What do you replace, and where do you get the parts? Also, is there an exploded diagram of sorts to follow?

lm tired of paying $90+ for an alternator. Figure if l can rebuild it, it'll be cheaper, and there is no way l could mess it up anymore than the factory remans.

Clayton

 

You can get parts anywhere. AZ, PB, NAPA, your local ma & pa, etc.

You'll need a brush kit, and the bearings; plus anything that might be defective in the one you have, such as the diode trio or the regulator. If either of the windings or the main bridge rectifier are bad, you're better off getting another one (if you want, a junk one to hork the parts out of). They're really easy to do. If you take it apart it's pretty obvious. Sand the slip rings real good with emery cloth until there's no sign of wear from the old brushes on them. Grease the rear bearing before you assemblt it.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Sounds great and simple. Yet l still have a question. How do you know whats wrong? As in, whats to replace? l dont want to replace everything if l dont have to, whereas at the same time, l dont want to not replace something if l need to.

Clayton

 

You would use a combination of what the alternator is doing, and ohmmeter readings.

If the alternator just kind of quit working, maybe was a little intermittent or weak before it stopped, chances are the brushes are worn out. If it had the problem where the "Choke" light came on dimly at idle, especially with light on A/C on but went out when the ROMs rose, it probably needs a diode trio. If it produced massive amounts of whine in the stereo, it may need a bridge rectifier. You can check the diode trio, the bridge, the stator, and the armature with an ohmmeter; obviously the windings sholud looke electrically like long pieces of wire, and the diodes should look like diodes. If it didn't work, or way over or undercharged the battery and none of the other parts are bad, it probably needs a regulator.

What makes you think you need an alternator? Maybe there's a clue there as to what needs to be replaced.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

RB83,
were you a rebuilder?

I have always prefered using external adjustable regulators. I think they work better.

what is your opinion on this?

 

No, other than strictly at need...

I have no fixed opinion on the internal vs. external question. Electrically, there's basically no difference; something like a Motorola regulator is very similar electronically to a 10SI Delco one. The advantage of an internal is simplicicty in the wiring, the advantage of the external is ease of replacement. Functionally they're equivalent, I guess it boils down to preference especially in something like a race car where you can put in anything you want.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Hmmm. Depends on the type of alternator. If it's the larger older style with a large power wire and a 2 wire plug then it's easily rebuildable. If it's one of the newer smaller styles with a multi pin plug then it's not rebuildable. At least no easy since you need to unsolder parts to get the alternator apart.

The 10SI's are rebuildable.
I believe the non rebuildable ones are considered 10SU models but I could be wrong.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

well with external adjustable, the main difference is that it's very consistent because it stays much cooler. The regulator lasts longer and increases the output of the alternator VS a hot internal regulator.
The adjustable feature is nice too.
Back in the day, we used to mount the adjustable regulator under the dash to boost voltage during stereo crank-it up contests.
I suppose that's where my preference started with the external. Now I just like them better.
ODB

 

Whats so hard about Un Soldering Stephen ?




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype