TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

ok for the first time code 54 poppedup, i read the description and everything but im not understanding. what is code 54 in lamen terms?

Trickster

It basically means that the fuel pump is not getting enough voltage either through the fuel pump relay or the 12 volt driver in the ECM. Cheapest fix is new fuel pump relay.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

is that the most common fix?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Here is a test for code 54. Connect 12 VDC between ports A and G (top right and bottom left) of your ALDL. If the pump operates, then you have to buy a new ECM or check for damaged wiring (green wire I think is the culprit). If the pump doesn't run, then first replace the relay, and then on from there...

Mine was the ECM...

Trickster

q

Trickster

here is the other half of my first post.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

should i do this with the engine running or what?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

all power off
aka key off or not in place

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

ok so i can connect ports A & G without the key even in the ignition?

how do i tell if the pump is running? fuel spray from the TBI?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You have to connect A and G with a battery or power source for this to work. The ECM is bypassed when doing this, so the pump runs on the external power source if the wiring, relay, an dpump are good. You should be able to hear the pump running, or you might need to jump the terminals from a remote location (under the hood) using extension wire. It is best to listen for the pump because the injectors don't spray unless the ECM tells them to (could be wrong about TBI, I have MFI)...

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

can u draw me a pic please? thanks!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

batt positive connects to ALDL G.
batt negative connects to ALDL A (ground, completes circuit).

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

direct wires from the battery work? can i use like a D cell battery instead?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

12 VDC is needed here, not 1.5 VDC...
You would need 8 D size batteries to perform this test.

cbmotorsports

iTrader: (1)

Having a problem like this. Have had this problem since I bought the car. I have a new fuel pump (upgraded when I got the car), a different computer (have had several bad ones), new oil sending unit (broke it putting in rebuilt tranny), new relay due to just trying. If I clear all the codes by disconnecting the battery the code goes away for a while. It will take about 20 or 30 mins of driving before it will come back, then it comes on all the time. I do not see a drop in fuel pressure (have a gauge on the hood). I can tell it seems doggish though. Any ideas of things to try? I am running out fast.

Trickster

Check the ground wire for the fuel tank, it is mounted to the floor pan underneath the drivers seat near the door sill. Also, have you had your alternator tested lately. If you have a scan tool, you can check the voltage going to the fuel pump when the engine is running.

cbmotorsports

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I will give that a look. I know the alt. is new because the old one came apart on me putting it back together. I also know that doesn't mean anything either. I do remember the wire being a little fraid at the connection. Think that could be the problem? I will repalce that and check the ground, Thanks again.