Newbie:I just bougth this TransAm 305 LG4, -84. Somone who can recocnize div parts or other things I need to know on this pic? I know it has Edelbrock performer rpm and planed heads. But what airfilter, carb(see it?), and other things? Amcar are rare i Norway... Thankful for every tip...

 

this is just my opinion....but...im guessing that since it has a low profile air filter that they have a spacer between the carb and the intake. most likely a 1 in. i cant see the carb its self but it is mechanical.

 

Juse because it has a low profile air filter does not mean it has a carb spacer. In fact, i highly doubt it has one. I do recognize a Holley dual feed carburetor, eveident by the dual feed line. It looks like you need some headers. Other than that, it appears that you have a relativly stock engine.

 

Thanks. I was just in the garage. I picked off the air intake. There was no spacer. It WAS a Holley, and it has 2 fuelintake, yes. I couldnt see what type/size Holley it was. I saw this marked on side: 12R-10554B. Does this say anything to you?

About headers: I have a sport-exhaust from Simons( www.ray.se ), and no cat. It has a wonderful sound already. I think I shall use money first on ignition. Looks like everything is stock there(eksept for wires, high temp-8 mm)

Heads are planed and comp about 10,3.

 

I dont recognize the part number as a holley carb. Did you get the number off the air horn?

The air horn is the part thats circled in red. The actual part number is in the area that has been circled in blue.

I clicked on the link, but unfortunatly, i cannot understand what they are saying. Is it a full exhaust? Headers, cat back, etc? If so, that was a wise investment. The LG4 exhaust is painfully restrictive.

Considering as how you have a Holley carb, im willing to bet that the computer controls have been eliminated. As for ignitions, MSD, Mallory, Accell amongst others make a good HEI distributor with a good coil-in-cap design.

I dont know how proficient you are with cars and engines, but do you see a cam swap and head work in your future? You should have the #416 casting cylinder heads which have some very good flow potential after some do it yourself porting.

 

Judging by the vacuum advance HEI the computer has been eliminated.

 

Thanks. I remember it was a 4 suffix nr around that place you show on pic ( but I thougt that number was less important, those numbers looks "homemade" ). I shall take a look at it again. The Simons exhaust is all the way, until that part you change with headers( I dont know what you call that in English). Is "cat back" a catalysator? If so, I havent any. Only cars newer than 1989 must(law in Norway)have catalysator.

I shall comment more later, after checking Holley.

 

The "catalysator" you refer to is most likely the equivalent of the catalytic converter. A chunk of metal that looks like a funny looking egg welded/bolted into your exhaust.

Depending on how you look at it, there are a few main components that make up a "full exhaust." In most cases, assuming the factory routing was followed:

Headers
Y-yipe
Catalytic converter (if so desired/equipped)
If the converter is bypassed, a pipe is just welded in place
The rest of the exhaust then follows

By the term "cat back," what is in reference is the part of the exhaust system that bolts/welds into place immediatly after (downstream, so to speak) the converter.

That is the general components of a cat back exhaust system. That particular one is the Hooker cat back. Included is everything needed to replace your exhaust system from the cat converter back to the tips. hence the name "cat back."

From the first picture you posted, it appears that you have the factory log-style manifolds, not headers. So you would have the regular cat back. Adding headers would greatly compliment your cars overall performace and should be your first investment.

Those are your generic shorty style headers. They use a "y-pipe" that forms the 2 into 1 design that then leads to the converter/pipe. If you dont want to ditch your setup or dont want to go custom, i would suggest a decent set of shorty headers with a Y-yipe. They will then bolt up/weld up/slip fit to your existing exhaust system. Depending on emissions requirements, headers can be purchased with AIR tubes attached. But likewise, they can also be purchased without. Again, that hinges upon emissions requirements (or lack thereof).

 

Yeah, I'd get some headers first.. Don't bother upgrading the ignition, that coil-in-cap HEI should be more than enough for anything you need...

 

I hope someone can help me with this problem:

Since my last posting in this forum my car has been repaired at a workshop. They repaired the brakes and steering +++.
They also repaired/changed the gasket between the intake manifold (Performer Rpm) and the engine.(Reason: small oil-leak)

Distributorcap, rotor, ignitionwires and sparkplugs was also changed with new parts to ensure proper ignition.

But the engine performance is now very bad. It starts rapid and ok, idling is ok. But when driving, it feels lazy, and when I push kickdown, it hestitates and "vibrates" (like 1 or 2 sylinders are off..?). And I observe dark/brown (not blue) exhaust, after this kickdown. I can smell fuel too. If I drive f.ex. in 2 gear (locked) and drive in 3000 rpm, and then push kickdown, it accellerate much better. The fuel consum is high. I havent measured exactly, but I think about 8 miles/gallon? While kickdown I sometimes also hear a "boff"(just like it had a lean mixture), but since I definitely belive it get too much fuel / too rich mixture, can such "boff" also appear with rich mixture??

I will also mention that if I held my hand rigth back at the end of exhaust-pipe, and someone rev up the engine a bit (warm engine), I get brown and wet-spotted exhaust at my hand. That cant be right?? (I havent catalytic converter or any other anti-pollution system)
I discovered that the carb hasn`t choke (was removed- chokehorn is cut off). Nevertheless, when the engine is cold it starts and drive rather OK without any choke! (as long as I avoid too much gaspedal)

So far I would belive that the carb(Holley) must be bad or misfunctioning, giving way too rich mixture. Someone also told me that this model carb was a cheap and a bad carb. Comments?

I contacted holley.com (with pic of carb) and they could tell me this:
"The carb is a model/serie 4010, and we stopped delivery/sale of this model in -98. It is originally a vacuum secondary, but someone has installed a mecanical secondary linkage on it. The chokehorn is cut off and we cannot identify what cfm it has "

I have read that this is a improper and bad solution to convert a carb like this. Link: http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm (Read:How to switch from vacuum sec......)

BUT, can it be an another cause to this problem?
The workshop had to remove complete distributor when removing inlet manifold/gasket. When remounting the distributor they adjusted ignition timing correctly. But they wasnt 100% sure if the timing MARKS was stamped on engine was correct (if timingmark parts changed??)
Anyway, IF the ignition is too late/retard, can that alone cause these dramatic symptons??

I consider changing to a Edelbrock 600cfm serie1405 carb (new?rebuilt?) to cure this. But I still have a problem if ignition is wrong.

I complained to the workshop about this. They checked comp. in engine, it was ok on all sylinders. They discovered also that spark plugs had carbon/wet, like rich mix.

I will also mention that when I bougth the car I filled the fuel-tank with this fuel: 95 octane Shell V-power. It has carb/engine-cleaning qualities. Could this caused carb to get "mad"...?? Link: http://www.sm.shell.no/Bilist/vpower.cfm

Comments / help / tips ??

I will try to attach a pic of carb soon!