Weird problem. I don't know if it's a coincidence or not, but it's weird. Okay, here's the problem. I was at the grocery store the other night, I started my car (the car was not cold, it was warm from driving earlier) put it into reverse, and started to pull it out, turned, then the car just died. No shaking, nothing, just died. Of course, the engine light came on. I don't know how to get codes, so don't ask. So, I started it again, went on, everything was fine. I was driving it today, pulled it into the garage. About 20 minutes later, I started the car, put it in reverse, started to turn, the car dies the exact way it did before. Engine light, of course. Started it back up, went on, with no problems. The car has also recently begun to just "click" once when you turn the key and does not start. It will do this about 2 times, then just all of a sudden start. I know it's not the battery, becasue my voltage is good, and I jump started a girl at my school's big 'ol Dodge truck the other day. Anyone know what the problem could be?

Thanks.

 

Anyone?

 

It could be something as stupid as a vaccuum line. Have you looked at those? If they're dryrotted and don't seal from port to port, they could cause your car to die just as you described.

 

definately sounds like a vac leak. What kind of car, injection and how many miles?

 

Well, first off, if the car runs fine after being re-started, gas milage ok, not rough running or anything, just dies in reverse when warm, I seriously doubt the possibility of a vac leak (now this is what I interpret him as describing his problem)

Do you back your car up just about everytime you start it warm? If so, it may not be reverse having anything to do with it. Try always "pulling through" in parking spaces so you can start out going foward and see if it stikll has the problem. If it doesn't, something strange is happening in your transmission (improper shifting/clutch release/who knows! I guess a tranny specialist) Anyways if not, it coule be any of several problems. First off, lets see about that code (if any, since if the engine dies, but the key is in the "run position" the light is usually on) I can tell ya as long as you don't have an ODBII car (I think '95 or newer) to the right of the fuse area on the drivers side hush panel, near the center console, you should see a removable plate. Remove it to expose the ALDL connector. Use a paper clip or piece of conducting material to short pins 5 and 6 as illistrated below:
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12
The SES light should flash once then twice 3 times, illistrating Code 12 if code 12 persists, than there are no stored codes, otherwise it will start to spout off the stored codes.

Please post all info about the car (year/model)

One more thing, just on a guess, if you have a fuel injected car, try and get ahold of a fuel pressure gauge. When you initially put the key to the "run" position, the fuel pump will turn on for 2 secs, and pressurize the fuel system. First try and clamp off the fuel pressure line (at the flexible part) and see if pressure holds, if it does, than you have a problem with your fuel pump coupling hose, or the pump itself. If it doesn't hold (Which I doubt it will) now pinch off the return line. If pressure now holds, you have a bad fuel pressure regulator. Again, I don't think it will hold. If it doesn't, you have some leaky fuel injectors. In fact, by the description, very leaky fuel injectors, that sommetimes nearly cause a hydrolic lock. (which is bad) Most injectors can be cleaned into functioning properly, chech www.cruzinperformance.com if this is your problem. Post the results!


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Corry Lazarowitz
clazarow@voicenet.com
clazarowitz@hotmail.com
SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3" cat back (stock cat )MSD ignition. MSD Blaster SS coil. More soon when funds are avail...

 

My car is a 1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI. It's got 130,000 miles on it and the only thing i've done to it is put an open element on. I did plug the vacuum port. I did notice that when I turned the car back on the first time it died, I did hear a sort of high pitch whining noise like a pump, but It usually does it when I turn it on but it's quieter.

 

Throttle Position Sensor. very much improved throttle response time now too. Thanks for your help.