I finally got a few updated pictures....I need to clean it up but you get the idea.

My belt routing is kinda unique. I completely deleted the pass side bracket. I like it. Opens up a lot of room to.

Pics don't do the car justice. It looks much better in person. I'm gonna clean it up and paint some stuff tomorrow to get it looking better. But you all get the idea.

 

Another...notice the pass side bracket is gone

 

This is the old-style alternator bracket that I used to make this work. Basically all I did was fine a way to adjust the alternator.

 

Shot of the carb...no choke at the moment since I will be doing lots of spring changed soon as I make it to the track. But its warm out and I actually like it better without it. Starts easy...doesnt even idle choppy.

 

Looks nice. Very inventive on the "custom" serpentine belt routing. Are you sure you've got enough "wrap" around the water pump pulley to keep it from slipping at high RPMs? Looks liek you're only contacting maybe 20% of the pulley.

Also, you may wish to consider running a coolant "bypass" hose from the intake manifold to the small water pump inlet (both of which you currently have plugged). Or from the intake manifold to the small heater hose fitting on the pass. side of the radiator. Both setups will serve the same basic function. Water pumps work best if they have a little flow going through them, especially before the thermostat begins to open. Alternatively, you could hook it back up through the heater core, but still omitting the stock diverter valve and the oodles of extra coolant hoses related to it.

 

Thats something i have always wondered. What percentage of the water pump pulley must come into contact with a serp. belt in order to prevent slippage at higher RPM's?

And what fuel filter is that?

 

i would have to say you would need more water pump pulley wrap around with the belt to prevent it from slipping at higher rpms....could be wrong but i dont know if id trust it myself .that fuel filter looks like an off the shelf one at wal-mart....

 

I have not noticed any slipping at high-rpms. Even if it does slip alittle how often to do run around at 4000rpm?

The belt has been like this for almost a year without a single problem. Same belt that has always been on it...haven't broke a belt or anything. it doesn't touch the pulley that much but it is tight as it can be. So it does well.

I always plug those lines in summer because I have had alot of heater core problems. I went through 3 in one winter for some reason. So in summer I just bypass it. Done this for 3 years. I got rid of the heater control valve along time ago.

What benefit will I see from hooking the water pump line to the intake? The way it is I never go above 180 degrees. And I am running a 180 thermostat, factory replacement radiator, WP, and a stock single fan.


The fuel filter is off the shelf from work (advance auto). It is just a universal 3/8'' line deal. Any parts store has them.

 

BTW I fixed the little rubber fuel line mess. I got some 3/8 flared line from work, a new holley dual feed line that took the flared fitting, then I found a 3/8 NPT to 3/8'' flare fitting adapter for my fuel pressure reg. Bent the 3/8 line up and connected it at the reg and fuel line. Now all the rubber line I have is the factory stuff. I feel safer now lol.

 

Did you bend the line starting from under teh car? I have the same issues after the TPI conversion with that rubber hose going across the engine bay that i'd like to get rid of . Please show some pics if you got them.

Thanks,
Matt

 

I will try to get some pics. I didn't touch the line that runs from the tank all I did was replace that rubber line with steel line and a new carb line that accepted a flare fitting.