Timing for speed density...help
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Timing for speed density...help
I installed a new msd distributor a little while ago. I checked the timing today and it was 40 degrees. Reset it to 15 with a max of 35. However, when at wot it feels like there is a strong crosswind pushing against the car. Not getting all the power. Was I supposed to disconnect the tan wire for electronic spark? I cant find it. I am almost sure I dont have that hooked up as I have speed density instead of MAF. If so, then where do I find this wire? Anyone got a pic?
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
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You need to unplug the EST wire. IIRC, its a tan wire back by the firewall. I beleive it's by the heater box. This takes the ECM out of the equation as you set the timing (the ECM cannnot adjust the timing if the tan wire is unplugged in other words, i think it throws a code as well if the EST wire is unhooked, so you may have to clear a code afterwards). Once it's unplugged, set the base timing, hook it up and go.
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
On my 91 Formula it's in front of the AC/heater box on the passenger side and the connector is in-line right behind that side's strut tower where it's crossing over the tower and heading towards the motor. Hope this helps.....
- Vern
- Vern
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OK...thanks guys. I didnt think I still had EST hooked up. I thought it was eliminated when I switched to speed density and the new painless harness. I will look for it.
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Originally posted by Dr.NickRiviera
omcrider posted this pic in another thread, so i'll just copy it here.
omcrider posted this pic in another thread, so i'll just copy it here.
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Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
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Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
You need to disconnect it to set the base timing so the computer is not trying to correct or change it while you're mioving the distributor. Also, base timing is supposed to be 6 degrees. That number is used as the base by the ECM to determine how much advance to use for various engine load (vacuum/MAP readings) timing needs. If you're running more than 6BTDC base, then when the computer thinks it is using 35BTDC then you're actually forcing the engine to run with 44* if you set the base to 15*. Can you say detonation??? The max timing (and all timing points in between) is controlled through the computer and prom you're using. I'm using speed density on my 383 SuperRam setup and am using the $8D mask in a 7730 computer. Are you still using all the computer gear? If so, where did your prom come from? Do it yourself or buy a 3rd party or stock? E-mail me or PM me if you want and we can chat more offline on this topic. I won't claim to be an expert, but maybe I can help a little bit. With these computer setups we just can't do timing settings like the old carb days....
- Vern
- Vern
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Originally posted by vernw
You need to disconnect it to set the base timing so the computer is not trying to correct or change it while you're mioving the distributor. Also, base timing is supposed to be 6 degrees. That number is used as the base by the ECM to determine how much advance to use for various engine load (vacuum/MAP readings) timing needs. If you're running more than 6BTDC base, then when the computer thinks it is using 35BTDC then you're actually forcing the engine to run with 44* if you set the base to 15*. Can you say detonation??? The max timing (and all timing points in between) is controlled through the computer and prom you're using. I'm using speed density on my 383 SuperRam setup and am using the $8D mask in a 7730 computer. Are you still using all the computer gear? If so, where did your prom come from? Do it yourself or buy a 3rd party or stock? E-mail me or PM me if you want and we can chat more offline on this topic. I won't claim to be an expert, but maybe I can help a little bit. With these computer setups we just can't do timing settings like the old carb days....
- Vern
You need to disconnect it to set the base timing so the computer is not trying to correct or change it while you're mioving the distributor. Also, base timing is supposed to be 6 degrees. That number is used as the base by the ECM to determine how much advance to use for various engine load (vacuum/MAP readings) timing needs. If you're running more than 6BTDC base, then when the computer thinks it is using 35BTDC then you're actually forcing the engine to run with 44* if you set the base to 15*. Can you say detonation??? The max timing (and all timing points in between) is controlled through the computer and prom you're using. I'm using speed density on my 383 SuperRam setup and am using the $8D mask in a 7730 computer. Are you still using all the computer gear? If so, where did your prom come from? Do it yourself or buy a 3rd party or stock? E-mail me or PM me if you want and we can chat more offline on this topic. I won't claim to be an expert, but maybe I can help a little bit. With these computer setups we just can't do timing settings like the old carb days....
- Vern
Tanks for the offer to help. I will pm you. I am using the 7730 with a custom chip. All I asked them for as far as timing goes was that I wanted a total of 36-40. What they set my base timing at I dont know and I cant find out. They didnt send me a paper telling me what they did on the chip or anything.
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Originally posted by Stekman
You need to unplug the EST wire. IIRC, its a tan wire back by the firewall. I beleive it's by the heater box. This takes the ECM out of the equation as you set the timing (the ECM cannnot adjust the timing if the tan wire is unplugged in other words, i think it throws a code as well if the EST wire is unhooked, so you may have to clear a code afterwards). Once it's unplugged, set the base timing, hook it up and go.
You need to unplug the EST wire. IIRC, its a tan wire back by the firewall. I beleive it's by the heater box. This takes the ECM out of the equation as you set the timing (the ECM cannnot adjust the timing if the tan wire is unplugged in other words, i think it throws a code as well if the EST wire is unhooked, so you may have to clear a code afterwards). Once it's unplugged, set the base timing, hook it up and go.
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From: Bay Area California
Car: Purple Haze Metallic 92RS
Engine: Super-ram 383cid
Transmission: race prep 700R4
If you absolutley can't find the wire than one thing you can try is jumping pins A and B on the ALDL to put the car in diagnostic mode. Start the car and set the timing that way. It should work the same. (at least it did on my SD car)
-Mike
-Mike
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Originally posted by Max_Maro92
If you absolutley can't find the wire than one thing you can try is jumping pins A and B on the ALDL to put the car in diagnostic mode. Start the car and set the timing that way. It should work the same. (at least it did on my SD car)
-Mike
If you absolutley can't find the wire than one thing you can try is jumping pins A and B on the ALDL to put the car in diagnostic mode. Start the car and set the timing that way. It should work the same. (at least it did on my SD car)
-Mike
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From: Bay Area California
Car: Purple Haze Metallic 92RS
Engine: Super-ram 383cid
Transmission: race prep 700R4
Starting the car in diagnostic mode will in no way harm the ECM (in fact it's necissary to set minimum air) Weather or not it will work in your case I'm not sure. Since your car is a conversion I don't know exactly what to tell you, all I can say is give it a shot, cause even if it doesn't work it won't hurt anything to try.
-Mike
-Mike
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