I...im totally disapointed....i though my 350 was a 4 bolt but it was a 2 bolt main....the block is a roller one with the 3 hole in the lifter gallery.....now...i wanna know what can i do with a 2 bolt main....what is the limit of this one...my goal was to had 450HP at the crank...is this possible...and it was a reliable engine??...

Scuse me...but im vey disapointed...plz tell me good news!!

 

Splayed caps

 

don't do anything with it. it'll be fine for your application

 

Build it. It should be fine at that power level.

If you're worried about it, put in aftermarket caps; they're vastly better than the factory stuff anyway.

 

i can put some aftermarket 4 bolt caps on it??? and what mean splayed???

 

Yes.

 

ok a big thanx to you guys!! im hapy now!!! and 450 with this type of main...i think there is no reliability problem!!...

And i have seen this on the web...someone talk about a "bowtie" block...what mean bowtie??

 

www.sdpc2000.com see GM Performance Engine Components

 

Eiher way with your stock block you'll have to pay the machine shop to install the new 4 bolt caps or splayed caps which will include line boring to true it all back up. Shop around for the splayed caps as they are alot stronger than typical 4 bolt mains as they leave more material in the webbing since they are drilled at an angle. You 2 bolt will be fine for 450hp, but if you want ot be extra sure either of the other caps styles will remove any doubt. If you scour the internet long enough and especially e-bay, you can usually come across splayed main caps very reasonably priced. I just traded a set of splayed I got off e-bay, think "I paid $68 for them.

So look at it this way, the 2 bolt was a blessing

 

Ok thnx guys....but if a wanna make a 383 stroker with my 350....i need to make place for the 400 crank i think?? because when it rotate it hurts the block..thats what ive seen on the internet....but if you already seen this...plz tell me more about it...a really want a good and reliable setup that can handle 700HP and the price is not a problem...

Thnx guys

 

My 388 waiting on the stand used a 4 bolt 350 block, 5.7 rods, and a 3.75 crank aka 400 crank wit the 3.75 stroke. Be sure whatever rods you go with weather R&R or aftermarket forged units are stroker clearanced and have the ARP bolts in them. I have zero clearance problems. I was even able to use a factory style pan. When I ordered my cam I had them grind it on a standard cam profile instead of the small base circle. The only issue with clearance was we had to rotate the motor somewhat to open up the passage way for the cam to slide in. If your shooting for 700hp definately go with splayed main caps, all forged rotating assembly and if your budget allows an aftermarket block would be a wise choice also so the shortblock would be bullet proof. Not too often you ever see motor problems with the shortblock, most motor failures are due to valvtrain related issues and this is wehre all your power comes from anyways, so dont skinmp there either.

 

Thnx IHI....im in question now....i'll make a 355 or a 383...this is my big question...i throw my block to a machine shop in a few day and i just wanna know all the thing that i had to do...

and...there is something to do with my LG4 and the rest of my 350 engine?? (crank piston rod) i wanna do a "frankeshtein" engine with my other parts to put in a S-10 pick-up

 

I tell ya, the best thing you can do is talk with the guys at the machine shop your going to. These guys do this everyday and can tell you exactly what will work with what and for what. I know the few "trusted" shops we go to around here have tackled just about everything under the sun and have put many different combinations together so they've seen what parts compliment each other depending on application.

If you were going to build a bad-azz motor you like plan, they have a price sheet with boil and bakeing the block, decking, lin honing, boring/boring with torque plate and the list goes on and on and on. I would try to get the block ready to be completely ready to go and bullet proofed. If your going stroker there will be spots they will have to grind on the lower cylinder walls for clearance, sometimes into the pan rail, and if you go with a big duration cam like 300+advertised then the pistons become a factor since the valve will be hanging open longer you'll either buy a cheap set of slugs then have to get them fly cut to clear the valves if you can's adjust the cam enough to remedy the problem, or buy a high$$$ set of pistons and the likely hood of having clearance problems will be greatly reduced.

Waay to many things to consider when you wanna start making real power. You can do a 500hp sbc pretty easy and make it reliable. Once you start getting around the 600hp range is when things start getting a little more detailed. Keep this in mind, make the shortblock as stout as you can afford, but keep in mind the cam/heads is where literally all the power is made so that's where your going to spend some serious cash. I know plenty of guys running basically stock bottom ends but have really nice heads and a good cam easily running low 11's in 3500# cars. They usually run'em a season and freshen up the short block to be sure it's still alright.

LOL, enough jabbering comes back to...talk to the guys going to be doing the work for you.

If you have the block disassembled, now would be a great time to take and champer?sp out the oil return holes in the front/back of the block for better oil return. Polish up the lifter valley, you could have them paint it too before it goes in for boring, but once you polish it, it's done forever and you never have to worry about paint flaking off.