'87 5.0 TPI

No start and no fuel pump hum when key is moved to on position.
Before I jump into this, what exactly are ALL the possibilities, THX.

Bill E.

 

Fuel pump relay or fuel pump.

Pray its' the relay!!!!!

 

Well lets see if I can uncover some possibilities.

I would say check the Fuel Pump Relay, they tend to go out from time to time I believe it's on the firewall somewhere, not completely sure where. Maybe someone else can tell you exactly where it is.

It would also make sense to find the inline fuse and check it, as it may have blown for some reason. I am not sure where it resides either, although I have heard it's somewhere near the battery, either in the fender, or infront of the battery.

I am not completely sure of the Oil Pressure sensor on the bottom of the block by your oil filter... I believe it also has something to do with the fuel pump.

Hope someone can clue us both in to locations and info on the oil pressure sensor, but I hope I did offer some help.

 

Fuel pump relay is in the cluster on the drivers' side at the top of the firewall. Open the hood and have someone turn the key to the "on" position. You should hear a distinct "click" in that area....if not, the relay is bad.

If you hear the "click" but not the pump, it would be the fuse or the pump. I'm not sure where the fuse is, either.

I don't know where the oil pressure sender is, but....if the car starts after you crank it for a bit, thats' not your problem. At the same time, if it DOES start after you crank it for a bit, its' not the pump....or the fuse.

If it DOESN'T start after you crank it for a bit it could be the oil sender or the pump or the fuse.

I'll stop now, I'm confusing myself!!!!!!

 

While checking the fuel pump relay, I would suggest checking for any bare wires where they go into the connector. They are notorious for the insulation getting oil soaked and peeling back.

 

I think it actually matters whether it's a camaro or firebird with the TPI's, as far as the location of the battery, doesn't it? anyway, my fuse was right by the battery (very obvious once you look for it.. never really noticed it otherwise) on the passenger side.. not sure if the location of the battery matters in this case..

also, with the relay, if I remember correctly, there's another relay right next to the FP relay which can be used.. I might be wrong.. if I'm right though, it'll make a good "tester" relay..

if the fuse and relay are both fine... hmm, nevermind.. I was gonna say see if you see fuel, but it's TPI and you can't see it. but make sure your ignition wires are all plugged in... don't know how they would randomly come unplugged, but .. that's another cause for the engine turning but not starting..

also, when I had my fuel pump replaced, I took it to a shop (which I'll never do again) and they burned out my starter trying to get the car to NOT start to diagnose the problem, which I told them from the start was the fuel pump anyway.. (the FP managed to work again for a while at the shop) ... so don't let them rip you off like they did me..

 

Once the relay and fuse is verified to be ok, you should hook up a fuel pressure gage to the fuel line to confirm pressure or lack there of. Also, pop off the intake hose at the throttle body and squirt a shot of starter fluid. If it kicks over , that eliminates all the other possible causes.

 

Ummmm, TJQIROC,

Re-read his post.

JetMeck,
To check your fuel pump, connect 12VDC to terminal "G" of the ALDL with positive going to terminal "G" and negative to a good ground. If you get a good steady hum from the fuel pump, that is not the problem.

 

The reason I said what I said was because not much info was given. I know that when you first turn the key on, the pump hums for a few seconds then shuts off once the system is repressurized. On subsequent tries, you will here no hum. I am saying that if the relay and fuse is ok, maybe the pump has pressurized. You cannot assume anything when it comes to the fuel pump, they are a royal PIA to change, expecially by yourself on your back. I had forgotten about the ALDL test. I used that to troubleshoot my fuel pump, too.

 

You guys are sincerely appreciated, I only wish I had internet capability when I bought my '79 TA or for that matter my first '87 TA. Wealth of knowledge is an understatement.

 

Jetmeck,

Welcome Aboard!

Since you didn't specify the CAR, I'll include both sets of informantion. TJQIROC is all over it - the location of some components depends on the model:

For Firebirds (since that's what I have):



And Camaros:


Your relays are as such:



And incidentally, the prime cycle is two seconds after the ignition is first turned on. The prime cycle will not repeat until either the ignition is turned off for at least 20 seconds, or the distributor reference pulse signal is recieved by the ECM (from cranking or running).

Additionally, the "G" terminal test relies on the wire harness, connector, and fuel pump relay to be installed and intact. Power from the "G" terminal is routed through the normally closed contacts of the FP relay:



Hopefully, some of this will help.

 

Vader to the rescue with pictures again! Thanks, now I too know where the fuse and relay live.

Did you make any progress Jetmeck?

 

Holy crap Vader, no wonder you have 11,500 posts. You know you S**T. I, too, was wondering where the fuse and relay were without actually looking at the book.

 

VATS

 

VATS is possible, but not as likely on an '87. IIRC, not many of them came with VATS. I think that may only have been some GTAs and all Corvettes.


Yes, I've been told that I do in fact know S**T - and maybe that's all...

Don't make the mistake of confusing the number of posts with the quality of posts. Politicians speak in big numbers, too, but rarely have a clue.

 

Knowledgable and humble.......

....odd combination!

 

Had this happen to me today too. No start and no hum. It was a 20 amp fuse under the dash. Guess I lucked out.

 

Im fighting this too, though for me, the car will start on starting fluid. Its an 85 but with a 350 swap, from an LG4 (stick car). Im assuming it is an actual 350 since it has headers (and no reasons to lie since I bought it for 500 bucks)

I do get this weird almost hazzard light relay click under the dash anytime I turn the key to start. It goes on, then stops. My hunch its some aftermarket antitheft thing. It has a tiny button that needs to be pressed to even turn the engine over (that was fun figuring out...not).

So, its not the oil sender safety.
But no hum, no click (not even when the car fails to start, and its easier to hear). Problem is, I dont have the same relay setup as I see on most third gen TAs. I only have, that has a plastic base (so no grounding through the case like say Ford relays in that area).

I have no fuse by the battery, just two 30A fuses on thicker gauge wires. One goes to the solenoid, one to something I else. Not stock looking (yay...I broke my rule of getting a modded car, but its got a clean body, even the fuel pump hole is absent lol)

Waiting on a Chilton book to point me at least in a direction based on wiring. Next would be to hotwire the FP. I need to get it out of my neighbors driveway though. Some drama going on there and I want my car out! Will at least try to boat tank and inline 12V pump, to figure out other gremlins. Cars been sitting...a long time.

EDIT: Mine has an external FP. Just in time for everything else to crap out on the car. Was going to drive it for its first time....well, maybe by spring next year.