New springs needed with cam change?
New springs needed with cam change?
I plan on install the comp xtreme energy 250 grind very shortly. I need to know if I need to replace the valve springs (and/or any other valve train components) when I do this. If so, I would greatly appreciate suggestions on what to get. Thanks in advance.
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'86 IROC-Z, 305 LG-4, T-5, T-Tops, 50k Original Miles, K&N Air Filter, Jet chip, KYB Shocks/Struts, Centerforce Dual Friction, B&M Ripper Shifter
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'86 IROC-Z, 305 LG-4, T-5, T-Tops, 50k Original Miles, K&N Air Filter, Jet chip, KYB Shocks/Struts, Centerforce Dual Friction, B&M Ripper Shifter
If you are going to go to all of the trouble to replace the cam, I would definitely replace the springs and probably the retainers, valve seals, locks and timing chain/gears.
I recently put in a Comp Cams "K" kit in my 82 Z28 and it comes with all those components plus lifters.
Springs need to be matched (compatable) with your cam. By buying a complete kit you are assured of that.
You can change the valve springs with a $10 tool and a spark plug hole adapter to put compressed air in the cylinder to keep the valves closed while you change things out.
That's what I did and it was easy and slick.
-Skip
I recently put in a Comp Cams "K" kit in my 82 Z28 and it comes with all those components plus lifters.
Springs need to be matched (compatable) with your cam. By buying a complete kit you are assured of that.
You can change the valve springs with a $10 tool and a spark plug hole adapter to put compressed air in the cylinder to keep the valves closed while you change things out.
That's what I did and it was easy and slick.
-Skip
What Cskip Said.
Valvesprings and Timing Chains are Cheap, and Will Really help.
Your stock springs are weak and Fatigued by now, and the chain Is stretched.
AS far as locks and retainers, I dunno. If I were To Do it again I would prolly change them ( cheap ) But, I was down to the line and Didnt have them In hand, So the old ones went back on.
I shift at 6 grand ( Racing ) And havent had a problem yet, over 1000 miles on the Cam.
Before you Go Buying that Cam Tho, Let me suggest the XE262H, that 250 is pretty Mild, The 262 Works Very well In My LG4, I don't think you will be dissapointed.
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Reader's ride -> My Ride
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Valvesprings and Timing Chains are Cheap, and Will Really help.
Your stock springs are weak and Fatigued by now, and the chain Is stretched.
AS far as locks and retainers, I dunno. If I were To Do it again I would prolly change them ( cheap ) But, I was down to the line and Didnt have them In hand, So the old ones went back on.
I shift at 6 grand ( Racing ) And havent had a problem yet, over 1000 miles on the Cam.
Before you Go Buying that Cam Tho, Let me suggest the XE262H, that 250 is pretty Mild, The 262 Works Very well In My LG4, I don't think you will be dissapointed.
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Reader's ride -> My Ride
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Yes, you should change them with springs that Comp Cams recommends for your application, not just any set of "performance springs" at the local speed shop.
You can do this without removing the heads if you have access to compressed air.
You can do this without removing the heads if you have access to compressed air.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
Doesn't anybody use the 'rope in cylinder method' for changing valvesprings? I've heard about it from various old school sources, but never on a board anywhere.
You know, where you thread some rope in through the spark plug hole with ethe piston on it's way up on the compression stroke. Then you turn the engine over by hand to push the piston and rop up to keep the valves up while you monkey with the valves. I've even heard of doing this without the rope, only it's a little trickier to be sure you are right at TDC, plus the valves will fall a little bit even at TDC, which makes getting it back together less than easy with certain spring combos.
...ed (don't mind me, spewing advice like a fontain today, eyes are bleeding from boredom at work, and i'm only 7 posts shy of the 1k mark, woo hoo.)
You know, where you thread some rope in through the spark plug hole with ethe piston on it's way up on the compression stroke. Then you turn the engine over by hand to push the piston and rop up to keep the valves up while you monkey with the valves. I've even heard of doing this without the rope, only it's a little trickier to be sure you are right at TDC, plus the valves will fall a little bit even at TDC, which makes getting it back together less than easy with certain spring combos.
...ed (don't mind me, spewing advice like a fontain today, eyes are bleeding from boredom at work, and i'm only 7 posts shy of the 1k mark, woo hoo.)
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
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Transmission: 5
Yes Ed, I have used it, and posted it here. It really does work. Sometimes low-tech, stone-age if you prefer, is best.
ALWAYS replace the valve springs when you do a cam change, no matter how "little" of a cam you are using. Stock springs are garbage. If you ever have the pleasure of working on a motor where one failed at any kind of RPMs, you'll never re-use another stock one. THe same goes for retainers and keepers, since when they fail, they also allow the valve to drop into the cylinder. Let's just say that valve fragments resulting from one falling into a cylinder are essentially incompressible...
I agree that the 250 is too small of a cam for performance use; it's meant for larger motors with low compression in towing or pulling situations. A XE256 or XE262 would be a better choice.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
ALWAYS replace the valve springs when you do a cam change, no matter how "little" of a cam you are using. Stock springs are garbage. If you ever have the pleasure of working on a motor where one failed at any kind of RPMs, you'll never re-use another stock one. THe same goes for retainers and keepers, since when they fail, they also allow the valve to drop into the cylinder. Let's just say that valve fragments resulting from one falling into a cylinder are essentially incompressible...
I agree that the 250 is too small of a cam for performance use; it's meant for larger motors with low compression in towing or pulling situations. A XE256 or XE262 would be a better choice.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
I've used the rope method a long time ago but it is a pain and too time consuming. It's much quicker to just stick a couple of large screwdriver ends in there if you're in a pinch and don't have compressed air.
ODB
ODB
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lol ODB, thats a new one 
So Rb, You think Im pushing it with My Stock retainers and Locks ?
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Reader's ride -> My Ride
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

So Rb, You think Im pushing it with My Stock retainers and Locks ?
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Reader's ride -> My Ride
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
i always replace the springs and retainers with a cam swap. i've been luckey enough to always have air to do spring swaps with the heads on.
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ICON Motorsports
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MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
Thanks guys, I'll check into the bigger cam, but I'm really not going all out on this one (that's what Impala is for), I want to get good gas mileage and get a little power to the wheels at the same time. As for the springs, I will change them as I have been advised.
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