My check engine light started flash when I am driving (sometimes). I thought that if there was a problem, the light would just stay on - not flash. It's an 88 305 TPI with Auto.

Of course it goes off when I stop. Does that mean there isn't a code stored? Anyone ideas on where to start trouble shooting this?

 

Erm.. On OBD II (which we DON'T have) the light flashes only when the problem is so bad it will damage the catalytic convertor. I dodn't think OBD I stuff did that, too. And the light goes out when you stop? Wierd.

 

same thing is happening on my wifes 98 kia...lol
she won't drive it.
yeah, i think the flashing light has something to do with the cat converter. what exactly, i don't know.

 

Flashing lite means that the cpu senses a problem and then it is going away and coming back and going away. Could be just about anything. Pull the code and see what it says.

 

If it is an intermittent problem, say like for a few seconds where the problem corrects itself. The light will come on and then go out after a short time. It will still store a trouble code in the computer so you need to check to see what the problem was. I have an intermittent code 33 at the moment where the engine loses power momentarily and the light comes on. When the engine gains power again, the light goes out.

 

Could be a loose wire somewhere.
I know on a TBI car if you put the prom in backwards the SES light will flash quickly and hte car will run like ***.

 

The car seems to run fine (knock on wood) but I do get really bad gas mileage (about 13 MPG in the city). When I mean it flashes, it flashes very rapidly - the light is on for less than a second, goes off for less than a second and then repeats. Very rarely, does it stay on for about 1 to 3 seconds. I tried counting it once when it was flashing but lost count around 30 (remember it only happens when I am driving (not stopped).

I guess here is the next stupid question, how do I read the code?
I was thinking about get the Moates OBD1 software since it is suppose to be a logger too, is it really worth the money? How will I know the readings are "off" - will it tell me what the number is suppose to be or do I need a table?

 

Do you have an aftermarket chip in the car?

 

I really have no idea as I had gotten the car about 4 months ago and had only just started driving it on a regular basis (I've got a F-150 4x4 for the winter and the camaro is a convertible).

The car appears to be all stock except the fan wiring had been "mucked" with - it is a 305 TPI w/auto and dual fans. One of the two fans (the passenger side) runs all the time. There seems to be a foreign (not OEM) wire leading from the wiring harness close to the fan back to the part of the wiring harness near firewall back by the distributor. Also, the temp gauge of the car never gets above the second tick (I'm counting as if the tick at 220 is the third tick) so I am assuming it has a 160 or 180 thermostat in it. The seller had also claimed to have installed a "race" water pump - no idea what that really means or how to verify it. Of course he also claims the engine was rebuilt about 40K miles ago, but it still has a very slight oil drip coming from I think the oil pressure sensor/switch.

Anyway, would the Moates data logger software tell me if I am running too "cool". I have heard that could be a problem with these cars as the engine stays in cold start mode - which may explain why I have such bad gas mileage (assuming 13mpg in the city is bad).

Any ideas/suggestions?

 

That wire is being used to run the fan all the time.
I have my Formula wired up similiar to that, except I have 2 switches to ground each relay.
My temp also runs at the second tick (about 160-170) and I am running a 160# stat.

The data logger should tell you if it is in open or closed loop, but you can use WinALDL to do that and it's free, just need the cable.

 

I hope so, since it's free.

 

I know I've seen it around this site but couldn't find it.

I thought there was a way to pull the code without the software/cable. Also, thought there was a list of what the codes meant.

Can anyone give me a hand?

 

Here is the El Cheapo, can't afford a scanner method of checking. Take a paper clip and jumper pin "A" & "B" of the ALDL. They are the top two pins at the upper right corner of the ALDL. With the pins jumpered, turn the key to on and watch the service engine soon light. It will blink code 12 three times and then blink each new code three times and then repeat the cycle. Your fans will come on and that is normal as well as the code 12 flashing. Write the codes down, turn key off and remove the paper clip.

 

If it is a later model, try jumping pins 5 and 7.

 

Well, I tried to pull the codes tonite.

All got was a flash-pause-flash-flash (Code 12) - long pause and then code 12 again. This was the only thing that repeated. This repeated indefinitely (I counted about 10 code 12's).

I repeated the process, with the car off, jumped the 2 pins with a paper clip, turn on the car and then the code 12 thing started. This was the only thing that repeated.

Does this mean the error code is 12 or does it mean that I do not have any stored error codes? The check engine does not stay on -just flashes periodically/intermittently when I am driving. Never/very rarely when I am stopped will the CEL flash. It never (knock on wood) stays on.

Any ideas?!?!?!?!