs off of the starter/solenoid, since it was loose and sparking when my gf turned the ignition. As soon as I tightened the bolt it fired right up, and I didn't have any problem until yesterday. I now wonder if that was my problem at all. My car is at work and in a bad place to work on it, but I will have to, so is there any thing else I should check once I get under there?
Thanks for any help.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 11
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Check the solenoid, is the wire with the small lug on the "S" post or the "R" post.
I had a similar problem and found that the connection inside the starter solenoid was broken at the post. You might need a new starter solenoid. After re-reading your post, do you still have the VATS in your car or have you disabled it?
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!
I had a similar problem and found that the connection inside the starter solenoid was broken at the post. You might need a new starter solenoid. After re-reading your post, do you still have the VATS in your car or have you disabled it?
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by Trickster; Feb 6, 2004 at 07:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Snellville, GA USA
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
unless the guy before me disabled it, it is still there...the security light flashes and then turns off when I crank it up, if that means anything...is there some way to jump the starter just to get the car cranked so I can get it to my house and in my garage?
THanks again
THanks again
Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Gardendale, AL., USA
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Use a screwdriver to short between the S post and the 12 volt feed. That should bypass the solinoid and put 12 volts to the bendix and starter motor.
Not easy or fun, but should get you started as long as the starter motor itself is good..
BE CAREFUL! Make sure there are no fuel leaks in the area, as sparks WILL FLY!!!!
Not easy or fun, but should get you started as long as the starter motor itself is good..
BE CAREFUL! Make sure there are no fuel leaks in the area, as sparks WILL FLY!!!!
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