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A little bench Racing, Help me out guys :)

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Old Feb 23, 2001 | 01:50 AM
  #1  
Bort62's Avatar
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A little bench Racing, Help me out guys :)

Ive got 2 Buildups In Mind here, One short term, one Long term.

The Short term :

My stock 305 Lg4 Block, With The Vortech L30 Heads ( Maybe ) Comp XE262H And performer RPM Intake.

AS far as headers, I have heard Good things about the TES, but are they The best deal ?
I want to use something On this That I can also use on my 350 build, I dont like Buying things Twice. So I wont mind going with a header that is a little too large for this application, If it will work out well on my L98.

Keep In Mind, I live in California, So emmisions are a Concern. Im Not opposed to Doing massive swaps Prior to E check *( even entire engines, if it comes down to it )* But I would like to keep the Headers Smog legal. It Minimizes the hassle. Ideally i would like a setup that I can just toss all the Visual stuff on, Functional or not, and Squeeze by the Sniffer. but If My Motor is too agressive then I will just have to swap It out for An emissins built 305, And in that case I might as well Swap everything including headers back to stock manifolds. So, are there quality headers I should Look at without emissions provisions ?


How Do the L30 heads Compare to the 416's I have ? How Much of an improvement Would they potentially be worth ? Ive heard alot of Mixed results with these.

Do you think I should bother with this ? I imagine it would Wake the motor Up Quite a bit, and for a relatively low cost< holding me over till I can Build the Long term.

Long Term : I have more Questions about this one.


L98 Shortblock, 9.5:1 Compression If i recall properly.
Vortech heads Redrilled for Normal Bolt pattern
Performer RPM intake
Same exhuast and Everything.

What cam would be a good Match to this Combo ?


I know this is a little ambiguous, but Im Looking for a Cam that will Match the heads and induction Setup Well, and Im not entirely sure wich that would Be. I would like to Stay within The Confines of the stock width Valvesprings On Lift, because If I have to start Machining, This is gonna get expensive on me.

Im not looking for Ungodly amounts of horsepower or anything, just a respectable Daily Driver. I Want to take Full Advantage of the Vortech heads Low cost and relatively Good Flow charactoristics.

Carb Wise Im Not entirely sure What to Do. Im tempted to try to use the E4ME To keep Milage up, But that may be futile With these proposed Mods, What Do You think ?

If using the E4ME is going to be a magor bottleneck, Then no sense in messing around, Ill just go with a 650 or 600 edlebrock, I have had good experiance with those in the past.

Eventually I would like to Go to TPI, but the $$ is in Short Supply.

A stupid Question, but the answer evades me Right Now. Any reason I couldnt Use a flat Tappet cam in the L98 roller block ? I would like to if possible, to keep Cost Down.

Im a Poor College student, after all

Thanks alot guys, sorry If that was Poorly worded.

------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

[This message has been edited by Bort62 (edited February 23, 2001).]
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Old Feb 23, 2001 | 11:45 AM
  #2  
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There are super factory rollers out there that can be had cheap.

Another point I want to make. Buy your headers to make power / NOT for emissions. The factory log manifolds are the best thing you can do for emissions. Headers will scavenge and flow too much air at lower RPM's making it harder to pass the emissions test. Make it easy on yourself and just slap the stock manifolds on before the test.

[This message has been edited by The ODB (edited February 24, 2001).]
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Old Feb 23, 2001 | 11:51 AM
  #3  
vortecfcar's Avatar
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From: Crystal Lake Il
Car: '98 Z
Engine: LS1/6
Transmission: 4l60E
you dont need to drill the vortec (no H) heads for a performer RPM intake.....edelbrock makes one that bolts right up to the stock holes

------------------
91 RS W/carbed 350, Vortec heads, performer rpm, Comp cams Xtreme energy 224/230 duration and .477/.480 lift. BFG Drag radials. 3.42 posi,Corvette servoed 700r4, 3000 stallconverter. Edelbrock TES, 3inch cat, flowmaster with single 2.5 inch exit.
Best time yet to come
12's?? :crossthumbs:
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Old Feb 23, 2001 | 01:12 PM
  #4  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Flat tappets work fine in a roller block. Look at all the truck blocks in the world that are roller blocks, without the retainer bosses drilled & tapped.

The RPM manifold will probably not meet CA specs for the visual, it has no EGR. Not that an intake is a massive swap, but just a note.

If your longer term plans do not include a 305, I would not buy 305-specific heads. 416s with a cam that mild should be OK if suitably ported.

IMHO the TES should be OK for the 305 setup, and probably OK for a 350 as well even if not ideal, if you expect it to be a daily driver

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
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Old Feb 23, 2001 | 04:41 PM
  #5  
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From: Belleville, IL USA

oh yeah, the RPM intake does have an exhaust crossover passage, so you could rig up an EGR if you wanted.



[This message has been edited by The ODB (edited February 24, 2001).]
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Old Feb 24, 2001 | 01:14 AM
  #6  
Bort62's Avatar
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First off, Thanks For your Reply's.

