Hi, like the description says my plugs are black at the bottom and look to have a small amount of oil on them. I just did a tune up during the fall: plugs(AC Delco Rapid Fires), wires, cap, rotor. I was reading in another post and the general concensus is that I could have bad valve seals. The old plugs that I took out before putting in the Rapid Fires were very clean, which makes me wonder if I really do have bad valve seals. If it is a bad valve seal problem how much does it cost to fix this problem and does it require taking the engine apart? Is this an indication for worse to come later?

My car has only 85000 miles, but the previous owner had it parked for a while and the things he said were repaired were done half assed.

A little more insight on past starting trouble:

I did have a problem where the car wouldn't crank at all a couple times about a month ago. Eventually after letting it sit for a while it started cranking again.

After the last tune up the car started better when warm, but still would hesitate on a cold start. It would fire and then hesitate before starting to idle normally. It sometimes did take 3 tries to start the car.

I have noticed white smoke coming out of the exhaust a couple times. This isn't a common occurence, but it has happened.


Sorry for the long post, it's just frustrating having a car that only works for a month at a time.

 

Hmmmm....You sure you got correct plugs for your motor? Are they gapped correctly?

Just seems odd that your old plugs were "clean" but the new ones are oily.

Its' possible that the spark is too cold and allowing unburned fuel to accumulate on the electrodes.

I'd install a set of OEM plugs with correct gap first. Give it a try, and if its' still doing the same thing...THEN dig into the motor.

 

Time for a compression test...you can borrow what ya need at most auto zone stores...

As for the compression test, you first run all the cylinders in the normal fashion (all plugs out, coil disabled, choke and throttle held full open, crank each cylinder until max pressure reached, record each cylinder's pressure, etc.). That's the dry test. Then, you put a tablespoon or so of oil in the cylinders through the spark plug holes, turn the engine over a few times to spread it around the cylinder, and then repeat the compression test. If the rings are worn, the oil will tend to enhance the seal and raise the compression pressure significantly from the dry test. You have to do both in order for the wet test to have any meaning. If the dry test numbers are close cylinder-to-cylinder and where they should be (say 150 psi), and no significant change to the dry test, then everything's fine. If the dry test is low and the wet test is low, then you have valve sealing problems.

(per 5-7)

 

are you getting any spark through the plug wires? no spark, no crank. i wouldnt dig into the motor until ive checked everything.

 

what im saying is to start with small things before you do over complicated things. check your coil. make sure the distributor is plugged in. small things.

 

yeah i took out all my plugs & wires, cleaned the plugs and put them back in. Putting the front passenger plug wire back on right now actually. I noticed some white mineral deposits on the front passenger wire and the metal tip of the porcelyn part of the plug. I cleaned the plug, but I'm gonna need a new wire for the front passenger side. On some of the plugs I noticed brown spots at the base of the porcelyn part of the plug. Should I just go buy a new set of plugs and try them instead of cleaning these?

I hate putting the front passenger plug wire on. It is such a pita on my 3.1L

I suppose I will pull off my distributor cap and look at it as well as the rotor.

I'll keep you posted as to my progress. Thanks a lot for the advice so far.

 

Fairly Strange, I did compare the old plugs, which were Champions, to the new plugs AC Delco Rapid Fires. The Rapid Fires were slightly longer, I'd say about 5mm longer.

When I bought them I specifically asked if they would work in my 3.1, but it wouldn't be the first time the parts guy was clueless.

 

ummmm...I'd think they need to be the same length. Don't listen closely to me, I'm "old school"....VERY old school.

I just thought it was odd that it seemed your car was running(though not great)before you changed plugs. Now it won't fire.

You had clean plugs before, oily now.

Just things to think about.

 

Seems to me he already did the "easy Stuff"

 

Sorry if this wasn't clear before, but I did my tuneup in the fall just before it started getting cold here....Wisconsin weather .

Also a friend of mine suggested that I check the PCV valve just for completeness sake.

I was wondering also what is the best way to check for a vacuum leak. This could cause a no fire issue couldn't it?

 

"easy stuff" meaning checking for fire in the plug wires. engines run off of 3 things. fuel, air, and fire. no fire, no crank.