I took my starter (1991 Camaro RS LO3, 73K miles) to Autozone and it tested at 95 amps. According to the guy at Autozone the starter is no good and should be pulling 145 amps.
Can anyone confirm this?
I have a no start condition I can't figure out.
Turn ignition key, nothing, nada, dead.
Replaced battery, starter enable (anti-theft) relay, checked VATs, and park neutral switch.
Security light comes on for the two seconds then goes off, starter enable relay clicks, I'm getting 12 V to P/N switch. I'm stumped!
Thanks
Chris

 

do you have power to the starter? power with key to start position?

 

Ede,
Yes, Iv'e got power to starter.

Any thoughts on replacing the original starter with a 1995 LT1 starter? I've read several threads on this topic. I called 6 Chevy dealers this morning nobody has the stock AC Delco starter for a 1991 RS. Several have the LT1 starter in stock.
Nonwithstanding the issue of increasing the wire lengths and using LT1 bolts, any other issues or problems?
I think I read in another thread that the 1995 350 Z's have a 153 tooth flexplate, correct?
Thanks

 

lt-1 starter would work i think, and be better, smaller, and lighter. they should be able to cross it over and tell you if it'll work or not.

 

Thanks Ed!
I'll post the results in a couple of hours. Assuming the starter is the reason for the no start condition.
As far as the different starter mount bolt lenghts, the 1995 LT1 starter is exactly the same as a 1991 LO3, at least on the starter I just bought. The GM part# is 10465293.
Not sure about any better, but the package weight on the LT1 is 7.9 lbs!
It does appear I may have to lenghten the wires.
Chris

 

Well, the no start problem turned out to be the starter.
AC Delco GM Part # 10465293 (1995 Z28) will work on a 1991 Camaro LO3. The "original" starter is part # is 10455012. The parts guy showed 1995-2002 as the same starter. Don't know if that is true or not. I asked for a 1995 after reading another post on TGO.
The length of the two starter mount bolts are the same on these two starters. Shorter bolts were not necessary as mentioned in another post on this subject. I did not have to shim the starter.
The only problem I ran into was the length of the power wire from the battery to the solenoid. It was about an inch to short. I solved this by taking out slack about 12 inches (had just enough about 1.5 inches of slack) from the battery.
The positive cable is attached to the frame about 12-18" from the battery. You can bend back the "clamp" and pull the positive cable through some to give you the needed length to reach the solenoid terminal.
I had no room to slide the entire battery towards the driver side.
This starter seems to spin the engine quicker and of course sounds different which will take some getting used to after 5 years listening to the original starter on the car.
The reason I went with this starter is after calling 6 Chevy dealers, no one had a 1991 RS starter in stock. And I did not want to buy a cheap rebuilt Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. There is a difference between rebuilt and remanufactured.
After holding up an 8 lb starter with left hand and trying to start the bolt with the right hand I would hate to have to do this with a 20 lb starter
Hopefully, this starter will last awhile. FYI, it has a one year warranty.
Hope this helps anyone thinking about trying a lighter higher torque (more expensive though!) starter on an LO3.
Chris