What is the max a 305 can be bored to. I've read that all small block chevys are the exact same block just some have less boring. SO does this mean my 305, can be turned into my dream 383? I'm tlaking about machineing the engien to get it the right size. I'm gonna get me an Eagle 383 stroker kit thats ballanced, and do it form there. You can get it from Summit for $1,100 ro something near there, max $1,200. But yeah can my 305 be bored to a 383 with a bunch of machining.



thanks,
shane

 

Nope... The external dimensions are the same on a SBC, but the insides differ from engine to engine.. A 305 has the same cylinder wall thickness as a 350 block, just a smaller bore... So you can bore it as much as you would a 350 block (agreed max of 0.060") which would get you a:

(stock bore is 3.736")

0.7854 * bore * bore * stroke * # of cyl = cid
0.7854 * 3.796 * 3.796 * 3.48 * 8 = 315 cid

 

No, it cannot.

A 305 starts out with a 3.736" bore. A 350 starts out with a 4.000" bore. A 305 can be bored safely .030", and occasionally as much as .060". The biggest you're going to be able to get it (7.796")is still nearly ¼" short of a 383, which requires 4.030" bore.

350 blocks are cheap and plentiful. Forget about some 305 and go get a 350 block and don't look back.

 

If you have a really good casting with no core shift, you might be able to safely bore to almost 3.80". While it's true that most SBC cases are essentially the same design, the cylinder sleeves are cast closer to the bore size than would allow for overboring by much more than 0.040-0.060". In other words, with a nominal 0.280" cylinder wall thickness, you cannot expect to be able to bore a cylinder that was designed to 3.736" to anything near 4", let alone the 4.030" needed to make a 383. If you could somehow safely bore 0.030" over, you could make almost 340 CI with the same 3.75" stroker crank. You might as well start with a 350.

 

well i guess that means i gotta go pick up that used ZZ4 w/ 40k miles on it for $450 then. Only thing wrong with it is that the recall on the piston rings only allowed a certain time for them to be replaced. But they waitied too long and they finally went bad. But a ZZ4 for $450 you cant beat in anyway.

Shane

 

I can bore the ZZ4 so a 383 correct? If yes, whats the max i can bore a ZZ4 to safely?

 

Oh yeah and can i use regular aluminum L98 heads on a ZZ4 bored out to the max?

I'm gonan do all this and then get me a MiniRam on this bad boy...... oh the power...... oh the speed...... My car will fly man......

 

wait no, screw getting that ZZ4 thats already reserved for me,

i'll get one of these things,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2459439756


if anybody wants the ZZ4, i'm not gonna be needing it anymore, just email TaCreatUSA@aol.com and ask for the $450 ZZ4 wioth bad piston rings, they'll sell to to ya.

 

"Bore to the Maximum" is something that should NEVER EVER come out of anyones mouth, when dealing with a factory standard bore block.

Understand this. Take your typical 350 block. You run it from the factory, say 125k miles. If the block only needs a .020 cleanup on the bore, do that. Drive it another 100k miles. Then bore it .040 next 100k miles and then .060 the next 100k!

When you rebuild it you automatically bore it .060 over which is typically the max safe overbore. You have just waisted at least 2 motors! Although its a popular belief that "boring" makes HP, it doesnt, well not noticable.

When people tell you they have a 350 bored .030 over, thats not supposed to be an upgrade/mod, its jsut saying they started with a good block.

 

You can stroke it to a 383 yes

Bore it....nope

 

ok whats the most i can stoke a ZZ4 or regular 350? I might start out with that ebay 383 then stoke it again to a 420 or so. That would be so much more horsepower its not even funny.

 

There ya go! 4" stroke is typically the biggest you can put in a sbc. A .030 over 350 becomes a 408ci. Is it worth it? I dont thinks so.

Go with the tried and true 383 with the 3.75 stroke like everyone else has, and its almost as inexpencive as a 350 anymore!

Is your 305 the fastest car youve owned?

 

Man you really need to do some research on this stuff. Some of these questions are unbelievable. Buy a book or something and start reading up on the small block chevy, then figure out what you want for an engine and come up with a plan on how to build it.

