This is what I have so far. Please look at the setup and suggest what cam, rods, and crank to use with this setup. This is going to be a daily driven vehicle, so please keep it street friendly. I don't have a money tree, but am willing to save up for some good forged internals, not the cheapest but not ones rate at 800 hp. I don't intend on putting this engine past 450 hp at the rear wheels. I am aiming for more like 370-410 at the rear wheels. Please be specific with the parts so that I can find them. I have limited car knowledge.

Compression ratio is 10.3:1

Basic 2 bolt .030 over 350

O deck height

Keith Black Silv-O-Lite Signature Series Pistons
Summit #UEM-KB106030-8
Specifications:
* Bore: 4.030 in.
* Stroke: 3.480 in.
* Rod length: 5.700 in.
* Compression ratio: 10.9:1 (58cc heads), 10.4:1 (62cc heads), 10.2:1 (64cc heads), 8.9:1 (76cc heads)
* Head type: Flat top
* Oversize: .030 in.
* Ring size: 1/16 in. top/second ring, 3/16 in. oil control ring


Chevrolet: 302/327/350, complete, Victor Jr. 23 degree cylinder head
Summit #EDL-77589
Make Chevrolet
Engines 302-327-350
Series Victor Jr
Head Components Complete
Finish Natural
Int. port vol. 215cc
Exh. port vol. 80cc
Chamb. vol. 64cc
Deck thickness 9/16 in.
Int. valve size 2.08 in.
Exh. valve size 1.60 in.
Valve spring dia. 1.55 in.
Rocker stud dia. 7/16 in.
Pushrod dia. 5/16 in.
Maximum Valve Lift .650 in.
Bolt Torque 65 ft.-lbs.


Crane Blue racer aluminum roller rockers
Jegs#270-WG3062
7/16"


Edelbrock Vic JR Manifold#2975
Summit Number #EDL-2900
Specifications:
* Powerband: 3,500 to 8,000 rpm
* Manifold height: 4.58 in.
* Port exit dimensions: 1.26 in. x 2.07 in.
* Finish: Natural
* Non-EGR

Holley 750cfm #4779 carb, stock 70-80jetting. 3.5" power valve.
Part #: 0-4779C (Holley Site)
Carburetor, Gasoline, 750 CFM, Manual Choke, Dual Inlet
Summit Number #HLY-0-4779C

 

What type of cam do you want? Flat tappet? Roller? once you decide that, which do you want: Hydraulic or solid? With the above setup, a good hydraulic roller would be decent. Those heads flow strongest in the .500-.600 lift range (yes they flow MAX at .700, but are you REALLY going to run a cam with that much lift?). WIth the type of power you are after, i would HIGHLY suggest making the jump to forged pistons. hypereutectics have a tendency to fail miserably under detonation conditions. Speed Pro/TRW is good for the price. Probe pistons are also a great piston for the price. Cams with a lift of like .500-.525" would be a great start. Tossing 1.6 rockers would increase the usable lift without any drastic effects on the duration. Cams with specs similar to the XR282hr or 288hr would be a good look. Solid rollers are another option, but you say you have limited car knowledge, so i wouldnt jump into anmything solid as it requires keen attention to lash. For the best suggestion, cal up Comp cams, talk to them. tell them what you want, the setup you have, and they will give you a recommendation. Whatever they suggest, i recommend running the recommended springs. Ive never realy broght myself to trust the springs that companies place on heads. Also, on that note, have you already purchased those heads? If not, what is it about those particular heads that you like? With the importance that cylinder heads play in performance, i wouldnt go limiting heads. find a few heads you like, post them up and we can tell you what you'd be happiest with.

When you DO go about selecting a cam, theres a few things to watch out for. The individual specs of course, but on top of that, keep in mind how they effect each other and how they in turn effect street manners. Running with a cam that has monster duration is fine and all in itself, but when combined with a small lobe seperation (distance in cam degrees between the intake and exhaust lobe centerlines, ake, the lobes are closer together), that produces a lot of valve overlap. Thats fine and all for high RPM power like oval track and all out drag. But for street cars, that reduces the idle quality, it causes for the choppy idle sound. On top of that, it reduces vacuum, which directly effects how well your car will be able to stop. Generally, the higher the valve overlap, the higher up the power curve will be. In turn, you will need to run a higher stall speed. Running a higher duration, however, lets you get away with running a higher compression as it helps tame detonation (in a sense). So keep that in mind. If it were me, i wouldnt want to risk over 10.5:1 on aluminum heads. Anything more and its race gas. MOST off the shelf cam grinds for this type of power band will run with 110° lobe seperation angles. You might also want to look into some of Crane's or Lunati's grinds.

