im gonna get rid of this junk oil in my car and dump synthetic in it. i would assume i gotta let it drain pretty well first off?

and is their a specific oil filter i should have? or just a standard Fram will work?

 

Synthentic and non-synthetic are completly compatible, so there is no need for an extended drain or anything. Any oil filter designed for a small or big block chevy will work. Youll find that everyone has their own opinion of the different filter makers. I use mobil.

One more thing. If you burn oil or have leaks, oil consumption can be higher with synthetic.

 

no leaks or burning, funny, cuz after i posted i went out and bought the stuff anyways, i picked mobil 1 as well. it works well?

 

Mobil 1 seems to work well...the previous owner of my car used it the whole time he owned the car, and it seems to be holding up fine for me.

 

The mobil 1 filter is one of the best available, and so is mobil 1 oil.

To learn more about oil and filters go to http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

There is an incredible amout of info there. I've learned a huge amount about oil, and oil filters, and bypass filtering.

 

You can learn more about oil <A HREF="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/search.php?s=">HERE</A>

It's only been covered about a couple of hundred times.

 

When you buy a filter, don't buy one for a car. Look for one for a '79 Suburban 350 4x4 or something like that... they use the big filter. Its about 1.5" deeper than a car 350 filter.

Just for reference, I think the Fram number is PH5

 

Obviously you haven't taken the time to check out the site I linked to. Yes a few oil topics have been covered here, maybe even a couple of hundred times as you said, but in no way as in depth, or as many different subjects as on the other site.

This is a 3rd gen site with many experienced experts here on these cars, the other is a oil and oil related subjects site with industry oil experts-chemists-oil anyalis people answering questions about oil and related subjects. I go where the most iinfo and knowledge is. Third gens here, oil there.

But it's a free world, use the site of your choice


Oh, and also learn why fram filters are known as the "orange cans of death" there too.

 

There's enough people here that highly dislike Fram, myself included

 

Well at least you and I agree on one thing

 

Agreed, but most oil filters do use the same ID system dont they? I know the same quaker state filter is a QS5 for example (but I think thats made by Fram anyway)

My point is that theres two sizes of oil filter for the SBC... use the bigger one. Bigger is better here.

 

Actaully, there are 3 sizes of filters that will fit small/big blocks. The really short one, the standard one, and the 2 quart truck filter. I'm running the 2 quart ones on my car and big block pickup.

From what I read on the oil website, at high rpm's and high oil flow rates, most filters can't filter the volume of oil necessary, so the bypass opens so the engine won't starve for lubrication. With a larger filter with more flow capacity, more oil will flow through the filter instead of being bypassed in high demand conditions. Not to mention another quart of oil capacity in the engine with the big filter. These two reasons alone are good enough for me to run the bigger 15 micron filters.

 

anybody know the code for the 2 qt filters?, even if it's a fram code I can always cross refrence it to a mobile 1 filter (my uasal filter brand)

 

No offense, but I take it you didn't know a slew of people from there are/were from here, and that site, by far, was not the genesis of the FRAM tumble. Thank a Chrysler fan for that IIRC. And bobistheoilguy.com has been linked a whole slew of times here as well, nothing new, no need for the drama reply.

 

No drama reply, just info for someone that didn't know.

 

Unfortunately Mobil 1 doesn't make a 2 quart filter for this application. The only other 15 micron filter available in the 2 quart size are from Amsoil. Part# SDF76.

Other part numbers for good quality 2 quart size are Baldwin B7, Purolator L40084, and Wix 51794.

Try and cross the Puro number to a Pure One filter instead of a standard Purolator. They are much better than the standard Puro's.

 

I've heard a lot about the "orange can of death". I've never seen objective evidence (such as a burst test), nor non-cyber first-hand reports (in fact, even the cyber reports seem to be "I know somebody who knows somebody who had one fail...").

I do know several racers who use them on high pressure, high flow, high RPM engines. I've never seen one cause an oil-down at the track, and I spend significant time out at the track.