 

Well if i get that 383, Get my miniram, with vortec heads i can be putting, what..... 530HP @6000 and 644 ft/lbs @4750 at that crank man.

With just regular heads and a 383 miniram i can get me a 463HP @ 6000 and 437 ft/lbs @4750.


A 420, with miniram, vortec heads will be putting 763 HP @ 6500 and 647 ft/lbs @ 5750.


I was looking at top fuel draggracing times, they can do 4.5s man. I wanna get atleast 10 with my new engine, and still be streetable also. I want major horsepower. (by streetable i mean better than the 16MPG i get highway right now)


shane

 

I didn't own it but my step-dad had a 97 Trans Am Ram Air LT4 Custom ordered from GM. It had the corvette LT4 and Corvette Manual Tranny. That thing could fly like you could not believe man.

This is my first car.


shane

 

I'd suggest getting a book like "John Lingenfelter on Modifying Small-Block Chevy Engines" or another similar informational book as others have suggested..

As Kirk said in Star Trek II, "You've got to know why things work on a starship."

 

Dont we all!! I think you are setting your hopes pretty high. Seriously a low 13 sec car would be great, but 10s is VERY expencive. Its not all about power when you start going that fast. Youll have to learn to burn your own chips, drop ~$5000-10,000 just in the motor/trans. Then you do a $1000-1500 exhaust.

By now your transmission is dying quickly. $~1500 after its all said and done to rebuilt it to hold high HP. So lets say you have your "perfect motor", tons of HP. Guess what, now you cant hook it up, now yor all over the Sphon website spending $1000+ along with newdrag radials/slicks ~$300-500. I almost forgot, you have to have a roll cage now ~$500+ installation

see how it all adds up?

 

Sweet S10 is right. 10's is a huge goal that takes a finacial commitment to make everything on your car up to par. Also you are going to need at least 600 to the wheels in a 3200lb car to accomplish that feat. That number varies with set-up but it gives you an idea of what you would have to make to run that time. You will not make 600 to the wheels with just motor alone. That is unless you have a 720hp 427 LS1 ZL1 car or some other crazy BB set-up.

 

well what is a good time? I wanna be able to ride with most corvettes man. What kinda times do they hold? I wanna atleast be able to woop the **** outta a 2002 Trans Am WS6 or Camaro SS. I mean make them feel sorry for even trying. I dont wanna be a close race, maybe 3 carlengths will be fine.

Would it be a nice setup if i ha a 383 Vortec MiniRam? Would that allow me to ride with some high end cars(Camaro SS, Corvette LS1/LT1)? I also want it to still be completely streetable. Meaning better than 16MPG highway that i get right now. I dont think that would be hard to accomplish either with the miniram and programmed PROM.


Shane

 

Low 12's will accomplish that feat. A nicley built 350 or 383 with the right combo of parts will be able to achive your goal. You will also need a car that is up to par though. meaning suspension, tires, fuel etc etc... An fully tuned multi port set-up will give you better gas mileage and drivability than the same set-up with carb. You should still be able to kncok down 20mpg. There are many 4th gen guys with heads and cammed LS1/LT1 combos that still get 25mpg on the highway.

 

Also 700R4 tranny rebuilds arn't very expesive; $105.95 for complete rebuild.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/st...build_kits.htm

Thats all i would need correct? Maybe a new stock torwue converter, that way i can keep fuel economy. If i get a high RPM torque converter my gas mileage goes to ****, and you know it.

Then an installation video is only $28. That way i can do it myself.

Also nothing more than some regular Z rated tires is all i need. Currently i have some Cooper Zeon 2XS Z rated tires and they are perfecdt, good tration and everthing.

I got one more question though, if i get a new set of SLP 4th gen Firehawk Rims, will they break or be useless with this much power? I love skinny five spoke rims and i dont appreciate the Drag Racing rims that you cant see through.


