It certainly appears to be a bolt-on in every way, so I bought one to replace my existing starter that's dying (got a dead-spot in it).

It certainly appears it will fit like original and has appropriate electrical connections, but I wanted to double-check with you guys before I bolted it on and started pulling by hair out.

 

Ive read on here thats lots of 3rdgeners use them with no catch. I would have liked to know they fit before I order my mutant toyota starters.

 

No problems with mine at all. I did have to use a couple of washers because the stock bolts were too long.

 

i used a 96 LT1 starter. the stock 350 starter bolts were too long.
i bought some new bolts from the dealership.

 

What do you mean by a "dead spot"? If it is not engaging in one spot your flexplate may be shot as well.... I ruined a couple of flexplates with my aftermarket gear reduction starter before I was able to figure out the problem. .080 machined off the mounting pad took care of that problem....

 

I'm running an Lt1 starter on my car and didn't have any problems. I used the same stater bolts that they use on the Lt1 cars. They are cheap new. The only other things was my wiring didn't exactly reach so I had to pull it a little to get it to reach. I just made sure there was enough slack in it for movement.

 

im running a SBC starter on a LT1...it itll work one way itll work the other

 

The "dead spot" is when the starter motor gets a spot that for whatever reason the power won't flow through it to start spinning. It think the brushes get a little worn, or get some crud on them and when the starter motor stops in a certain position they don't make good contact. Tap the starter medium hard with a wrench, they make contact again and you can start the motor..... until the next time it stops in the same spot. It always leaves you stuck in a parking lot at the most inconvenient time.

Nothing wrong with the flexplate, solenoid, bendix or spur gear. Just sometimes won't crank over until you bang on the side of the starter.

 

Thanks for the info, guys.

BTW- I'm not sure why you guys who had original 350 starters needed shorter bolts for the LT-1 starter. My 350-length starter bolts work just fine (I had an extra set laying around). The original 305 starter bolts are definitely too short for the LT-1 starter.

I just spent about 15 minutes mesuring the LT-1 starter, original 350 starter and original 305 starter next to eachother on the bench. The distance from the starter bolt head flange to the main mounting flange (the distance that the bolts are passing through the starter housing) is identical between the LT-1 starter and original 350 starter for both bolts. The 305 starter is shorter on both bolts by about 1/4."

Remember that starter bolts are supposed to have about 1/4" of the alignment shank stick into the block to line everything up correctly. The threads in the block don't start right on the starter flange surface- they're recessed inside the block about 3/8."

 

what year lt1 starter did you use?

the 92-94 models are NOT the same as 95+.

the 95-97 are a different style. they use the shorter bolts.

just look them up at an auto parts store.

 

That starter swap is a slam dunk Damon.

For those with 153 tooth flexplates, www.turbobuicks.com has a killer price on these exact starters. $125 shipped IIRC for new starters with the bolts included. I've had mine for awhile now with no issues on my high compression motor.

HTH

 

mystikkal- that could explain it. I asked for a 1993 LT-1 starter and it fits just fine with standard earlier 350 starter bolts.

Paid $130 for mine with core exchange (I gave them back the old 305 starter after asking if it would be OK to return a dissimilar starter for the core. My parts place works with me and had no problem doing it.)