I raced a mustang yesterday from about 80 to 100 and he took me pretty bad about 2 to 3 carlengths. It was like a 91-93(not sure) LX 5.0, I don't know what mods it had. I was wondering what I could do to help out my car, what should I do next? My mods are in my signature.

------------------
'91 Z28 305, Auto trans, K&N filters, TPIS air foil, power pulleys, ported plenum, hypertech chip, hooker cat back, kyb shocks, STB, SLP 1 5/8" headers, catco 3" cat, 14.7@ 93 mph.

 

headers & cam first

I'd suggest SLP or Edlebrock TES, and a Comp 260HR or 264HR

then a gear... you probably have 3.08s, a 3.42 would be good

then a converter if you still have any traction

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited May 01, 2001).]

 

RB83L69, how is a converter going to help on top end? Unless its a locking Vigilante converter, which would eliminate slippage at high speed and RPMs.

------------------
91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter

Built on Wednesday

 

Put it on the bottle.

 

Or supercharge it

------------------
82 Camaro:
350, Erson cam, ported heads, Crane Hi-6 ignition, Accel supercoil, Comp Cams 1.6:1 rocker arms, TH350 tranny with 2500 stall.
SLP 1 3/4" headers

 

headers first, that would prolly be the easiest and most straight foreward. make sure its in tiptop condition(i.e...tuned up) before u throw on a poweradder.

daniel

 

build a 350 its expensive but he wont do it again!!


------------------
89 firebird formula

360 10:1compression (350 .060 over)/fully balnced and blueprinted
comp cams xe262 cam
performer rpm intake/port matched to heads
#1407edlebrock 750
sportsman 2 heads 64cc 2.02/1.60 valves 200cc intake runner/cnc pocket ported
msd 6al/msd8.5 super condutor wires
h.e.i. proform 50,000 volt vac. advance ditributor
700r-4 with 3.08 first gear and 3.23 posi 7 5/8 rear end.
b trans shift kit(will kill shifts...suck dong!!)
shorty heddman hedders with custom 3" pipe y-pipe back(no damn cat!) with 40 series flowmaster!
griffin daul1" core rad.cutom fabrication to fit(but no cutting )

future mods: 406 roller REALLY REALLY REALLY RADICAL!!!!!

 

Bingo!



------------------
1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

MrJ:

Converters don't help top end, they help launch... why are you asking about top end?

It's a whole lot easier to win a drag race when you get a good jump at the start.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Guys, this dude has headers already. Also, in that speed range...ah, Frig it, you need a T5 trust me. My trusty 89 TPI in third gear rips up the road at 80km/h.
You win some and lose some but if that Stang was modded then maybe he got the jump on you (and probably had nitrous).

Who knows...

------------------
89 GTA G92
305 TPI WC 5spd w/3.45
Accel Cap & 8mm Taylor's
Custom 4" Cold Air Induction
Jet Airfoil
K&N Airfilter
160 deg stat/fan switch TB Bypass - Steel Rad
Cat back 3" Exhaust w/Terminator Muff.
HiGh FlOw Dynomax Cat
Spohn LCA's - KYB GR-2's
Moroso Crank Bolt and roller pilot bearing.
New Fuel Pump!
Autometer Vac+Oil Temp
2000 Yamaha R1 150hp 385ibs

 

Exactly, I don't get why people get soo Worked up "Some stang just beat me, Now I feel the need to spend $$ ".


There is always going to be a faster Mustang than You, a faster Camaro, a faster Corvette, ect.

Hell, there Is even going to be a faster yugo than you, Somewhere.


Stop Worrying about what everyone else has vrs you, and Worry about what You have, VRs you.

Because, Unless Your Getting Paid for winning, The only person Your really racing, is yourself.




------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Reader's ride -> My Ride

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

 

Rocky couldn't have said it better!
'maybe, uh, you think, uh, it's you against you?'

Relax, it ain't like judge dread is gonna come and judge you for losing against a Rustang.

 

or is he...

 

How bad did he take you? Pulling you the whole race or just beat you on the launch???

Either way you have a few decent mods, I'd be looking at a new TPI base and runner set if it were me, but that's pretty costly. Stepping up to 3.42s is a good idea as well. I've got them in both my 87Z and my old 86 IROC, they are an excellent all around gear.