Shane

 

You will not break rims. If anything the spacers that you will use to use 4th gen wheels could damage wheel studs. Even that isn't a big deal. You will need a toruq converter and a tranny rebuild. You will be making around 350hp to the wheels and you need everything to be up to par. You may also start thinking about a beefier rear.

 

Yes i'm gonna be getting a 4th gen rear eventually, maybe a corvette rear end. That way i wont need the spacers.

Also, will that rebuild kit i showed be enough for a full tranny rebuild? Maybe also a new carbon fiber or aluminum driveshaft. But what did you mean up to par? What will i need. i'm gonna be getting TPiS Subframe connectors, braces and everything. I wanna re build the front suspension also. My car will be ripping all them 4th gens apart.

Also what else would you reccomend to do?

shane

 

Will a corvette rear end, with indipendent suspension work on my rear end? i'd like to have that thing becuase i've heard that it creates a real nice ride. Also it looks nice and wont ned to be rebuilt like the front end will be.

thanks,
Shane

 

No offense or anything intended, but I think your eyes are hungrier than your stomach... You need to do a lot more research before you purchase anything.. You seem to be lacking a lot of basic knowledge.. I'd start by doing all of the maintenance items on your car first so you can get an understanding of how all of the components function in a car... Then, once you have read many books and have plenty of experience in maintaining and repairing your current platform, you will be able to put together a logical combination that will work together properly...

 

kid i think i'd wait untill i was out of high school before i started to think about modding my car. maybe do more reading and less talking wouldn't be a bad idea either.

 

You are learning and you ask good questions but you really need to do a little searching. You will see that the 4th gen rears are the same exact pieces that are found in 3rd gens minus a few minute details. Same goes for practically every suspension piece minus the different front set-ups. To implement a corvette IRS would cost more than a used vette would be to start out with. I would try to learn everything about your car and then you will know what you can and can't do to it. Learn as much about 4th gens as well and you will see what makes them tick as well. By "up to par" I mean you have to have the suspension to plant the power, fuel system to feed the power, tranny to transmit the power and the list goes on. The car only works as good as its weakest part.

 

alrighty then, can i stroke my 305 to a 383? I was just reading everything again and found out the word i meant to use was stoke instead of bore. Can i stroek my 305 to a 383 just the same as the 350 could bore to it?

Might be a bit cheaper then buying a completely new engine ya know.

shane

 

alrighty then, can i stroke my 305 to a 383? I was just reading everything again and found out the word i meant to use was stoke instead of bore. Can i stroek my 305 to a 383 just the same as the 350 could bore to it?

Might be a bit cheaper then buying a completely new engine ya know.

shane

 

No.

See the very first 2 replies in this whole thread.

It is not cheaper to do anything to increase the size of a 305 than it is to buy a 350.

 

thats what i'll do then. Sell my 305 for $300 bucks and never look back.
thanks again,
shane

 

Good luck!!

Other people can't even give theirs away. Hell I've had to pay people to come out and haul 305s off. I hope your sales skills are better than mine.

 

Well some more small questions,

If I get this eBay 383 seen here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33615

For starters I’ll be able to put my TPI intake on it until I get the extra cash for the MiniRam correct?

Also, if the block isn't a roller camshaft, I can convert it to roller correct with roller timing chain set, and that sort of stuff?

Also, if I do get this engine I will be rebuilding the tranny, I know it needs it. But that rebuilt kit I posted before; will it do the job of fully rebuilding the tranny of will I need to buy new gears and such?

Tranny rebuild here,
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/st...build_kits.htm

What else would you guys recommend I do while in the process of this major swap? I'm under not much of a budget but try to keep the total cost down. I don’t need unnecessary items. But sub frame connectors I will be getting, don’t know about rear end yet, I thought a 4th gen rear end was much better then the one I got do don’t know what I will do.


Thanks,
Shane

 

Wel when you know a lot of pot heads who got money to burn, and dont know **** about engines a 305 can be sold easily for $400. Someones already offered me $800 for the entire TPI setup i got.


