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first motor build need help getting into 13's

Old Apr 3, 2004 | 12:20 PM
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first motor build need help getting into 13's

ok guys i have rebuilt the top end of a SBC 3 times so i don't have a problem with that (other then setting vavle lash) but i'm goign to be building my first 350 this yea and i need to get it done by the 29th of may. last year my 305 ran 15.1 in the 1/4 i want to be in the 13's or low 14's this year. if i have the money i'm goign to get it bored .030 over but if not i'm goign to keep the block stock other the the following

hooker 2055's headers

high flow cat

edelbrock RPM intake

Holley 600cfm carb jeted and tuned to the motor

MSD 6AL box

1.5 full roller rockers

high flow oil pump

REV kit

MSD wires

NGK plugs

flowmaster 80's

stock heads unless i can find a place that can do a port and polish job for a good price

i want to use the zz4 cam but my motor is a non roller block and i think the zz4 cam is a roller cam

any other ideas to help me get where i want to be this year?
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 12:28 PM
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you need to wait untill you have more money if boring it puts a dent in your budget. you need to wait until you can afford a decent set of heads. you need to do more research and pick the rest of the parts in the combination.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 12:34 PM
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you think the only way i will make it into the 13's is if i bore it?
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 12:48 PM
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
The stock heads are going to be the biggest problem in your plan.

Porting stock head is very labour intensive ( takes a long time) A shop would have to charge you many hours to do this properly. Most race shops turn their nose up at porting stock heads anyways. Its better to do the porting yourself and then have a shop do the new valve job. Its not hard to do but does take time.
Some stock heads are not really worth working with.
What are the casting numbers on the heads you have now?

Retro fitting a hyd roller cam into this motor is not very cost effective.
You don't need to use a ZZ4 cam or any other roller cam just to get in the 13's.
A properly selected hyd flat tappet cam will do just fine.
There are many that make more power than a ZZ4 cam.

A mechanical flat tappet cam will make even more power
and rpm. Its not hard to adjust valve lash and does not need to be done constantly once you get your head around it. Once every 3 months is fine for a hi-performance street motor..
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 01:14 PM
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Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
boreing it isnt gonna really gonna make a significant differenace as far as power goes, its generally only used if the cylinders require it.. for example a scratched cylinder from a broken ring or maybe a rust spot on the cylinder wall or an out of round cylinder, well your get the idea, boreing for a proformance gain is a waste of money, save you money and put it towards a good rotating assembly and some decent heads. that is if your block doesnt need to be bored. Don't waste your money if it isnt nessicary. Thats pretty much the point I'm trying to make. haha
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 02:16 PM
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ede
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point is you need to bore it to make the hole round and straight, if you can't aford basic machine work you should wait to do everything else.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 02:47 PM
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well the block is fine no need for it to be bored i just wanted to tell anyone that i had a 355
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 02:54 PM
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ede
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even if you bore it it's still a 350. guess lot of people get wrapped up in calling a 350 +.030 a 355
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 03:18 PM
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Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
that was my point exactly, if you've actually measured and the cylinder is still perfectly round and shows no signs of scoring, rust or pitting run a hone down it and call it done. Only bore it if it actually needs to be bored, boring isnt always nessicary it depends on the condition of the engine.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 03:21 PM
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ede
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since this is you first engine you can't always tell the condition of a bore by looking .003 or so is the limit on out of round and taper. unless you've ran a dial gauge around and up and down each hole you don't really know if it's perfect of not.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 06:22 PM
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89RsPower!'s Avatar
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Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
yup. thanks ede thats what I was trying to say there... don't go by looking at it and assuming its round, actually measure it.. if its within spec then your good to go, if its marginal i'd have it punched.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 09:44 PM
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the bare block was already tested for all that
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Old Apr 5, 2004 | 09:52 AM
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so what kind of heads should i get that are not over $1,000
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Old Apr 5, 2004 | 10:11 AM
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From: Oklahoma
Car: 1991 Trans AM GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by My86Firebird
so what kind of heads should i get that are not over $1,000
Do some research and find the heads/cam/intake combo that works good together. You can't just throw pieces together and expect them to work together. If you just start throwing pieces together, they may not work together which will actually hurt you and you will not achieve the goals that you have set for the car.
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