Well i am planning on putting in a lt1 cam, and would like to replace the stock timming chain. But i have noticed that the stock timing chain is some how stuck on too the crank at the bottom pulley. And was woundering is it hard to remove and replace??

 

its not too bad, a 3 jaw puller, and it is off of there. installing is basicly brute force, you just need ot make sure that it gets on there all the way, so your chain lines up nicely.

 

Cool, What is a nice brand of a timming chain?

 

Anything that is a roller design. Both roller designs for that matter. Make sure it is a rolller link design and designed for a factory roller motor. Most auto parts stores should carry them. Just avoid any of the "factory replacement" type chains. They are the crappy, not so good kind. If I had to choose a brand, I generally get them from major camshaft companies. I've personally used Comp and Isky on the Camaro's engine. I have a Cloyes on my Caprice. But again, any parts stores should carry a good roller timing chain.

As for installation of the crank sprocket, I've done a few methods. The first time I used some form of installation tool. The second, I took a wooden dowel and gently tapped it on, working around in a circle (only because I didn't have that tool).

 

FWIW, the summit brand double roller timing set is $40 and with a side by side comparison, is identical down to the casting marks, as the $110 CompCams timing set.

 

What part number are you looking at for the Comp set.

 

the summit part is:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6CB6BF6C96A%7D

Comp part:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6CB6BF6C96A%7D

 

I wonder where the 275% markup from summit to comp occurs.

 

So a double roller timing chain will work perfect?

 

yup

 

any suggestions on a timing chain an sproket for my L69 H.O I am butting in a power max Crane cam, if that makes any differance.:lala: :lala:

 

Onley, get the kind that fits your year (which would make it a non-factory roller design.

 

I did not know if the roller would work for both. Your link from summit did not include my 84Z so it poped a question in my head.
Thanks

 

Is dyna gear a good brand, Has anyone heard of it?

 

I think ill buy that summit one that dewey showed. Would you suggest a cam button or anything else i should get?? It will be going on my 383 with alot of exspensive parts.

 

The difference is that the cheaper "roller" chain IS NOT actually roller chain; it's "split roller", "bushing roller", etc. What we all used to call "truck chain". The more expensive ones, from Comp, Crane, Lunati, Cloyes, or whoever, has actual roller bearings inside the chain. Very very different.

The gear #s (the #s you can see) can be the same, as long as the chain links are the same dimensions; but the chain itself is different.

I would put a stock Link-Belt type chain back on, before I would use one of those. They "stretch" (actually, wear) far more than a Link-Belt or an actual roller. I don't know why people diss the Link-Belt chains so bad, the problem with stock ones isn't the chain anyway, it's the chinesium cam gear with the phenolic teeth that strip off. That's how they fail: the gear disintegrates, the chain never fails.

For the 84, with the pre-roller block, the best way to go is the Comp 3100 set. It's really roller chain, not "truck chain" like a $20 "roller" set at the parts store; and it's only $45 or $50. The timing set for factory roller applications (different cam nose design and bolt spacing) is considerably more expensive, no matter what type of chain is used in it.

You don't need a cam button with either a flat tappet cam or a factory roller setup.

 

RB, yes, obviously the cheaper stuff is diffrent the a true double roller.

BUT, summit brand as we all know, is always a re-packaged name brand. We compared every part side by side between the comp cams, and the summit. Trust me, the are the same part.

 

Did you grind a pin out and see what the little round piece that you can see between the links has inside of it? Was it "split bushings", or was it a set of needle rollers? That's the difference we're talking about..... something that looks sort of like rollers on the outside but isn't; and something that actually has rollers inside, where you can't just open up the box and see them, but is where it really counts.

 

your right, i didn't cut it apart. But the numbers etched on the chain, the numbers cast on the gears, the keyway markings, everything was the same. It is no secret that summit re-sells name brand parts, under their name. and many of their valvetrain parts are Comp.

 

Yes, that is very true.... Summit isn't a mfr, they're a warehouse; and for that matter, Comp doesn't make everything they sell, they merely re-box some things.

But on the chain, the links are the part with the numbers on them, and those can be the same on a bushing chain or a roller chain. That is, the presence of rollers or bushings around the pins, doesn't necessitate that the links be different.

Frankly, I don't know of a good way to tell for certain by looking at a chain, whether it's really a roller or not. I wish I did. But I do know for certain, that AT BEST you get what you pay for.

The right set in Comp is the 3136, which is $70 something IIRC at Summit, not $110. I do know for certain that their 3100 series is truly "roller" chain, not "bushing rollers". Whether the Summit one is or not, I have no clue.

 

So Uhh what chain to get? I do have a roller block. Heres is a GM performance parts one from SDPC.com

12371043 GM Performance Parts 87-Up SB Chevy Single Roller Timing Chain Kit $49.95

 

I say Cloyes true roller 3145. You cant go wrong with a cloyes true roller.

 

Thats a double roller also isnt it.

 

My dad taught me a neat trick for installing the drive gear. Just stick it in the oven at 250-300 deg for about 20 min, take it out with some high heat gloves, and it will slide right on the crank. Just make sure you hold it so it's fully seated a minute later you'll hear a little crunch noise as the metal contracts to normal size, and you're good to go.

 

Just like the best way to put bushings in is to deep freezem first.

 

Yep

The big truck guys will use the oven trick to install starter rings on flywheels too. I'm sure there's tons of other ways to use that method too.

 

(onebinky) what ever happend to the supercharged red camaro that you had? Thanks on all the replys i will be putting in my timming chain in about 2-3 months. Trying to get heads, already have my cam, and the rest is gaskits little things.

 

I ended up selling it to my little brother so I could buy my '01 TA.

He ended up pulling the supercharger and selling it, and he just swapped a 350 in place of the 305, and swapped the t-5 for a built 700r4.

I decided to go back to school, so I had to sell the TA and got back into a thirdgen. Those are a bit easier to afford, and can be just as fun

 

What kind of map sensor did you have? Stock computor?

 

on the 92? Stock 1 bar and stock ECM. Those were the days before I knew the benifits of a good tune...

 

The supercharged camaro that you had . Did you have any internals done? The only reson im asking this is becouse i always see other threads that say you CAN NOT boost on a tbi.

 

You can, it's just more difficult and not as efficient. Blow-thru on the TBI setup will disrupt the injector spray pattern will enough boost. Not to mention the TBI heads suck.

Bottom end is fine though unless you run alot of boost.

 

well i be swaping heads like in 2 months i got a great deal on a set of 081 heads which have a mild port job and also an lt1 cam with maybe a manifold not sure yet