When I first start the car in the morning (not now in the summer) it will tick for a few sec ( it is not coming from the motor) I am pretty sure it is coming from hear. Could this thing malfunction and cause the car to backfire on decell? thanksIt has a vac line runnig to it.

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

 

Black Z,

You might have a small exhaust leak at the pivot points of the valve shaft. As the manifold and shaft begin to warm up and expand, the leak gets sealed to the point you can no longer hear the "tick".

It's a theory...

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

My car sounds like it has a cracked flexplate because of the stupid heat riser! It's annoying, but goes away after about a half minute. Bad thing is that I pulled the trans to make sure, before I realized what it was for sure! Oh well, just another couple hours spent with my car :-) gotta love that!

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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305 with 200,000 original miles!
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350 (ZZ430)
using primarily GMPP parts.
Short block sitting on a stand.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

ASE Certified Master Tech

 

It is a normally-open valve. Take the vacuum line off and plug it. Then recheck for your symptoms.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, TBD heads ported & polished, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

 

Can I take the little "door off inside of there and just weld the holes shut? if not how can I keep it from leaking there? they are about a 100 bucks new so I really don't want to spend that right now.

 

Black Z,

You could abandon the valve in place and weld the pivot shaft in place to prevent leaks. Warmup would be a little slower, but not a serious problem. Remember that the shaft is steel and the manifold and "valve body" is cast iron. If you don't have nickel rod to weld it, you might be better off with brazing it.

Also remember that the valve plate will still be stuck in the exhaust stream, hopefully fully opened, but still slightly impeding flow. Given that, and the fact that welding or brazing it in place would be difficult at best, you might want to remove the manifold, remove the valve, and weld the holes shut. Personally, I'd might use it as an excuse to install some coated headers and eliminate the leak permanently (I know, headers have their own leakage problems).

If you don't want to spring for headers right now, at least spend a few bucks for a jar of anti-seize, and don't be afraid to use it on every bolt you take apart and install. You'll appreciate your forsight later.

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Vader, I already have edelbrock headers on the car, They still use this piece, is it for emmisons? will I fail if I remove it?

 

So for the 80 doallars this thing cost from gm, I should just weld right? is there any other problems that might arise? Thanks

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

 

Should I leave the vac line connected? if not what should I do with it? thanks

 

It may be $80 from GM; it's less than half that from a reputable parts source. Unfortunately the aftermarket ones are all "universal", such that they fit both sizes of exhaust; so if your car has the large exhaust, it's a major restriction, unless you take a die grinder to it and get rid of its compatibility with the 2" pipe.

What I did to mine in addition to the above mod was to remove the shaft, tap the holes to 1/8" pipe, and use steel pipe plugs. I cut their square heads off and made screwdriver slots in them so I wouldn't have big things sticking out.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited April 20, 2001).]

 

That was what I was thinking maybe I could tap them and put a plug and some sealant on them, how did it work? ANd 1/8th inch is what i want?