ok I went through and was working on some gasket matching and removing those annoying *** dots and blending what i was shaving away with the die grinder....and then i suddenly noticed there were 2 lines on the outter part of the intake ports...is this normal or did I mess up a head?

I will try to post pics soon (gotta get some batteries)....but if anyone has any pics of their port an polish job that would be excellent!!! thanks...

 

first one

 

pic 2

 

ok the red squares were there to help me distingush wha ti was looking at in the pics plus the pics were ALOT larger but i trimmed them down some....the yellow arrows point to what i was concerned with....are these normal? will they fade out as i shave out mroe metal?

also so far how is the job looking? and any suggestions?

thanks

 

Those look to be casting lines, were the 2 halves were put together at

 

so dont worry about them? or jsut try to make them even with the rest of the ports?

 

Those are normal, I wouldn't worry about them. I wouldn't go hogging out the ports just to make them go away, they're not going to affect the outcome of the job.

Can't tell much about the job as a whole; the pics don't show any of the parts that really matter. Where you need to concentrate your efforts is on smoothing the roof of the ports, especially right behind the valves; and blending the short side radius, without lowering the floor. Enlarging the intake ports, or gasket matching them, produce very little results even after the other things are optimized; and are completely ineffective if those other things remain imperfect.

In order of importance, the areas of a stock head that you should concentrate on are:

the throat of the valves; needs to be smooth and free of steps, but no larger than about 85% of the diameter of the valve

the bowls; free of casting irregularities, no lumps or strange shapes especially around the long side

the short side radii; need to be smooth, no casting irregularities or steps, but DO NOT lower them

the valve guides; either have them machined off flush with the port (not always a good idea, it depends on the particular head) or tear-drop shape them and shape the port roof for smooth flow around them. Don't try to decrease their diameter too much, especially the exhaust, they're needed for cooling the valve.

the push rod pinch; needs to be smooth and even, but don't try to eliminate it, because you can hit crankcase

any significant casting parting lines or other imperfections in the ports need to be eliminated

last, and least; "gasket matching"


Remember always, your goal isn't to "hog out" the port, it's to make it smooth and streamlined, and make the surfaces of the port where flow is highest (along the roof) as friendly as possible to smooth, non-turbulent flow. Just making them bigger by removing metal isn't the goal. You can actually decrease their flow by improperly hogging them; they'll look huge, measure huge, but flow terrible. Happens more often than you might think in back yard port jobs.

 

I found in my experience that you just can't get the last degree of the casting seams to grind smooth. The iron is just less dense there, so if you can't get it much better than you currently are, don't sweat it

Congratulations by the way! Too many people are losing out on free hp and torque because a pair of inert iron heads frighten them. It really is just a state of mind, and you're standing at the plate and swinging for the fence--good for you!

 

i am workign on gasket matching first for the purpose of getting used to what I am doing and SEEING the flow differences and what not...sorta t get comforatable with what I am doing...the die grinder spins awefully fast and takes away very little metal....ill work on the Radii once i read up and look at more pictures of what they should look like...if anyone has any they would like to post that would be great...

Thanks RB83L69 for all the info...it will be very helpful once I work from baby crawling to baby steps....



Sitting Bull thanks for teh support man! I hope things turn out well...

 

If you haven't been here http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm , shame on you. Those are 416's in their pictures. Notice the casting line http://www.sa-motorsports.com/portdiy/portdy20.jpg .

The same instructions come in their Deluxe Porting Kit.

 

my best friend from these boards loaned me 2 carbibe tips...one with a long extended shaft and one that was kinda short...and he started working on the heads first...and I have jsut started finishing up what was started so i can pop valves offa other head and get to work on it....i think this was all he used on his set of heads that work wounders...i saw some of whtat he did before he put the head on but I was very new to all this and didnt understand it too much at all at that time...now i sorta do...he is outta town and I was gonan try and make a "surprise"...because for the swap all i really have to have is a HEI Distributer, Carb, AFPR, and some fuel lines...roller lifters would be a plus but if i cant find them cheep enough oh well, ill worry with them later....

has anyone done this swap on a 92 305 TBI before? Were you able to use the TBI unit, or did you have to go to carb as well???

Awesome links five7kid ...reading up on them now...thanks!