Is a Comp Cam really worth it versus a Summit cam?
Is a Comp Cam really worth it versus a Summit cam?
Sure, I'd expect something like an Extreme energy cam to be better than the generic Summit cams, but how much difference are we talking here?
It just seems like too much of a price difference to justify going with the Comp cam. I mean, for about 80 bucks, you get a cam and lifters from Summit. For 100 bucks, you get JUST the cam from Comp, then you have to buy the other (expensive) components from them or else the warranty is void.
I think I'd rather save the money for something else unless I really had a lot of cash to dump into the car (like that'll ever happen!!
)
It just seems like too much of a price difference to justify going with the Comp cam. I mean, for about 80 bucks, you get a cam and lifters from Summit. For 100 bucks, you get JUST the cam from Comp, then you have to buy the other (expensive) components from them or else the warranty is void.
I think I'd rather save the money for something else unless I really had a lot of cash to dump into the car (like that'll ever happen!!
) TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
What do you want to get out of your car performance wise? That will ultimatly determine whether or not any mod is actually "worth it."
Do you have anything doen to the exhaust? Headers, high flow cat, catback? If not, start there.
Do you have anything doen to the exhaust? Headers, high flow cat, catback? If not, start there.
Pretty much it.
What's your goal? Depending on what you're expecting it to do pretty much dictates where you're going to get it from.
If it happens to be an injected motor, that 'll rule out the Summit piece.
What's your goal? Depending on what you're expecting it to do pretty much dictates where you're going to get it from.
If it happens to be an injected motor, that 'll rule out the Summit piece.
Well this is still in the planning phase, but we're talking a carbureted, flat tappet style motor.
I've thought about going the roller-cam route with a later engine, but I don't know if I'd actually do that unless one just fell into my lap by way of local ad or something.
Mainly I just was interested to know if anyone had done an "A" to "B" swap between the Summit and Comp cam, and how big was the difference, and was it worth the extra cash.
I've thought about going the roller-cam route with a later engine, but I don't know if I'd actually do that unless one just fell into my lap by way of local ad or something.
Mainly I just was interested to know if anyone had done an "A" to "B" swap between the Summit and Comp cam, and how big was the difference, and was it worth the extra cash.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
We're kind of going in circles here.
What do you want to get out of the engine? Ignore all the cam crap, ignore all that other stuff. Just, what do you want to get out of your engine?
Once you have established that, I think we can better determine which. But most of the time for something on a budget or a motor to pass time by until a bigger/better roller is built, they [Summit grinds] do fine.
What do you want to get out of the engine? Ignore all the cam crap, ignore all that other stuff. Just, what do you want to get out of your engine?
Once you have established that, I think we can better determine which. But most of the time for something on a budget or a motor to pass time by until a bigger/better roller is built, they [Summit grinds] do fine.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Pick the cam that fits your budget.
A summit cam and lifter set gives you a lot of bang for the $$$'s.
Sure a comp XE grind may have a slightly more "intense lobe" and create (a potential for) 5 more hp but this intense lobe also requires a better valve spring and will create more wear over time. the higher the rate of lift/seat duration spec, the more wear on valvetrain components. Just plain physics. the actual valve motion off seat in an actual running engine is also affected by the oil pressure/viscosity in a hydraulic lifter which most people forget about when looking at the numbers.
The Summit,Federal Mogul, Blue Racer, "old school generic" grinds are time tested designs that give good performance and are easy(ier) on the valvetrain.
The cam is only one component in a engine build up.
Put the money where it will do the most good.
A motor with good or improved heads (porting,larger valves) and a summit cam will make more power than a Comp xe cam and a stock head.
Its all about total airflow when looking for extra performance. Don't overlook the exhaust system.
If you can afford the extra cost of a XE series cam go for it, but plan on a valvespring upgrade and pay attention to details on the breakin. i recomend a cam of GM "E.O.S."
be added the the engine oil now a-days for any flat tappet cammed motor. Best $7 you'll spend on preventing start up wear.
A summit cam and lifter set gives you a lot of bang for the $$$'s.
Sure a comp XE grind may have a slightly more "intense lobe" and create (a potential for) 5 more hp but this intense lobe also requires a better valve spring and will create more wear over time. the higher the rate of lift/seat duration spec, the more wear on valvetrain components. Just plain physics. the actual valve motion off seat in an actual running engine is also affected by the oil pressure/viscosity in a hydraulic lifter which most people forget about when looking at the numbers.
The Summit,Federal Mogul, Blue Racer, "old school generic" grinds are time tested designs that give good performance and are easy(ier) on the valvetrain.
The cam is only one component in a engine build up.
Put the money where it will do the most good.