Secondly, Let me Clarify some things


I know I can get a RPM intake Made for the Vortech pattern, But Since i have to Pass emissions, I had planned to Slap On A Smog legal intake for the test, One with a Visual EGR, Altho It would not be Functional.
( it isnt functional at idle anyways... duh )


I agree about the ODB, so wich would You suggest ?


And Rb, the only Reason I would use the Vortech heads for the 305 is Because I may have a friend Selling some, Possibly at quite a bargain, Just an added bonus To Hold Me over. Im Not gonna Go out and buy New ones.

Again, Thanks.




------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
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Old Feb 24, 2001 | 06:18 AM
  #7  
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From: Brevard Florida
The cost difference between the roller cam and tappet cams isn’t as high as you may think if you are starting with a roller motor.

You can use all your roller hardware from a donor motor if the motor you are building is a roller block. The only exception is that there are some differences in the cam retainer from 305 to 350 (about $10 from GM). Other than that you can re-use everything... the roller lifters, retainers, retainer plate and push rods.

Yes, roller lifters that are still in good condition can be used with your new roller cam. I soaked mine in carb cleaner and then sprayed out with an alcohol based brake cleaner, then used compressed air to dry. Mine had about 120k on them and were in great shape after cleaning.

There are two major advantages as far as I am concerned when it comes to roller cams: 1-- for the same duration, there will be more lift under the curve... this is more power without other sacrifices.
2-- reliability... tappet cams can go flat.

Here is my tappet cam horror story. The first motor I built was a 350 .040 over kit that I got from PAW. I broke it in with the supplied cam lube according to the manufacturers directions, changed the oil after break in and again after 500 miles. At about 5000 miles one of the lobes went flat and sent metal through the motor. The oil filter should have handled this but the high pressure oil pump rendered the oil filter ineffective because of the oil filter bypass valve (live and learn). The metal particles from the cam lobe ate my crank and bearings.
In this case the $100 I saved by using a tappet cam ended up costing me over 3 times that much in machine work and parts.

------------------
1988 T/A,
9" Ford, 3.50 gears, Auburn posi, 700r4 -w- 2100 converter
350 .060 over with forged 1 pc rms crank, and forged TRW pistons, 9.5:1 cr
Factory GM heads Pocket ported, 2.02/1.60 valves, back cut
Lunati roller 219/227, .479/.480, 112 LSA
Holley 700cfm 4bbl on TBI truck 7747 computer and chip by Howell-EFI
Edelbrock Performer EGR intake, Edelbrock TES and 3" cat
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Old Feb 24, 2001 | 11:29 AM
  #8  
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nevermind
I'm having an oldtimers episode.

sorry RB83, you can slap me later. Been working with older blocks too long.

ODB




[This message has been edited by The ODB (edited February 24, 2001).]
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Old Feb 24, 2001 | 04:20 PM
  #9  
MRZ28HO's Avatar
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From: was: Palmdale, Ca
Car: was: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: was: L69
Transmission: was: 700-R4
Here is what I would recommend:

How short is "Short Term"? This can affect what can be done finacially (so as not to spend extra cash).

Headers: Any headers that utilize 1-5/8" primaries and have a CARB EO# are good. (ie: Hookers # 2055, Heddmans #68481, Edelbrocks #6871, SLPs #30000) Although others have said to use Edelbrocks, I would discourage the use of such.

L30? Isn't it sopposed to be L31? Anyway, if you plan on using them on your "Long Term" project as well, that is fine. Though, be for warned, the LG4 has 8.5:1 comp ratio and with the Vortec's 64cc (305 has 58cc) chambers, you'r CR could drop to high 7.x:1. Read as super gutt-less.

As stated above, what is "Long Term"?

With the Vortecs, that Comp Cam would be almost right for the 350, maybe a tad small. On the 305 it will be a tad big, but fine. Since your on a College student budget, why not look at LT1 used cams? This way you can retain your roller setup. I am all for flat-tappet (cheaper ) but if you have a roller block why use a flat tappet? The intake is a good one, although I'd say that you can go with an Action+ (#8004 has EO#) and still have a similar power range as the RPM, while retaining emission legallity. Plus you wouldn't have to bother pulling/re-installing a different intake to pass smog.

Now one final thing, (depending on your precise location) smog test are conducted at ~2500 rpms (25 mph and 35 mph) on a roller. Having said that, it is imperrative that the EGR is functional as it operates in this rpm range with the required vacuum. The techs, if smart, will hook up a vacuum pump to your EGR, and supply vacuum at idle. If your cars does nothing, that's it you failed, end of dicussion. The car should stumble and shut off when vacuum is applied to the EGR at idle.

BTW: I, too, am from the "sunshine" state, up in the high desert.

------------------
George P. Lara
1984 "L69 A4"

Soon to be 357, T5, 3.70
1994 LT1 M6
SCCA, SCFB, SC3GFB
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