On the cam issue, you may already have the hotter cam being a 91, there is some arguement as to whether or not 305 TPI autos got the peanut cam or not in 91-92. This isn't much help since it's unknown, but if you still have the peanut cam you need a good cam desperately.

To break it all down I'd go for the intake and maybe a set of 1.6 rockers and you'll pick up some power with either cam... I also see no mention of a AFPR in your sig, install one of those at the same time.

------------------
Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
www.inter-scape.com/Ray

 

for the higher end i'd say a cam and ram air installation. not to sound like an *** , but you ran a car that is real low 14's to start with. you didn't have a chance as long as he knew how to drive and mustang owners are like camaro owners. finding a stock mustang is like finding a lawyer that don't lie. probably already had a few mods on it making it a 13 second car. that's hell for a 5.7 to run let alone a 5.0 f body.

 

Heck no! You can't just sit back and let a rustnag beat you. Go out and get your self a 383 or 350. Properly built with the correct mods and that rustang is beat. I know cuz my thirdgen Z has beat the newer rustang gts. Their expressions are humorous .

------------------
Big 454 72 Chevy Nova
383 86 Camaro Z28
10.5:1compression 186 casting Heads,234dur.488lift exh&int,Edelbrock performer intake, Holley750 vac.sec 400 crank,flat top pistons,edelbrock valve springs and lifters,tranny shift kit,2500 stall converter. Will install 3.73's later on and might go with a more aggresive cam.As of 4/01 added Hooker Headers,2.5inchpipes with 40 s. Flowmasters.Ignition upgrade include: MSD Coil and MSD module.

 

tisk tisk.

You guys Just Don't Get it.

Oh well.

My car is Fast enough, When i feel Like its fast Enough. Not when I can beat every mustang in existance, cause thats never Gonna Happen.



------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Reader's ride -> My Ride

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

 

HAHAHAHAHA!!


Besides, as much as I dislike Mustangs they do have an advantage over our cars and do have a much better design in their 5.0's than our 5.0's.



------------------
89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

 

You need more power. Either get a set of heads, cam, nitrous, or supercharger.

I have an L98 350 cam out of my 89 vette engine you could buy off me, it's the largest profile they put in any of these engines stock.

------------------
1986 CAMARO Z28 ->
151,000 original miles, 43,000 on 89' vette 350 block, Holley 650 DP, Weiand intake, 1.6 rockers, 1 5/8" headers, no cat, 2 1/2" Flowmaster catback, Mallory coil, March pulleys, B&M Ripper shifter, T5 with 3.35 1st gear and 0 miles, 90% Centerforce clutch, 3.73 posi, Eibach 1" drop springs, Spohn LCA's, Spohn adjustable panhard rod, Subframe connectors, all bushings are urethane, 2 12" Sound Streams, 2 Infinity 6X9's, 2 Pioneer 6X9's, 800 watt Lanzar Vibe amp. ET 13.32@ 106.4MPH 3300lbs less driver and speakers Next mods-> Extreme Energy 268 cam, Holley street dom intake, ported heads.

1987 TRANS AM ->
73,000 miles, 305TPI, auto, gutted air box, gutted cat.

 

Just to clarify some things we were racing on the freeway starting around 80 mph. I'm not really pissed because a mustang beat me, I didn't really expect to beat him, I'm pissed because my car has no power in this range. From 80 he took off and I didn't and I just wanted some opinions on what to do to improve my top end.

 

Well Then, If you had only Said So.

Since you have TPI, and not TBI, your a step ahead already.

Now the TPI is not notorious for its power in the Upper register, but It can be made to perform respectably ( See post by RD concerning the 10 sec streetable L98 Vette )

Looking at your Mod list, I would Suggest your next step be a CAm and valvetrain upgrade.


Our heads Flow pretty Good, For stock 305 heads, And The cam that comes with our cars, weather peanut, or not, Leaves something to be desired.

I decided, Upon reccomendation of many on this board, to use the Comp XE262H, And I am not dissapointed. THe car pulls hard to 6 grand, WIth stock exhuast manifolds and heads. I belive they Also make a XE262HR For your application, with 114* LSA as opposed to 110, To avoid vaccum related computer problems.

Now, Im using the Performer RPM intake, Wich is more suited to high RPM power than your TPI setup, But I belive That You could make similar Power gains with This setup Yourself. Remember, I have WAY restrictive exhuast, You are in Good shape With the headers You have ( maybe even a little too big )


Alot of People On here will and have Suggested Heads, Superchargers, Nitrous, ect.