A motor with good or improved heads (porting,larger valves) and a summit cam will make more power than a Comp xe cam and a stock head.
Its all about total airflow when looking for extra performance. Don't overlook the exhaust system.
If you can afford the extra cost of a XE series cam go for it, but plan on a valvespring upgrade and pay attention to details on the breakin. i recomend a cam of GM "E.O.S."
be added the the engine oil now a-days for any flat tappet cammed motor. Best $7 you'll spend on preventing start up wear.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Which quarterback do you want on your team: the $10 million pro bowler, or the $160k undrafted free agent?
The cam is your engine's quarterback. You may be able to argue the same peak torque & HP from either cam, but which one has the better idle, better mid-range, etc. And, it is also possible that the more expensive one is the one that's actually easier on the rest of the drivetrain.
Personally, I think I've purchased my last generic cam. But, the salary cap does have a way of playing a part in these decisions.
The cam is your engine's quarterback. You may be able to argue the same peak torque & HP from either cam, but which one has the better idle, better mid-range, etc. And, it is also possible that the more expensive one is the one that's actually easier on the rest of the drivetrain.
Personally, I think I've purchased my last generic cam. But, the salary cap does have a way of playing a part in these decisions.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Well, you need to put together a complete package. A great cam will be a dog with poor exhaust. It may not work at all with stock springs and retainers.
Just like you wouldn't want to put that $10 million QB behind a 2nd string line, you don't want to spend all your money in one place and ignore the rest of the engine.
The cost of performance is not linear.
Just like you wouldn't want to put that $10 million QB behind a 2nd string line, you don't want to spend all your money in one place and ignore the rest of the engine.
The cost of performance is not linear.
Basically there's not a thing wrong with Summit cams. My son's running one in his Spirit.
Again it's all in the application and your intended goal.
In my daily driver, I needed to use a Comp XE custom grind since there's nothing off the shelf that's compatible with a computer controlled bored/stroked Jeep inline 6.
Again it's all in the application and your intended goal.
In my daily driver, I needed to use a Comp XE custom grind since there's nothing off the shelf that's compatible with a computer controlled bored/stroked Jeep inline 6.
Well, my general plans go something like this...
Start with the 305 / 5-speed combo. Use the 305 as a "practice" motor to gain experience; I have a lot of theoretical knowledge but little actual hands on experience. I'd take the heads off the 305 and do some basic porting (which I've done before). I'd also want to get an aftermarket intake. I'd install headers, but probably couldn't justify the cost of the cat-back system; I'd ghetto rig something instead
I don't plan to fool with the cam/valvetrain of the 305, because I'd just be using that motor as a stepping stone. The mods I plan would either be low buck with elbow grease, or mods that are transferrable to a 350.
When I'm ready for the 350, I'll probably go with either a running motor bought locally, or a base crate engine. I'd put the ported 305 heads on initially along with the other bolt on stuff. Eventually I'd like to have some aftermarket aluminum heads on the engine. I've been looking at Edelbrock "E-tec". Then of course, there's the cam upgrade, and we're back to where this story started
Start with the 305 / 5-speed combo. Use the 305 as a "practice" motor to gain experience; I have a lot of theoretical knowledge but little actual hands on experience. I'd take the heads off the 305 and do some basic porting (which I've done before). I'd also want to get an aftermarket intake. I'd install headers, but probably couldn't justify the cost of the cat-back system; I'd ghetto rig something instead
I don't plan to fool with the cam/valvetrain of the 305, because I'd just be using that motor as a stepping stone. The mods I plan would either be low buck with elbow grease, or mods that are transferrable to a 350.
When I'm ready for the 350, I'll probably go with either a running motor bought locally, or a base crate engine. I'd put the ported 305 heads on initially along with the other bolt on stuff. Eventually I'd like to have some aftermarket aluminum heads on the engine. I've been looking at Edelbrock "E-tec". Then of course, there's the cam upgrade, and we're back to where this story started
Yes, you can get good flow numbers out of 305 heads (LG4s anyway). I don't know what the runner size is, but it's probably small, like 150 cc.
But that's not too big a problem on a 350 that still has its stock cam; it's done making power by 5000 rpm anyways.
But that's not too big a problem on a 350 that still has its stock cam; it's done making power by 5000 rpm anyways.
Okay, 165. Still on the smallish side when compared to many aftermarket street heads. 180 is mostly what I've seen, then more serious heads up in the 200, 210, 220 range.
Still, 165 is enough volume for running under 5500 rpm I'd guess.
Still, 165 is enough volume for running under 5500 rpm I'd guess.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
Likes: 1
From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
I know, i never said it was. You said 416 heads had a small by factory standards port size, which is incorrect. I corrected you by saying that they were 165cc among the biggest.
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