yes i am going to cut a hole in my sheet metal to make an access door. i will get an actual access door and even then see if i can brace it for everyone that has their concerns about that. the reason? my exhaust is a PITA to remove (would actually have to be cut and Re-welded :nono: ) and the pump is used so if it goes out, bam access door!

but anyway i bought the pump and just the pump. i dont see why i would need anything else to hook it up but ive heard that i need to get a harness available at racetronix or would have to splice some wires to make it work.

heres what i have, do i need anything else to make this work?

EDIT: sorry resized pic but i guess not enough

 

Can't tell for sure from picture but it looks like a standard plug in that your present pump should have. Might check the + and - terminals to make sure both pumps are the same.

 

I installed a walbro pump in my dads mustang GT. It was a direct bolt in plug in deal. Didn't have to splice anything.

Sucks because I think the pump is dead again...probably because it sat for 6-7 months when the motor blew. Oh well its REALLY easy to change a fuel pump in a mustang.

 

I am not starting a fight, BUT.....
why not just do the work ONE time, change the pickup, and put an aftermarket inline electric in? That way if you have to change it again, you dont have to drop the tank either. A lot bettet than cutting a hole. However, I will give you credit, if you are going to put in an actual door, and do it right its a little better. If you are really going to do it right, are you gonna use compression fittings on the metal line then? Dont say your gonna put in rubber.

 

well im not going to use rubber lines where braded lines are necessary...im talking about a lot of money and power in this engine. and whatever it takes to get it right will be done defenitly. im putting in the door incase the used pump goes out and for when i get nitrous and a bigger pump is needed. i was just trying to see is that pump will drop in without splicing or if i had to buy that plug-n-play harness.

and i didnt know you could use an inline pump since these cars came with the intank pumps..please enlighten me, maybe that will save me some time

 

All you have to do is drop the tank "the correct way of doing this job" then remove the old fuel pump and add a pickup from a carbed third gen or fab up your own then install the inline fuel pump in the pull line from the tank and run a couple wires down from the original ones so it comes on and goes off .....its pretty simple and alot nicer than cutting up your car to install a pump .

I dont believe that cutting up your car even if your putting in an actual door will be a good idea your still going to have to cut all the metal lines to get the pump out then you have to fix that problem .

And if you have to cut your exhaust to get it out so be it just go up and buy an adapter to put it back together its cheap maybe 10 bucks including clamps at any parts store just get the proper adapter it should fit into one side that you cut and over the other side then 2 clamps and your done with the exhaust problem .

 

TTT about that harness...no im not cutting the car anymore

 

I put that same one in my car. same company too. yes everything plugs right in. you just run the new wire harness along your fuel lines. I think I had to clean off a spot for the ground loop to bolt to the car (near the rear brake hose bracket) and the power wire goes to the alt.) and you add a second ground to the batt terminal as a extra peice of mind.

the fuel pump itself I belive had a adapeter harness that pluged right to the sender

 

oh so you do have to have a harness??? all i have is this, the actual pump and i though i could just unplug the old pump and install this one.

or are they completly different looking

 

no, they are similar but, I got the hotwire kit too. I belive my pump had a adapter harness for it as well (inside the tank) check out there web site I think they show it.




I just looked and that picture on the page you linked shows it. it is on the right side of the picture next to the hose near the fuel pump (has a black wire and a red wire it's about 3-4 inches long)

 

You need this...

http://www.autoperformanceengineerin...pics/kit37.jpg

$10 from APE for kit #37.

You don't need the harness from racetronix, you have a relay already for your fuel pump. It just supplies thicker gauge wiring which is unnecessary unless you've got issues with your stock wiring.

 

 

thanx 91z....as a matter of fact i thought id as the man himself at APE and he told me the same thing, i needed kit number 37. it was only 10 bucks so i bought it. im guessing the harness is the main thing i needed there. now i just hope the used pump i bought works.....

 

Is there a problem?

 

yes, and know. saying it is only needed if there is a wiring problem is not completely true but, I see what you are trying to point out.

 

You only need the harness under 2 conditions. Your factory wiring is fubared and you are supplying way below battery voltage to the pump. The other is if you are at the limits of the pump and you need the little extra. Most people here aren't at the limits of the pump.

Anyone who buys a used pump is not looking to spend $$ on a harness that isn't necessary. If it was necessary for his application, he'd know it and wouldn't have to ask.