Thats all Fine and Good, And Definate ways to make easy Power. The problem is Most of us cant afford It. My cam Swap Ran me 700 Bucks, Being liberal and Not skimping or reusing ( cept locks and retainers, lol )

You Would be in well under that, becasue I replaced alot of other, Non cam related stuff, at the Same time.

The Most practical Of these other suggestions, The heads, Will Cost you around 1 grand when all is said and Done, And IMHO, wont yeild you as much power as the cam swap.

The thing you have to remember is putting some nice, High Flowing heads On the Motor, Won't do any good with The stock POS cam You have. It cant even Flow up to the full potential of the 416's, Much less some aftermarket peices.


Something Your also Going to have to Consider is the Computer. Aftermarket chips are all Fine and Good For Braggin, But once you get into some serious Mods, You need to Start Writing your own. I am by no means an expert, Or even remotely Knowledgeable In this, But I suggest you start reading the DIY prom Board, If you havent already. For several hundred Dollars, You can aquire the EQ you need, and Start really Dialing In your setup. A luxury Us Carbed Guys really wish We had.

(Breath)

People are very willing to Suggest Ways to spend your Money. Look and see If any One of the people who Suggest a SC is Running one themselves. I didn't think so.

And Just to add to the Fire, My POS Lg4 ** ** Smoked a 4.6L Mustang GT Vert like a Fat blunt this morning, on the way To school.

Of course, he had 4 people In the car, But who is counting ?

He started it...


And Heck yes, You can just Sit back and Let a mustang beat you, Few weeks back I raced a 5.0 With a Paxton, 9 psi. Yeah, He beat me. He beat me while only shifting at 3 grand. He beat me bad.

You win Some, and YOu Lose some.

Funny Thing Ive noticed, and Now this post is getting Long. The faster Your Car gets, the More races you actually end Up losing.

My neighbor has a Low 12, Maybe high 11 second 69 nova. We take it out weekends To a place in our area For street Racing. In the last Two months, Since it was warm enough to run, He has only won 2 or 3 races, out of about 15-20.

Why? because when You have a Almost show Quality, hard Cammin, Open exhuast Nova, the only people Who Will race you are those Who know they are fast.

I win almost every single race in My camaro. In fact, the Only race I have lost was that 5.0. People Think Its slow. For the most part, They are right. But its fast enough To Win, Most of the Time.

Good Luck, Respect comes, not with Winning Races, But with Knowing Your car, and its LImits. Don't Act something your Not, and People won't criticize.

At least, the People who Matter, anyway.

------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Reader's ride -> My Ride

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

 

I still say HECK NO! Don't sit back and do nothing about losing to a rustang. Get that thirdgen modded so next time u meet up a rustang you will beat it! I never said you would win all races but do something to win most of them. I myself lost to some rustangs before my 383 but then decided to upgrade and up to this point I have not been shot down! Yes there is someone out there faster than my thirdgen but for now I am enjoying my streak and having fun beating those mudstangs. It's not if I loose but when I loose I will be a good sport about it but I will undoubtedly come back with another upgrade .

------------------
Big 454 72 Chevy Nova
383 86 Camaro Z28
10.5:1compression 186 casting Heads,234dur.488lift exh&int,Edelbrock performer intake, Holley750 vac.sec 400 crank,flat top pistons,edelbrock valve springs and lifters,tranny shift kit,2500 stall converter. Will install 3.73's later on and might go with a more aggresive cam.As of 4/01 added Hooker Headers,2.5inchpipes with 40 s. Flowmasters.Ignition upgrade include: MSD Coil and MSD module.

 

guess I'm guilty of not getting it.

------------------
Big 454 72 Chevy Nova
383 86 Camaro Z28
10.5:1compression 186 casting Heads,234dur.488lift exh&int,Edelbrock performer intake, Holley750 vac.sec 400 crank,flat top pistons,edelbrock valve springs and lifters,tranny shift kit,2500 stall converter. Will install 3.73's later on and might go with a more aggresive cam.As of 4/01 added Hooker Headers,2.5inchpipes with 40 s. Flowmasters.Ignition upgrade include: MSD Coil and MSD module.

 

Someone had mentioned getting a T5. They're dependable trannies; but once you start making serious power I'd be very cautious. The T5's don't have very high torque ratings. Remember there's a regular T5 and a World Class T5.

