Will this work?? i hear it would buuuut......you know how that goes....

What all is needed to convert.??

pump.
afpr (already have)
line (have)

yes the tank is out of the car....yes i have a carbed style tank assembly......

speaking of which is the carbed style strainers in the tank replaceable? or can ya clean it with acetone... :O prolly turn it into mush if i do that (step dads idea) *acetone cleans anything* "Me: Suuuuure pops"

do i need any Roller type rod to work the mechanical pump?

does the LT1 cam even have a mechanical pump lobe?

Which is more efficiant: Mechanical or an external electric?

 

Ive never even heard of a roller pump rod. Im about 90% sure there is no lobe for the pump on the LT1 cam. Actually now that i think about it i think those blocks had a cast in blockoff plate.

 

like i said....i *heard* know how that goes.....as for a roller cam from comp cams or whatever.....they |MAY have a mechanical pump lobe.....but i dont see why a gm lt1 cam would have one...

 

THey make bronze tip fuel pump rods for billet rollers. Doesn't seem to be entirely necessary though. I think Crower is one source.

Wouldn't be an issue with some stock cam though.

Yes acetone, or MEK or lacquer thinner, will clean the screen, somewhat at least. Won't dissolve it either.

Rod the pickup tube out with a coat hanger wire or something.... let us know what comes out when you do that.

 

lol uhm....which pick up tube....the one that has the strainer on it?

so i take it the strainer is removable?? mine looks to be made to the fuel line :O

unless theres some other pick up line.,...

 

Nope, that's the one.

Every one I've ever seen is a round plastic thing kind of jammed onto the end of the tube. Maybe yours is different, I don't know. Maybe there's just so much crusties built up on it that it looks like it's all one piece.

 

yah....this one is metal....no platic on it (cept for the strainer itself)

so any fuel pump rod will work.... do i need any type of break in oil or anything like that?

which is more efficiant...mechanical or electric?

both will end up costing close to the same....the electric would be A LOT easier to install vrs running the lines under, around over belts to the fuel pump then to the carb........

will the stocker style fuel filter handle 110-140 gph????????????

also.....id just stick the compressor to the line...to hell with a wire heh

 

Any fuel pump rod (for SBC that is) will work. If you plan on extended high RPMs, get a lightweight one, such as from Moroso.

A mech fuel pump is cheap. A stock one is about $12. Good to around 400-450 HP.

Put some white lithium or moly grease on the ends of it before you put it on.

Factory fuel lines in carbed thridgens cross over the trans tunnel about 5-6" back of the firewall, and run along the "frame" to the pump.

Hard to say.... the stock carb fuel filter goes in the carb inlet nut. Probably not. There's lots of other styles that probably would.

Waste of time. Try a wire. You probably won't believe your eyes.

 

well were talking about a 91 rs that was carbed by me......wasnt originally a carbed car......plus im looking for a 110+ gph fuel pump so mechanical itll be about 70 dollars + 20 for the rod.

can get a summit electric 140 gph pump for $110......


so the question is, is the mechanical more efficient...and worth the effort itll take to run fuel line all around the tranny or what not.

vrs

electric pump, mount on the fire wall......use pre existing lines then go from there with rubber.

my friends LT1 cam has 16 lobes, not 17. so....chances are...mine has 16 as well......only way i will know is pull the block off plate off and feel up in there......

 

What kind of power are you using that requires 110+ gph fuel delivery? As RB said, a factory replacement is good to about 450 or so HP.

As for physically feeling the fuel pump lobe, unless you have 4" fingers that are pencil thin, you wont be able to physically reach up there, as the pump pushrod is roughyl 4" long or so. I guess you could always put the rod up there and have a buddy hand rotate the engine (or starter interrupt) and, while firmly placing the rod against the cam, see if something pushes it as the engine rotates. Im sure that there is another way or so of determining, shy of actually pulling the cam and visually inspecting it. What cam are you using?

Also, it isn't like your typical "lobe" design that has opening and closing ramp rates. Rather it is just a circle whos centerline is offset from the camshaft centerline.

 

well.....my car has roughly 330 hp as it is.......and i plan on running a 125 shot on it .......

*stock* my car has a in tank electric pump... so im replacing the in tank pump with an external electric so i dont ever have to drop the tank again....

id rather spend 50 extra dollars for assurance that i will have more than enough fuel flow and know that i NEVER have to drop the tank again

besides.......everything ive done to my car.....i have aimed for better than stock performance......im not about to cheap out on the fuel pump.....

after the pump its getting a full new ignition....... as to which ignition...who knows... i like the accel 300+ due to its options that come standard on the box rather than buying a crane...then having to buy 2 different modules to get what i want it to do...when the 300+ comes with a 2 stage rev limiter, retard....etc etc.

like i said...im planning to run a nitrous set up.....so to hell with a stock in tank pump

i was just thinking mechanical cause its a lil bit cheaper....but in the long run itd be harder to run the mechanical due to the cars fuel lines being the standard tbi type lines.....altho its carb now...
itd be more difficult running those lines to the mechanical pump...vrs running them to the firewall to an electric pump...
i think ill just shell out the extra 20 bucks......get the 140 gph summit pump.....vrs a 70 dollar mechanical then 20 for the push rod.....