I don't know what the rolleyes is all about but you can state the case instead of just giving attitude. A smiley isn't helpful to the originator and gives no information at all.

 

I am so sorry sir I guess I did not help him at all, I only told him what harness to get. (he gave a link and I told him which wire it was) but, please inform me some more. I see you know all



All fuel pumps are voltage sensitive, the lower the voltage the lower the fuel volume. Gerotor pumps exhibit a significant increase in fuel volume with increased supply voltage. A Walbro pump's average fuel volume increases over 18% by increasing the supply voltage from 12 to 13.5 volts. The factory harness is marginal at best for supplying a factory pump with enough voltage to perform well. This is why the 'hot wire' modification is so popular. Replacing the factory pump with a high-performance pump such as the Walbro GSS340M can easily double the current demand under W.O.T. pressures. The voltage drop in the factory harness increases proportionally to the current demands of the pump. Racetronix has documented tests where the voltage drop in a factory harness has caused over a 25% drop in fuel pump volume. The Racetronix harness uses heavy 10 gauge copper wire to reduce voltage-drop to very low levels. The factory gauge of wire used is three gauges thinner. Our power feed comes off the back of the alternator where voltage is highest. It then runs through a Delphi weatherproof fuse holder and then to the back of the car. The Racetronix harness uses three-position male and female Delphi Weatherpack connectors which plug inline with the factory harness at the back of the tank. No cutting or splicing is required. A Siemens weatherproof 40 amp rated mil-spec. relay is used. These relays have silver plated contacts and are the best money can buy so that you can be guaranteed to have trouble-free operation. The Racetronix harness has a redundant ground upgrade as it is necessary to improve the harness on the negative side of the pump's supply as well. All the harness connections are crimped using certified Delphi crimpers and are soldered as well. All the harnesses we have seen to date from the competition are not soldered. Racetronix supplies a spare ATO fuse, black vinyl wire ties, silicon grease and mounting hardware with each kit. We are including as a bonus our optional battery to body ground upgrade kit. This kit upgrades the under-rated ground wire running from the battery to the inner side of the passenger's quarter panel. It includes a crimped and soldered piece of high strand count 8 gauge copper wire and a brass battery nut with an accessory tap.




but, I guess from what you said it is only needed if you have bad wiring (I guess that's how you would fix the problem then)

 

Sure you did point him to a picture of the adapter plug. And I gave him a link that supplied the adapter for a fraction of the cost of the hotwire kit and clarified to CamarosRUS that he didn't need the hotwire harness. Of course, you're not smart enough to discern that my explanation was to the racetronix hotwire harness, so I guess I have to spell it out for you. The original poster apparently figured it out that he needed the adapter plug and not the racetronix harness.

<snip quote from racetronix's webpage>

I gave my reasons for not needing the hotwire harness, and you gave me marketing fluff and saying you need it. Nice, lol. I have a bridge to sell. All he needed was the adapter.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=247594

From the horse's mouth...

Hmm, sounds exactly like what I stated.

LOL, sure, everyone needs the hotwire harness from racetronix. Go out and buy it, it doesn't matter if you're wiring is in perfect shape, or you've rewired it yourself or if you're running a stock camaro.

The only problem to resolve for the original poster was to be able to install his pump and I resolved that.

 

...but you're gonna cut a lid in the trunk to put this in, and 1/2 a@@ it. Buy the kit entire kit from racetronix, or one like it, or make your own. The voltage at the pump makes a difference, and if you do it this way, you'll have a problem down the road.


"Real men drop their rear when changing a pump"

 

lo-tec, go read my previous posts about me and cutting an access door and then read the dates. a while ago (when i hadnt much experience with cars period) i was going to cut the floor and install a access door (which i still think isnt half assed and wouldnt matter structurally unless its done like some and DUCTAPED :nono: ) but i dont feel 100% comfortable with splicing fuel lines back there. compression fittings change that BUT at any rate now im dropping the tank for one because ive never done it before, for two im going to clean it out very well and paint it, and i might even get a 4th gen tank when its out....

i still dont see a problem doing the access door but that argument will never be solved so i dont want to talk about that anymore


what i was really confused with was how the pump would actually get "plugged" into where the stock one went. i now know i only needed the pigtail that attaches to the walbro style pump that i cant splice into for power and ground. the one that comes in the $10 from APE. the racetronix better power and ground would be nice but i cant justify $70 for it. i will see if i can fab my own up with thicker wire when i get the tank dropped. ill probably run 8 ga. wire though.