Casey, there are a couple of things I'd like to ask. 1) Bort62 is right that it pretty much comes down to how much are you willing to spend. You put a loaded question like how to make a car faster and you're going to get every answer under the sun (and then some) with little regard to cost. That's fine and dandy. The more info we have the better off we are. Can you give a ballpark figure on how much you're willing AND ABLE to invest in this? Is this a daily driver that cannot be on the sidelines for 2 or 3 days getting upgraded.

One thing that I didn't see anyone mention is aerodynamics. It plays a crucial role on top end performance. I don't know what the coefficient of drag (cd) is for the third-gen camaros and for the aforementioned mustang. I know that the third-gen firebirds are a little cleaner through the air because of their nose. A lot of land speed racers use these cars, because of their slickness.

I have a couple of questions. Has your car been lowered? What are the sizes of your wheel and tire combo? Any time that you can keep airflow from going under the car you'll create downforce. That'll help with stability at those speeds. How does that make you faster you ask? Anything that is in the path of air will have an impact on stability and speed (that goes for the front fascia, windshield, tires, etc). Even the firewall has an impact; as air goes through the radiator it gets trapped in the engine bay and hits the flat firewall with nowhere to go. That's the reason why some sports and exotic race cars have louvers in the hood and fenders. It helps to get trapped air out. A cowl induction hood may help to get trapped air out of the engine compartment (It may not since the opening is at a low pressure area where air will get sucked in) A fiberglass hood will also lower the weight of the car and also make the car a few mph faster. With a camaro at regular (stock) ride height, the tires are one of the obstacles that the air has to go around. That is why I asked you what size wheel and tires you have. Narrower width wheels and tires wheel present much less resistance to airflow, the drawback being less rubber on the road(less grip). Tire compound and tread design can help to regain some of that grip. Since, lowering the car can increases downforce the tires will be pushed into the pavement even harder. There's also the weight issue. Larger wheels and tires generally weigh more; that doesn't help acceleration.

I may be wrong about some of my information, so you may want to double check.

 

Casey, one more thing (you probably already know). Weight reduction will help your camaro go faster with the power that you already have.

You can go either way. You can put engine mods to make more power, in order to make your car faster at its present weight. Or you can decrease the weight of your car to make it go faster with the power that the engine already puts out.

If you're adding a blower, turbo, nitrous, or whatever, you've got to include the weight of those systems into the equation.

 

Bort62,
Thanks for all the information, I think I might do a cam swap this summer, but how hard is it? I put in the headers myself is it harder than this?
Coach,
I will have a lot of money this summer to mod my car so that isn't really the issue. I can sideline my car over the summer. My car isn't lowered(have been thinking of doing this). My wheels are 16x8" 4th gen wheels with 245/50ZR16 tires on them( I don't want to have skinny tires on the front though). I have removed the spare tire and jack and I had my rear seat out for a while, what else should I do to lighten it up?

 

Why would he waste money on something he already has? Admittedly the 89 L98 cam profile is a little better than the 91 L98 cam profile, but its a miniscule difference and certainly doesn't justify a cam swap.

 

I'm not really fond of skinnies up front either. But, for drag racers it serves a purpose. I myself like a car that handles.

As for what you should do to lighten up the car, again it's up to you and how much you want to invest after the performance upgrades. Most of this stuff I'm saying is what I've read, and seen, so to me it's all theory not first-hand experience. I've been wanting to lower my car, but my driveway entrance is already tearing up the bottom of my '92's front fascia.

What I would do is to try to equal out the front-to-rear weight. Our cars are a little nose heavy. This makes our cars prone to oversteer (loose). I'd try to remove some of the weight off the front end. A 'glass hood would help. Moving the battery to the rear, using a relocation kit(doing this can present some small problems). Aluminum water pump. Light-weight starter. Just things off the top of my head.

 

Race starting at about 80 MPH huh? Well I won't even get into the common sense issues concerning safety for yourself and other motorists, so I will make this post with the thought that you were racing on a closed course race track.

Now then, When you are launching a car, as long as you can keep traction, with a properly tuned suspension to handle the load, low end torque is simply amazing. However, at 80, you are going to downshift (sending the RPM of the motor higher) rather than upshifting (lowering the RPM's of the motor) to pick up speed more quickly. This suggests that designing your motor to make it's peak torque (and HP) at a higher level would be most helpful.

