Shut car off. Starter wouldn't crank at all 2 mins later. I took a screw driver and stuck in down there an crossed the terminals and it started. Ran like crap though, no power and smoke. Perhaps the starter stayed engaged, but I had to move it a short distance at the time so I had no choice.
Now of the two big terminals on the starter the one with the two red wires that V together have 12volts. Other single red wire and the purple little wire don't.
Took console apart and took neutral saftey switch and applied 12 volts to the purple wire there and the starter spun. (didn't try to start the car, starter was just hanging)
Now the neutral switch has been just laying there disconnected for months because I have a hurst dual gate. I just left it in 'park' position so I have no reason to think it would go bad, since the slide never moves anymore.
VATS has been turned off i the chip for a long time also.
This leads me to belive its in the steering column cylinder.
I did noticed when I was messing with it right before I used the screw driver the key was stuck in the cylinder. It wouldn't pull out like it should. It didn't want to rotate forward(like your starting it either) I finally got it to and now it rotates normal again.
Dash lights come on an temp gauge goes up when you attempt to start it, but it's dead.
So is there anything else this could be besides the column cylinder and is it normal for it to lock up like mine did before it breaks.
Is there any place closer I should test before I rip it apart to verify this, because I know it's a PITA.
THANKS!

 

Read this in another post.

"it ended up destroying the ignition switch on the column (not the cylinder you put the key in). "

Sounds like that could cause the key to be stuck and not rotate and also cause a no crank problem. Where and how do I replace that. Is it easier to get to then the ignition cylinder.

 

If you have power at the starter main positive terminal, check to make sure the fusible links and link connections are intact.

If your ignition switch is out of adjustment or loose/worn, you may be able to engage it fully by tilting the steering wheel to its lowest position, then using the key. That tends to help take up any slack in the rack gear and linkage rods.

An indication that the switch is operating to the full "crank" position is that the warning lamps on your dash will all illuminate in test mode, and the temperature gauge should sweep to full scale. If not, either the switch is not adusted correctly and is not closing the START contacts, or you have a different wiring problem.