Shane

 

Had to pay someone to haul away your 305???? If I had been in the area I would have just come and taken it off your hands probably given you money to go eat dinner. Sorry but you got ripped on that one. Seriously though if the 305 runs good, isn't blowing smoke, burning oil, knocking, etc. Why pull it. I've got a chevy van in the 15s with a 305 small block complete with cast iorn exhaust manifolds. An engine is an engine. Yeah a 350 has 45 more cubes but a 400 has 50 more than a 350 and 95 more than a 305. The 305 is also 40 cubes bigger than the first small blocks. Point is I am sticking with my 305s for longevity and fuel economy and the fact they are already under the hood. 350s cost alot in northern Texas and you won't find me using one. In fact I have one of those 350 crates in a 1980 chevy pickup the thing is only AS fast as the stock 305 was and gets about 5 mpg less. I am about to rering the van engine @ 200,000 miles. The cylinder bore @ 150,000 still had the crosshatch in the bore. It still does. Point is I like 305s and they are worth keeping.

 

Anyway, you need to spend your budget on reading materials instead of performance parts catalogs and crap... I think you are being a little nieve about this kind of project... You will just end up spending a lot of money and more than likely destroying it if you attempt it at this point...

 

hey mr, if that was a joke about me then cut it out. to them a v8 is a v8. They couldn't imaging a v6 beating a v8 in any race. Pot heads are stupid man, and when you know a lot of em, you'd be able to tell. Good thing though, i've never done one illegal sustance in my entire life, including legal natural herbs.

 

All I'm trying to say is that at one point I was at a stage similar to yours.. You can't think about changing a SINGLE thing on your car until you understand how EVERYTHING works.. Until then you are probably just going to waste money on a mismatched setup and incompatible parts.. I know this because I've been there.. Now I've learned a lot due to experience and [here's the plug] the other knowledgable members of this board..

Don't try to be the fastest thing on the planet right now (because you won't be anyway)... Focus on understanding your car and becoming knowledgable about the principles of its operation...

 

Yeah man, Even my car gets 330HP at the wheels from my 350. And my car weighs 3250. With me in it. And that kinda horse doesn't pull the car like you would think. A buddy of mine just sold his 350/350 Turbo to a friend for $250. Thats cdn money. Even helped him install it in his S10. So dont plan on getting too much funds from the old engine. Not much differs from the 305-350 parts and price range. Just go with the 350. Mine has had a small stroke increase, and has the standard rebuild with the 30 over bore.

Just my $0.02

p.s. Nothing scares the imports away faster than a HUGE cam. Just reving that baby makes the whole car shake, You just GOTTA love that
I bought my V8 for the sound, I kinda forgot about the power part until I was done

 

About the V6 beating a V8. A guy on the Island has a Daytona.. 2.2 Litre. Twin Turbo, Lots of mods, runs 10's. That thing would kick my *** any day.. and guess what.. 4 Cyl..

You never see it comming, You never know whats under the hood man. Pick ur races carefully

 

If you really have the cash, and don't feel like learning what needs to be learned, do what 1991 Z28 and flyinlow92rs did, send your car off to a performance place, drop like 10-12k to get it all done for you.

 

Or just sell your car and buy one that's already done from somebody else...

 

Wanna put money on that?

 

BTW, if you're asking if you can "bore" a 305 to a 383 there is NO WAY IN HELL you're rebuilding a 700r4 by yourself while watching a video...

 

LMAO at this whole thread!

1) No, you cannot bore/stroke a 305 to anything close to 383 (those are cubic inches BTW...).
2) I doubt you could sell a 305 for anything more than change for coffee. FWIW, I sold a very stout 350 shortblock for only $150 not too long ago.

 

Let this thread RIP... Oh, and I second fly89gta; you have no chance at rebuilding a 700r4 or even reclutching it for that matter...

 

well tell you what, my friend 8-ball already told me hed pay $500 for my entire 305 TPI setup. The ECM and everything. So i got that stuff covered. The thing is i am wondering if i should keep my 700R4, or when i get my stroked LT1 shuld i use its tranny. Anyways he'd said hed pay $500 without the tranny, so there. Also if ya wanna know, hes got a 88 Impala, not SS.


thanks,
shane

 

i'm done and so is this thread