As i said above, there are different cam types. Mainly flat tappet (lifter) and roller tappet. If budget is an issue, keep in mind, power CAN be made all the same (to a point) with hydraulic flat tappet. However, making power is a bit easier with roller lobes due to the allowance of steeper ramp rates.(the rate at which valves are opened and closed). Steeper ramp rates simply open the valve faster and keep them open longer. Flat tappets are limited due to their face design and the fact that if they are run too aggressivly, they will dig into the lobe. Thats bad. And a cant emphasize proper spring pressure enough. Also, for that type of setup, a rev kit would not be out of the picture. They place extra pressure on the lifters to help reduce valve float. That allows you to run higher RPM's, where, in this instance, the power will be made.

 

I don't know about roller or solid or such. Whatever works best for the application I listed: reliable daily driver with *****

As far as the head issue goes. I was suggested to run these heads first:

Dart 215cc 64cc cast iron heads (iron eagle)
summit #DRT-10521122

Specifications:
* Intake Runner: 215 cc
* Combustion chamber: 64 cc
* Straight spark plugs
* Intake valve: 2.05 in.
* Exhaust valve: 1.60 in.
* Valve spring diameter: 1.437 in. dual valve springs

However, I wanted something I could run right "out of the box". Again because I don't know much about porting and didn't want to pay anyone to do it. However, if there are any other good heads for the price, my mind is open. These are the pistons I had in mind if I had to go forged:

Wiseco Pro Tru Forged Piston Kits
Chevrolet: 350: .030 in. overbore, 3.480 in. stroke, 6.000 in.
Summit #WIS-PT008H3

Specifications:
* Bore: 4.030 in.
* Stroke: 3.480 in.
* Rod length: 6.000 in.
* Compression ratio: 11.1:1 (58cc heads), 10.3:1 (64cc heads), 10:1 (67cc heads), 9.1:1 (76cc heads)
* Head type: Flat top with 2 valve reliefs
* Dome volume: -5.4cc
* Oversize: .030 in.
* Ring sizes: Accepts 1/16 in. top ring, 1/16 in. second ring, and a 3/16 in. oil control ring
* Pin style: Floating

Granted, I am going to pay someone to put these together into the final product, which should hopefully be a reliable small block for the car I am going to put it in. I have not bought anything yet. But I am going to start buying parts in a week, so I wanted to get the setup done before then so I know what to buy. I am going to the U-Pick this weekend to pull the engine out and have the block machined soon after.

 

Do you have a budget? Comp Cams has prematched cam kits that come complete with the camshaft, lifters, timing chain/gears, valve springs, spring retainers and locks, and valve seals. If you went with that route (yes its a bit more expensive), BUT you could then proceed to purchase bare castings and build the heads specific to your combo. If money permits, it is hard to beat the value of AFR.

 

I do have a budget. A pretty tight one too. However I am a firm believer in the "do it right or don't do it at all" theory. So if I have to save money for a few more months to get it done right then I will. I would like to keep the engine under lets say 2500-3000. Somewhere in the middle. And if possible, let that price include assembly. But I don't want to have to save for 8 months for this either. I am a college student so its not easy to get money. But to answer the question, yes. But I am not going to build something that is going to break in a year. I am not going to race this engine at the track so I hope it can last for years.

 

If i may ask, why are you aiming for such high numbers? trust me, from experience i know that a high performance engine is NOT college friendly. and usually NOT the route to take. If youre in college, a torquer engine would be far more beneficial.

Check your PM's

 

I just like acceleration lol. 400 at the wheels puts me where I want to be as far as the amount of acceleration I suppose. I live in the city, so I don't drive too far from place to place. Mostly street driving and little highway.

Check you PM lol.

 

400 at the wheels is like 500 some odd hp at the crank. Thats a lot. you want acceleration, you want TQ, not HP (but it helps)

its not recognizing your MSN name

Throw a message to stekmanz28@msn.com (i may be getting food, so be patient, lol)

 

I know acceleration is more related to torque than horsepower, but I just wanted enough to put in running low 12s in the quater. Actually, should be a bit lower on the car I am putting the 350 in.

 

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