Frequently asked problems.

I've seen this seen before but cannot seem to find it I'm in the market for a 87 and up used firebird. It's tough to find what i want so i'm simply asking what would be the most common problems relating to mechanical casatrophic failures.

Direct me to another thread perhaps or elaborate here.
So far i've i know to tune all the common sense parts, but what should i look for when looking at a car?

I definitely want 16's and won't settle for 15s i believe all the 87 and up years carry those. I'd like rear disc brakes but it isn't the biggest deal. I abousltely want a v8 305 5speed, so i'm forced into a much narrow'd market.

FAP:
Check for rust, leaky fluids anywhere, burnt tires, excessivly worn brake or clutch pedal, killed interior, condition of underhood parts, excessively worn, rusted, deterioting.

for a 100k+ car i except a minimum of $500 in repairs off the bat, but what do i look for to ensure the engine/tranny isn't gonna clunk as soon as i get home.

thanks

 

If the front tires are new and there is no tread on the back ones its probably a bad sign

 

check this out, no 5 speed but hey it is a 350 instead of a 305

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/414096

 

actually i am merely looking for some advice in searching for a used car, i'm probably going to buy whatever comes along for under 2grand and i want to know what are the common problems that come with these cars over time.

I can fix anything on a car i'm not worried about mechanical work, i just don't want to buy a peice of junk, and i know there are tricks that will help me in this determination, i can't find where i read it before though.

i don't want to be replacing anything over 1,000g right off the bat, what should i look for when test driving or simply looking over the car, i know the basics but can anyone elaborate?

thanks.

 

actually i am merely looking for some advice in searching for a used car, i'm probably going to buy whatever comes along for under 2grand and i want to know what are the common problems that come with these cars over time.

I can fix anything on a car i'm not worried about mechanical work, i just don't want to buy a peice of junk, and i know there are tricks that will help me in this determination, i can't find where i read it before though.

i don't want to be replacing anything over 1,000g right off the bat, what should i look for when test driving or simply looking over the car, i know the basics but can anyone elaborate?

thanks.

 

Seek - the Pittsburgh market it tough for 3rd gen's, huh? Been there.

Look at some basics. Make sure you start the car while the engine is COLD. If someone has warmed it up before you got there, they michg be hiding something. rd gens are famous for blowing a pull of blueish smoke when they first start. That means it needs new valve seals. A semi-difficult task, but not one that immediately needs addressed.

Look at the engine oil - is it dark black, or new? If black, it may indicate a lack of maintenance. If new, it could mean good maintenance, or trying to hide something. Ask questions - was it time for the oil change? Do they have reciepts for maintnenance?

When looking at manual cars, pay attention to the clutch engagement - is it smooth, does it slip? Does it chatter? When the car is in neutral, and your foot is off the clutch, is there any whining or grinding noises? Clutch slip, chatter, and grinding noise all mean it is time to replace the clutch. Next, pay attention to the shifting as you drive it - do all gears engage smoothly? Does it grind into any gears?

Check the front wheels - can you wiggle them from side to side? Grab the top of the wheel - can you move it in and out? If you can feel play, front end parts need changed.

Those are some of the bigger things I look at when buying a used car.

 

thats what i was looking for thanks man

yeah it is tough around here, i might have to be taking 2-3hour trip to get one if it boils down to it but it'll be well worth it.

i do expect to spend a couple hundred off the bat on maintence that is always neglected, and if the engine and tranny are good to go ill fix up the suspension with new poly bushings and with kyb's and moog springs, replace any suspension parts if needed and spend the regretful 500 on tires /w alignment these roads are sooooo terrible here!!!

 

Ask them if the heater core hasd been changed. Our cars are rather notorious for eventually needing heater core replacement. And the job is a pain in the butt.

Also, be aware of the engine your getting. There were three engines. Your basic Firebird and RS had the LO3. This is a 5.0L 305 with throttle body injection and 170hp. It came with both auto and 5sp.

Next was the LB9 5.0L TPI. This was also a 305 with tuned port injection and had 190 - 210hp depending on the year. It came with only the Trans Am and the Z28. It was available with both auto and 5sp.

Lastly there was the L98 5.7L TPI. This was a tuned port injection 350 that was available ONLY IN AUTO. It came in the Trans Am and the Z28 only.

There were a few exceptions to the above but I don't think we need to get into that right now.

Just be more informed than I was when I got my RS. Don't get me wrong, my car is great and it worked out very well for me. But if I had it to do over again, I would make sure I got the 350.

Good luck

Bill

 

The LB9 had as much as 245hp from the factory. It came in the Z28, Formula, Trans Am, and the GTA (those three might all fall under the trans am catogory, I don't know much about pontiacs f-bodys).
The L98 also came in the Z28, Formula, Trans AM, and GTA, and you forgot to mention the Iroc which I guess could fall under z28.
If he looks at an 87, it could actually have the LG4 in it 135-170hp.

Anyone else love this table?
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml

 

You are correct. My bad. The LO3 came about in '88.

 

Seek:

Have you been checking all of the 'net resources?

Autotrader.com
Cars.com
getauto.com

Plus the classifieds here?

I had to drive to NJ to get my car, but I think I got a good deal.

If I hear of anything locally, I'll send you an e-mail.

 

i'm probably going to simply buy whatever comes along under 2grand, i mean i know i want tpi but it's just not going to happen unless i'm REALLY lucky, and i really don't have any problem with tbi for a daily driver, as long as it moves it's better than what i got now(89 cavliar 2.0, lots of slippage lol)

i've checked autotrader many times and occationally there is one for under 2g's but its usually a v6 or v8 auto. i have considered all the conversions but i know it best to get what you want, v8 manual

thanks again, ill be looking around may when it gets warmer, and then i'll have enough loot

 

the 8th digit of the vin is a valuable thing

i want an F or an E and NOT NOT NOT a H !!!!!!!

 

Actually you should just stay with the "F". Don't get the "E" unless it is one killer deal.

Just my opinion and I have both an "E" and an "F".

 

What does the "F" on the VIN 8th digit mean? My car is a 1985 Iroc-Z and has the "F" on the vin, just curious?

 

The "F" means its the LB9 engine. 305 TPI.

The "E" means its the LO3 engine. 305 TBI

The "8" means its the L98 engine. 350 TPI