First, get ride of the 305. Sure, some of you guys can make them really really really fast, and will spank the **** out of my 350, but here are two things to consider.

A-The more power extracted out of a smaller area creates more heat.
B-350 CI will make more power mod for mod than 305 CI, any brand of motor, and any day of the week, provided all things are equal.

So, what is one to do? Well torque is a great thing, and a longer stroke has been proven to generate more torque than a shorter stroke at any RPM level. A 350 is cool, but looking back, I wish I built at least a 383/396, or a 406/420. Building a 406 is not expensive! DO NOT USE THAT EXCUSE! Machine work costs the same, rotating assembly might be a few hundred more expensive, but it's a few hundred that will make you more power everywhere in the RPM band.

Once you have step 1 completed, you have to feed the beast. Now then, I passionately HATE the MiniRam/LT1 style intake after owning an LT1 F-body. I HATE IT, I HATE IT, I HATE IT! For this reason, I won't suggest it, but it may be one option if you can deal the the fact that the rear 4 cylanders, and especially the last 2, will recieve less air than the front 4 due to the throttle body position and small plenum...than go for it! I won't after I blew apart piston number 8 on my LT1 when I had to due to too little N/A air for the amount of nitrous/fuel being sprayed, which I had direct ported into the runner. But it's your choice...

What I do recommend however is that you consider a single plane/EFI conversion. Car Pro will sell you an Accel intake, fuel rail kit, and 1000 CFM throttle body that uses all Bosch sensors for about $1000. It has much better air distribution than the Mini-Detination-Ram, and I personally think looks cooler to boot. You already have the MAP computer and harness, so all that it will come down to is burning the chip.

A SuperRam is another EXCELLENT option for a street worthy drag racer...however, either the single plane or the "Ka-Boom"-Ram will provide better breathing if you are mostly concerned with doing high speed driving.

Next, as long as you don't care about absolutely top end speed, 3.43 or higher gear ratio's are a must...They will allow you to pull much harder up to about 130-140 MPH, when they will begin to work against you because they force the motor to spin higher.

So, what do you have to do? Get a performance motor, feed it enough air, and setup your drivetrain to work with it...it's really that simple...air, spark, and fuel...

 

Everyone had some great suggestions, but some were way off. First of all, the man has headers. Second, for top end, there's no use switching to numerically higher gears, unless you've done the figuring and decided that with the new gears, the downshift of the tranny when you peg it at 80 puts the motor right in its powerband; which I'm fairly certain it doesn't, plus it will cut some off of your top end. Third, at the top end it's all about flow, so he's got some good mods going for him with the K & N, the aftermarket exhaust, etc. but you he may want to add some form of ram air -- read up on the design theory then head out to the hardware store because this can be a very CHEAP mod that will help a lot at the top end (not so much bottom end). Fourth, lowering the car will help with aerodynamics, so will the weight reduction, blah blah blah. But these are all the things that you address once you're actually making the power to put yourself in the ball park of VERY FAST CARS. If you try to go the weight reduction route with a stock vehicle you'll end up with the noisiest, most uncomfortable thing on 4 wheels that only pulls of a 14 second quarter and a top speed of 125 MPH. No good.
If you want bang for your buck -- slap a killer nitrous system on your pocket rocket; and save your money while you have fun running the **** out of it until you blow the engine. Then, build yourself an engine that encompasses the high-flow heads, wild or mild cam, etc.
Believe me, you don't want dump thousands into your 5.0 when you can buy a new small block with those same upgrades for less, or build one yourself for way less. Also, you don't want to strip everything out of the inside except for your driver's seat just to gain 7 MPH on the top end.

------------------
1985 Trans Am - rough and ready
1976 Corvette Stingray - not so rough, but always ready

 

He's not talking about extreme top end, he wants the car to accelerate harder, and not just at the bottom of the power band... lower gear ratio's WILL allow the car to do this provided the motor can flow enough air. He doesn't want to build a 300 MPH Salt Flat machine, he wants something that pulls harder everywhere...from what I gathered at least.

LOL, yeah, maybe 5% if your lucky...your time would be better spent tuning your ignition and timing correctly than this. I beleive GM did a test on the ram air concept in the mid 60's...thier results weren't very impressive.

LOL, Now that I LOVE! The funniest thing I have read on this board yet, so true so true!

