alright, working on building Crazeincs car here. The vehicle is a 1990 GTA, that was equipped with the 5.7 TPI, auto originally. It is on its way towards having a 355-700R

Alright, well, most of these questions are dealing with wiring, but I am sure there will be more to come....

I was hoping to remove the entire TPI harness originally. As I started working on it, I realized that it tied in with the fuse box, and the only way to remove it completely was to unplug the bigger connector of the two at the fuse box (firewall side) and then I was able to remove the whole harness. This left me with no guages and no main power wires to the fuse box. It appears the smaller plug to the fuse box feeds the headlights, wipers, curise and whatnot. Well, the first idea to come to my head was to use the bigger connector wiring harness from the donor carb car, but after checking them out and plugging and trying I found that the positions for the main power wires were not the same, which resulting in the car basically not functioning. So, against my better judgement, I began to disassemble the TPI harness (sorry TPI guys!) I found that after disassembled, the harness actually only tied in with the computer harness by a few wires. After sorting through the mess, I was able to find the main power wires, the starter wire, temp guage wire, the smaller alt regulator wire, and a connector with a large red wire and a smaller white wire, which i believe to be the ignition power and tach wire, is this correct? there was also one other connector which included an orange wire that went somewhere in the computer harness and both a tan and a grey wire. This is a smaller 3 pin weather tight connector, any ideas what this is?, it was marked but the markings are almost gone. I can get pictures if anyone needs me to.

It appeared to me that the electric speedo connector went right to the computer, any ideas here?? What can I do about hooking up the speedo in this car. I think ive heard that they make adapters to adapt the mech speedo to the elec one. then I can plug the plug from the computer in and wire it somehow to the dash, anyone give me any pointers there?

under the dash, where the harness met the computer, some of the wires didnt go into teh computer, but went into a plug under teh dash instead, should i just sort those wires out of teh harness and plug into the dash what i need?

Also, as far as oil pressure, is that possibly the three pin connector i have, possibly if i hook the tan wire from that connector to the mech oil pressure guage , might i get oil pressure?? It seems on the other cars I have done that the tan wire is oil pressure.

Also, i am not getting the crank wire to get hot when the key is turned to start, I think the VATS is just confused, and Ill have to do a bypass, sound right?

Next, the fuel pump....ugh... he wants to run the fuel pump that is in the tank for the EFI with a regulator with a return. Is the fuel pump going to know what to do? I believe the fuel pump relay to be the one that was left after everything else was removed, it was hooked to the smaller harness for the lights and stuff up front. Is the fuel pump going to still prime and then continue to run once the car is started, or what might i have to do to make sure it does. When i hooked the battery up last night, it came on immediately, so i had to unplug it before i went on with my electrical work since there is no motor and open fuel lines spraying fuel all over my garage is not cool.

umm....that might be it for now, im sure Ill think of more questions in a few minutes...

oh yeah....its got cruise, think thats gonna function without the computer, or will it just not function if i cant figure out how to get the speedo to hook up, because I would assume it uses the VSS to work correctly...

alright guys...gimme some answers, or some sort of direction...thanks....


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This may be irrelevant at this point but why didn't you just take the entire wiring harness and computer from an 86 with the electronic 700r4?

You would have saved gobs of time and wouldn't have these problems. You could also have sold the old stuff.

Get rid of the in-tank electric fuel pump. Install another on the frame rail if you don't want to use a mechanical pump.

 

wasnt an option??...i dunno

anyway, back to the top, help me out guys I thought for sure this post i spent forever on would be gone with thirdgen

 

MYZ,

The cruise will function in a stand-alone fashion.

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Vader
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those extra wires going to a plug under the dash is for the ADLC which is the connector used to pull codes and hook up diagnostic equipment to. that orange wire is the main ECM power wire that goes to the battery. and that tan wire with the white stripe is i believe to be be the distributer timing(EST) wire. take projects like this slow and easy and with planning. also, other than here I would suggest taking this part of the swap tp the electrical board.....good luck

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anyone else?

 

The TPI harness goes under the hood via the passenger side and is not connected to the fuse panel (driver side). You shouldn't have unhooked the driverside harness at all. You could've just trimmed away the few wires away from the driverside harness that you didn't need.

 

I can't comment on the VSS junk or electric speedo since mine is slightly older, but I just left the entire harness where it all was, and trimmed away the injector wiring and a couple other extraneous wires. All of my guages and fan switch wiring and all that crap I left intact (I wired my fans on manually anyway). The only thing that didn't work on the 87 without the computer was the oil pressure safety switch/fuel pump relay stuff. (the fuel pump relay was one of multiple relays over on the drivers side firewall, I left them all alone). I just ran a single wire to the fuel pump relay to operate it when the ignition is on as mine wasn't running at all. Sounds like you don't have that problem on the 90...

For the torque converter lockup I am simply running a little vacuum switch controlled setup sold in Jegs from TCI for like $70. Has a pressure switch or something and a small wiring harness that go in the tranny, and then the vacuum switch is hooked up to ported vacuum on the carb, and a couple wires get run down from the vacuum switch to plug on the outside of the tranny where the stock lockup control plugs in at and plugs in there. Easy and it works fine.

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Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
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