I got a 91 vette TPI. If I change the rods to fordge i-beam, and fordge trw pistons, then I change all the bolts to ARP. BUT I keep the stock crank ( if it looks OK ). Is that combo safe up to 450 hp and 6000 rpm?

Thanks

 

If it is a well balanced setup, i can see it taking that. I dont know about the RPM though.

If i may enquire, what is you setup that you want to spin to 6k? Are you spinning just to rev high? or is this a high rpm motor? If you are spinning just for the fact that you want to feel special and spin it, i advise otherwise. That is how you mess things up. If you are spinning this because this is a higher rom motor and makes the power up top, why are you even considering a cast crank? youve gone forged on the rest of the parts, why not finish it off and know you have a quality bottom end that can take a beating.

 

its a LT4 hot cammed miniram engine and its a 6spd. So I guess you can say its a high reeving setup.
If the stock crank can take 450 hp and 6000rpm why change it?
If its proven to fail with this power output i will change it.
When starts the 2 main block be to weak?

 

For most DD activities, a 2 bolt vs 4 bolt doesnt make THAT much of a difference. The only option you have for the 2 bolt is drilling for new main caps (splayed).

Like i said, you should be ok. But like i said, if youre going all forged for the rest of the bottom end, why skimp out now?

<a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/search.php?s=">Try this crank</a>

Sorry, had to.

 

mmm I hear ya. I just try to save some money. I live in Sweden so shipping and taxes on parts from US is sky high
I also consider a scat 9000 iron crank. But with a new crank comes balance issues. With new rods and pistons you "only" have to weight match them to the stock ones. With a new crank you may need heavy metal on the crank.

 

ooOOoohh you live in SWEDEN....now i see how things can be hard for you. Should have said that in the first place. I would have looked on it in a WHOLE new perspective.

How much would a Scat 9000 cost to ship to Sweden. Eagle has a "ESP" crank out that might be worth looking into as well. But if you dont want get charged an arm and a leg, i think you will be ok with your stock. Just dont live it up in the higher rpm range TOO long.

 

you already have forged i beam rods. i'd spend my money on prepping the crank, rods, and block and not stronger parts to offset poor machining, balancing, and fitting.

 

Yea what does Sweden have in terms of machine shops?

 

The block is going to be bored 0.30, honed with torque plate installed, cleaned, new cam bearings, and main bearings are going to be installed. All bearing clearance will be checked.
The rotating assembly will be balanced. All by a professional machine shop.
What do you mean about “prepp the crank” ?

Regards

 

tt

 

polished, the fillets radiused, straight, stress relieve, balanced there's a lot you can do to a crank other than the basic machine work most people do. talk to a shop that builds race engines.

 

doesnt a vette l98 have 4 bolt mains?

 

nope..