 

I'm not putting down going the power-adder route guys! For just a little more than what a bolt-on fiberglass hood would cost you you could get a basic nitrous system, that'll give you 100plus-hp. That's one of the quickest ways to go faster.

The problem is, in my opinion, that people get caught up with the WOW FACTOR, and forget about other areas that need to be addressed.

I'd rather have a stable car at 100mph, than one that is fish-tailing at 150mph.

Besides, everyone was already giving advice on cams, nitrous, gears, superchargers, etc. If I was asking for advice on upgrades, I would want all of the avenues that I could take. Not just the popular ones.

 

This is what I love about this site. Everyone has their own opinions, and is entitled to them. For that reason, I'm not going to put other people's ideas down. What's right for one may not be right for another.

Some individuals like to make as much power as they can before they even take a second look at brakes, engine cooling, aerodynamics, weight bias, etc. If you are one of those individuals, then I wish you all the power in the world.

Other people take a different approach setting up their car first. So that when they do start making gobs of power, their car is going to be able to handle it. (I do agree with you ImportEater, about gutting a car. I would only do that for a race-only vehicle).

Going with power first, will be the thing that puts that huge smile on your face. But going that route first can also scare the s**t out of you if your brakes aren't up to par (and you're just finding it out doing 140 when a car swerves in front of you), or if you get loose in a corner.

It doesn't mean that my reasoning is right. It doesn't mean that your reasoning is right. It's just a matter of preference.

 

Don't forget about all of the bambi's and other animals that somehow find a way to show up at the most inoportune driving times. hehe

 

Heck, I've been going freeway speeds (and slower)when I've realized that my stock brakes aren't the best in the world. I tell you, I was breathing hard and thanking the Lord I was able to stop in time.

I'm also one that believes that racing belongs on a track, not on public roads; no matter how deserted. But, again, that is just my belief. Everyone has their own free will.

 

I agree with Bigblockchevy, get a 383 with Performance EVERYTHING. And next time you see that rustang he'll be in your rear view mirror

 

he didnt ask for your for you to criticize his decesion to race a mustang on the highway, nor did he ask for you to say 'dont mod your car to keep up with mustangs", he only asked for your advice to give his car more power in the higher speeds. get off your high horse and answer the dam question.

dont tell him he is stupid for racing at highway speeds, and dont tell him he shouldnt do this or do that! recommend some mods that he can do to his car to achieve his goals, becuase that is all he asked for.

daniel

 

build a 350,,,then what happens when another guy does the same to a mustang,,,win some loose some,,,how long is a piece of string

 

Hum, is it just me, or does anyone else think that maybe it's not us who needs to get off the high horse?

 

I changed the cam in my 86' IROC flat tappet LB9 with a Summit 442 lift and didn't see much difference in power. everyone is saying cam, and I'm saying you need a lot more. what the heck else should I do to add power? right now all i have is flowmaster, airfoil, cam, lifters, timing chain and gears, 700r4 with shift kit and tranny cooler, modified MAFS, and removed the smog.
thanks in advance.

 

You want top end? Either siamese port the base or ditch the TPI.

------------------
'83 Firebird 2.8
'89 Firebird Formula 350
Red/grey, t-tops, and a 3.27:1 rear
K&N, TB bypass, no MAF screens, CAI, full Accel ignition, no cats, Hooker Supercomp shorties, Hooker 3-inch catback
ET? It's slower than your 305...

 

You can spend thousands of dollars for little stupid TPI mods like lots of other people do to only see 13s. Or you can buy an Ati P600b for $2703 and hit 12s with nothing else

------------------
91 Formula 1LE 1 of 46
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6

Paxton SN92 supercharger(SN93 upgrade), Ford SVO 24#injectors, Crane AFPR,SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March alt. pulley,Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL (5200rpm limit),Holley 9mm wires,Ac delco R43ts plugs,custom chip,Bosch O2sensor,SLP 1 5/8" headers,SLP catback,shortened shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,170* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.

 

oh yea , you want top end? I beat a Turbo TA last week from 75-110 steady pulling. Hows that for top end

You can read about it on the street racing board

 

Do what I did, but a mustang or two and build that up (its easy and cheap). Keep your f-body and have the best of both worlds.

89 TTA - 12.42 @111
91 Mustang GT - NMRA Pure Stock #5070 - 11.66 @116 on motor and 10.97 @123 on juice.

Pete