I wasn't properly prepared for an over-due oil change on my daughter's '91 Bonneville one Sunday evening a few months back, couldn't get ahold of my local AMSOIL jobber, and ended up leaving Checker with a Fram Toughguard. It's due for a change soon, I'll go back to the AMSOIL filter I usually use.

I have my biases, prejudices, and preferences, but I try to overcome that all with reason, too. Let's see something objective on why Fram is so bad.

Back to the original question: It is possible that long-term use of petroleum-based oil, especially if left in too long, may have left deposits in the crankcase that the synthetic will desolve, and which will quickly contaminate the new oil and possibly load up the filter. In extreme situations, the pickup screen can be plugged (I've seen that once in 21 years using synthetics). For that reason, it's usually a good idea to flush or clean the engine before running the synthetic long-term. AMSOIL has a good flush that is used before draining the oil; using part synthetic/part petroleum in short change intervals is another way to accomplish the task.

 

I have always had excellent luck with the Puralator PURE ONE filters and Mobil 1 oil. The PURE ONE has a 96% multiple pass efficiency rating like real-world use, but many Frams brag about their single-pass ratings, but as we all know oil passes through a filter more than one time! I also like SLICK 50 every four years. I think that's why my 305 lasted 192,000 miles!

 

I believe Slick 50 has Teflon in it, something that doesn't belong in an internal combustion engine. It will eventually get filtered out anyways. :lala:

 

what are the ac delco part numbers for those three sizes, i have the small filter ac, if i can find the huge one im gonna get it

 

AC Delco large (1 qt.) filter for V8 3ed gens is a PF1218 (what I use)

 

:werd:

 

thank you much vern, btw did you get the tuning issues fixed, or did you find out what the deal is?

 

Getting closer, car is running great, but still looks to be running rich on the right side of the motor. Check out my Baffling Fuel Mixture Imbalance post for more info.....

Later Doug, and thanks for the help so far!

 

Yo Trav, no worries when going to synthetic, just change the oil like you normally would. Syn and Dino oils can mix, no problems. Now if you want synthetic, get a *real* Group 4 one like Mobil1, or Redline or Royal Purple. I've been using the M1 in my 88 for years.

The Pennz, Castrol, etc.. are not real Group 4 PAO synthetics. They're really hydrocracked Group 3 Dino oils.

Re the filters, Fram SUX!!! Go with a K&N, M1, Napa Gold, PurOne or AC Delco. And I run a truck filter in my car, it's a little longer, holds a little more oil and has a little more filter media. It hangs down a little lower, but not so low that it's gonna scrape the ground or get hit by rocks.

 

I don't have anything on Fram oil filters, just their air filters. I compared a Fram to the Purolator (it may have been some other brand, such as AC, I don't recall for sure) that I was replacing. The Fram was noticeably smaller than the Purolator. The height (and the diameter, IIRC) was noticeably smaller than the old filter. I was concerned that the air filter would not properly seal in the air cleaner housing. I sent an e-mail to Fram, mentioning this. I never got a response.

Now, with that said, it is possible that I picked up the wrong filter or that the wrong filter got put into the box that I purchased. But the fact that Fram did not bother to reply to my e-mail is what sealed it.

 

More of the fram sucks, but I dont really know why. I have used fram filters and valvoline oil in every vehicle I have owned, and every persons vehicle I have maintained. Never once had an oiling issue. Anyone got any real proof, or just more of the "it sucks" bull crap monkey-spank (thanks for the phrase RB) talk.

 

I don't like Fram just because of the experience I noted above. Why don't you check out bobistheoilguy.com. There is a link on the first page to an oil filter test. Be sure and read everything that's linked.

 

Cut a few open and compare to some other filters on the market. Their quality, IMNSHO, sucks donkey ***** compared to other cans I've cut open. Me, personally, I go with the higher quality product. But as I've stated before, I'll let people decide for themselves.

 

I appreciate that. I've used the fram filters for a long time, change my oil regularly and never have a problem. I'll probably continue to use them. I just hate it when people say, "dont use it, it sucks" but then have no data, or real experience to back that up.

 

Here is a pic of the 3 different size of filters that will work on our cars. I took the pic with the numbers showing to help with cross referencing.