OK here's a question for all you tech guys..

Let's say I have a 70's 350 or 400 motor.

Then let's say I want to swap the Roller cam, lifters, retainers, and stuff from a late 80's small block.

What do I have to get done to the block to make this work?

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1980 Camaro, '88 Police 350 engine, Headers, full exhaust, completely redone, my baby!
1988 Iroc-Z L98, MSD 6a, Accel coil, K+N's, Airfoil, Coolant Bypass, Flowmaster, Gears, Late model Bose, I like the 80 better

 

I'm pretty sure you don't have to get anything done to the block. You'll have to get special lifters, they come linked in pairs so they won't rotate. And you'll need a cam button so the cam doesn't "walk". That's all I can think of for now.

Oh yeah, and you'll need different pushrods.

[This message has been edited by ViciousZ (edited March 08, 2001).]

 

if you could make the factory set up work i think the extra cost of machining would make it cheaper and easier by far to go with an after market roller set up.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

The factory's bizarre roller setup won't go into an older block, period. None of that stuff bolts up unless the block has the right provisions.

For several decades before the factory discovered rollers, the way the rest of us did them was to use lifters that have a link between them, and a cam button.

That's the way I have my curent motor set up: I have a Comp XR282HR "retrofit" cam in my 73 model block, with the Comp roller lifters, timing chain, cam button, and their 1102 1.6 roller rockers.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Forgive my ignorance as I am too poor to afford a roller block, but what is so different about the roller blocks that accomodate them for roller lifters? And do you have to use a "retro-fit" cam? I've always assumed the linked lifters and shortened pushrods however I did not expect machining....

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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 Trans Am T-tops
4-bolt main 350, performer intake, headers, Holley 650, T-5, hayes clutch, dual elec. fans and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
13.98 @ 101

 

I believe the '87 up blocks have tapped holes in the valley to hold a sheet metal "spider" in place. This spider holds the lifters in alignment and prevents them from rotating. Also, I am pretty sure the lifter bores are different for the newer blocks because the factory roller lifters are a different diameter than the older style lifters.

I run a retro setup also.

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89 IROC with lots o' stuff

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Aren't the lifter bores taller on the roller engines to make up for the taller lifters? The blocks have the provisions to bolt in the stuff that holds the lifters in place.

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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305 with 200,000 original miles!
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350 (ZZ430)
using primarily GMPP parts.
Short block sitting on a stand.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

ASE Certified Master Tech

 

Yea, on the GMs the lifter bores are taller and machined flat on the top, and then the bosses for the 'spider'. Theres also the cam plate to keep the cam from moving around rather than a cam button... something it took GM way too long to add.
I dunno about the lifters being different diameters though. Ill have to look into that one.