fuel tank removal
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 49
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From: Queens, NY
Car: 89 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4
fuel tank removal
I got an 89 Trans Am and I can't seem to get the gas tank out. I removed the heat shields, track bar and brace, and tank supporting straps. I can't manuever it out because the fuel filler neck gets in the way. I tried to disconnect my exhast pipe and muffler to give me more room but they are so rusted on its impossible to get it off. I think I'm gunna start cutting the part thats blocking the fuel filler neck from exiting. Any suggestions? And by the way, I got no money so I cant cut the exhast and replace it.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 3
From: San Diego, CA
Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
Sounds like you didn't drop the rearend down. Disconnect the lower end of the shocks and sway bar end links and let the rear end hang down as far as possible without bending the brake lines.
As for the exhaust you don't need to cut anything. Disconnect it at the cat, and swing the whole intermediate pipe/muffler assembly off to the side.
As for the exhaust you don't need to cut anything. Disconnect it at the cat, and swing the whole intermediate pipe/muffler assembly off to the side.
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 49
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From: Queens, NY
Car: 89 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4
IrocZ you were right. Now that i was disconnecting the rear shocks i got one off no problem but the other one won't come off. When I turn the nut the other side turns with it. I tried holding the other side with a pair of pliers but the screw still turns. Got anymore ideas on how to get that lower shock mounting nut off off? THANKS.
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 49
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From: Queens, NY
Car: 89 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4
wd-40 aint workin...should i just saw it off and get a new screw...do they sell those screws seperately...or should i just get new shocks...i dont even know when was the last time the people before me replaced the shocks...autozone got 2 for $40
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 49
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From: Queens, NY
Car: 89 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4
OK i did everything...i lowered the rear axle and took of the shocks and coils and i still cant get it out because of the fuel filler neck...How do i get the filler neck past that metal cut out? Did i miss something?
Originally posted by KingChris
OK i did everything...i lowered the rear axle and took of the shocks and coils and i still cant get it out because of the fuel filler neck...How do i get the filler neck past that metal cut out? Did i miss something?
OK i did everything...i lowered the rear axle and took of the shocks and coils and i still cant get it out because of the fuel filler neck...How do i get the filler neck past that metal cut out? Did i miss something?
Last edited by Morley; May 1, 2004 at 04:10 PM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 93
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From: Hershey PA
Car: '89 IROC Z
Engine: TPI 305
Transmission: T-5
The rear end has to be lowered to the point where you take the bracket that secures the rear brake hose amd remove it so the rear end can be lowered even further. You do not need to disconnect the brake hose from the line, however. After the tank straps are diconnected and all fuel lines are disconnected, you need to turn and tilt the tank at all kinds of angles and positions until you clear everything and the filler neck clears. It does take some patientence but it will come out.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Queens, NY
Car: 89 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4
Nope i tried everything...I think the exhaust is getting in the way..I tried swinging it out all the way to the right but the tank still wont clear it and let me turn it or bring it down enough to remove it or get the filler neck through that metal cut out. I was going to take off my wheel to give me more room to swing out my exhaust but my wheels have lug nut locks and i dont have the right fitting key. Does anyone know where to get the tool to remove a lug nut lock or a stripped lug nut? Maybe i can just disconnect the muffler and intermediate pipe but its rusted on there pretty good and i cant pull it apart. And does anyone have any other ideas on how to get this damn tank out? PLEASE HELP. I need this car for work. THANKS TO THOSE WHO REPLIED.
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9
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From: ohio
Car: 87 2.8 MPFI
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 700R4
definately take the exhaust out, if you can't take it loose from the convertor, then cut the U bolt hangers and try to push it out of the way. I've done it twice and had to take the exhaust out twice. The last time I did it, I went to the exhaust place had them replace from the convertor back, then when i got home all i had to do was unbolt it and pull it out. That way when your done, its simple to re install.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 49
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From: Queens, NY
Car: 89 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4
The u-bolt i was able to take off no problem but the pipes are stuck together. Can I just take off the wheel and shocks and coil and slide the exhaust out from the side.
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9
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From: ohio
Car: 87 2.8 MPFI
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 700R4
you might be able to do that, not sure about the parking brake cables. I remember that i took my brake lines apart at the "splitter" proprtional valve whatever you wanna call it, so i could drop my rear end even further down. If i remember right,
i jacked the rear up as high as i could get it, set jack stands under the frame of the car and lowered the jack. Then jack up the rear end and take everything loose, shocks, brake linevalve, the only thing still attached to my rear end was the drive shaft. Then lower the rear as much as you can. This might help the angle in which you take it out, but with the exhaust still attached it would create a big challenge. With the exhaust loose i think i changed my fuel pump in about 4 hours total. Good Luck and keep us informed.
i jacked the rear up as high as i could get it, set jack stands under the frame of the car and lowered the jack. Then jack up the rear end and take everything loose, shocks, brake linevalve, the only thing still attached to my rear end was the drive shaft. Then lower the rear as much as you can. This might help the angle in which you take it out, but with the exhaust still attached it would create a big challenge. With the exhaust loose i think i changed my fuel pump in about 4 hours total. Good Luck and keep us informed.
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From: Cumberland, RI
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 86
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From: knoxville tn
Car: 1986 iroc Z-28
Engine: "LB-9" TPI 305
Transmission: 700-R-4
Axle/Gears: corporate 2:73-1
Re: fuel tank removal
unfortunately,,,,for us.the exhaust HAS to go .disconnect the shocks at the bottom and lower the rear axle .pray to your deity of choice and find that perfect angle twist it to the front as you guide it down trust me it is a hard job but it can be done, good luck.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: fuel tank removal
All that twisting & turning not good, be sure you don't stress the filler neck solder joint, check for small cracks. If air gets sucked in when the fuel cools off it will pull moister in and rust will begin to develop an soon find it's way into everything in the fuel system, and no the stock 40 micron filter won't filter it out. Just a precaution.
Re: fuel tank removal
Just got the tank back in. Dave Chambers nailed the deiscription. It is a lesson in patience trying to get the perfect rotation to get the filler neck past the body work but it can be done. I had to drop the rear end on the ground to get enough clearance. Now it's time for the MagnsFow!
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