aluminum drive shaft?
next question.....how durable and reliable is the aluminum drive shaft? because for 50 bucks more i could get a new *heavy duty* steel drive shaft...... even though its from SLP and will take uh a damn MONTH to get here
i hate slp shipping
i hate slp shipping
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
As long as you get a 98 and up one (LS1 type). There made a little more stronger than the rest and come with a dampner on the yoke. I would just say go with the aluminum. Given it's in good shape. Course I know nothing about the HD SLP one.
Just got to be carefull about ebay I've seen several driveshafts on there that sellers say is compelete but don't come with the transmission yokes and buyers have bid them up to 150 bucks or so. And well you don't want to end up in that boat. Also seen some that say their aluminum but from the pics you can tell there steel cause their covered in rust from yoke to yoke.
Also it will probably cost you 20 to 30 bucks to have an aluminum driveshaft shipped so you might want to figure that into the over all total.
Just got to be carefull about ebay I've seen several driveshafts on there that sellers say is compelete but don't come with the transmission yokes and buyers have bid them up to 150 bucks or so. And well you don't want to end up in that boat. Also seen some that say their aluminum but from the pics you can tell there steel cause their covered in rust from yoke to yoke.
Also it will probably cost you 20 to 30 bucks to have an aluminum driveshaft shipped so you might want to figure that into the over all total.
true true......i was just wonding about the durability...dent resistance....what MPH they were rated at...etc....if steel was a better choice due to its indefinate durability over aluminum....altho aluminum is alot lighter........whis is a plus....
just not sure which to go with
just not sure which to go with
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iTrader: (8)
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Hmm I think the aluminum is made more for high rpm applications. It should be lighter giving less stress on the drivetrain. Course I doubt it has as much blunt strength as a steel one but, there are a lot of cars out there using aluminum driveshafts. I won't use driveshaft at high speeds or rpms without at least a front driveshaft loop for saftey. Just not worth the chance of of something giving out.
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the reason i believe my driveshaft has had it, is because After a gear swap....at abou t100 mph theres a serious vibrating / grinding sound ....cant tell if its vibrating or grinding....
i feel that if it were the gears grinding they would be whinning something awful and they would literally explode.....as well as make the same sound at about 45 mph...not just 100 mph.
i think that i never saw the vibration or whatever it is before because i never went much past 100....and the higher gear ration raises the rpms 1000 rpm so now its noticable.....who knows.....
in any event its not a bad idea to replace the drive shaft anyways...
i feel that if it were the gears grinding they would be whinning something awful and they would literally explode.....as well as make the same sound at about 45 mph...not just 100 mph.
i think that i never saw the vibration or whatever it is before because i never went much past 100....and the higher gear ration raises the rpms 1000 rpm so now its noticable.....who knows.....
in any event its not a bad idea to replace the drive shaft anyways...
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Yeah, I think an aluminum driveshaft would be a good option. Most of us have experienced the vibration at higher speeds. I noticed mine after a converter/transmission/u joint swap. I plan on eventually getting an LS1 or looking into a spohn DS.
Like I said though you might think about throwing a loop on also. I bought mine off ebay for 28 bucks shipped.
Like I said though you might think about throwing a loop on also. I bought mine off ebay for 28 bucks shipped.
The only advantages of the Aluminum Dr Shafts are:
1) Lighter weight over the stock steel.
2) Vibration stopper over speeds of 80 MPH
3) Slight increase in performance. Note! (Slight)
Aluminum Dr Shafts that will fit 3rd gen cars. All are RPO JG1.
A) 1LE 2 3/4 dia original 3rd Gen one P/N 10085375
B) 1LE 2 3/4 dia on 4th gen LT1 P/N 10085375
C) LS1 3.0 dia on 4th gen LS1 P/N 12564003 *
These Aluminum Dr Shafts can be used on both Manual & Auto Transmission cars.
*Note: P/N may have been changed by GM
1) Lighter weight over the stock steel.
2) Vibration stopper over speeds of 80 MPH
3) Slight increase in performance. Note! (Slight)
Aluminum Dr Shafts that will fit 3rd gen cars. All are RPO JG1.
A) 1LE 2 3/4 dia original 3rd Gen one P/N 10085375
B) 1LE 2 3/4 dia on 4th gen LT1 P/N 10085375
C) LS1 3.0 dia on 4th gen LS1 P/N 12564003 *
These Aluminum Dr Shafts can be used on both Manual & Auto Transmission cars.
*Note: P/N may have been changed by GM
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From: Miami
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Hate to bring up an old thread, but could an aluminum driveshaft stand up to a 396 small block putting out about 450hp?
If so, there's a guy selling one from an 02 Trans Am for $100, and I might ****** it up. Thanks.
If so, there's a guy selling one from an 02 Trans Am for $100, and I might ****** it up. Thanks.
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