valve lash..
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Car: 87 Camaro
Engine: Chevy V8
Transmission: auto
valve lash..
I got this from the archive..what do you guys think??
anything to add?
Daz
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">This is straight out of the GM service manual:
Line the mark on the harmonic balancer up to TDC of #1 cylinder firing position.
It will be the firing position when both #1 valves are closed.
With the engine in the number one firing position the following valves may be adjusted:
EXHAUST: Cyl. 1, 3, 4, 8
INTAKE: Cyl. 1, 2, 5, 7
Turn in the rocker arm until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrod while turning the rocker arm nut. When the play has been removed turn the rocker arm nut one full turn. (I go 1/2 turn)
Now rotate the crankshaft one complete turn, to adjust the remainder of the valves.
With the engine in the number six firing position, the following valves may be adjusted:
EXHAUST: Cyl. 2, 5, 6, 7
INTAKE: Cyl. 3, 4, 6, 8
Then it says "Install rocker covers" <--lol
I use this way at work its easier than adjusting them when its running, and it makes a hell of a lot less mess. You can also look at the rotor position on the distributor to see what cylinder it is on at TDC.
</font>
Line the mark on the harmonic balancer up to TDC of #1 cylinder firing position.
It will be the firing position when both #1 valves are closed.
With the engine in the number one firing position the following valves may be adjusted:
EXHAUST: Cyl. 1, 3, 4, 8
INTAKE: Cyl. 1, 2, 5, 7
Turn in the rocker arm until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrod while turning the rocker arm nut. When the play has been removed turn the rocker arm nut one full turn. (I go 1/2 turn)
Now rotate the crankshaft one complete turn, to adjust the remainder of the valves.
With the engine in the number six firing position, the following valves may be adjusted:
EXHAUST: Cyl. 2, 5, 6, 7
INTAKE: Cyl. 3, 4, 6, 8
Then it says "Install rocker covers" <--lol
I use this way at work its easier than adjusting them when its running, and it makes a hell of a lot less mess. You can also look at the rotor position on the distributor to see what cylinder it is on at TDC.
</font>
Daz
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From: green bay WI
Car: 1989 Camaro Convertible
That is the way I have always done it. Everyone has their opinion on how much you should tighten it after the play in the pushrod is gone, I go 1/2 turn myself, and have never had any problems.
I can't think of anything to add. Sounds like it covered pretty good.
I can't think of anything to add. Sounds like it covered pretty good.
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Works fine as long as you have a really tiny cam like most factory ones. It won't work very reliably with any kind of performance cams, because the lobes are too big, and some of them will always be off their base circle.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
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Car: 87 Camaro
Engine: Chevy V8
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Works fine as long as you have a really tiny cam like most factory ones. It won't work very reliably with any kind of performance cams, because the lobes are too big, and some of them will always be off their base circle.</font>
What would you suggest?
this came from z28clone
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Do this,pick any cylinder,#1 for starters,do one at a time,turn motor over clockwise until the exhaust rocker moves down,like the valve is opening ,THEN adjust the intake rocker of that cylinder,don try to adjust the exhaust rocker when it has tension on it from the cam.Tighten nut while spinning the pushrod,it spins freely when no tension is applied from the rocker,as soon as you feel the slightest bit of resistence while turning the pushrod while tightening stop,you now have zero lash,now spin the nut 3/4 to 1 more turn,NO MORE.Now continue turning the motor over until you see the intake rocker open,no do the same for the exhaust.Take your time do 1 cylinder at a time.Just assemble the whole valve train loosly and go from there.One at a time,email me for info if you need it.
</font>
</font>
Daz
[This message has been edited by Daz (edited May 11, 2001).]
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From: Lubbock, TX USA
That looks exactly how I typed it way back then with my Joe-SDTech user name I think, I lost one of my usernames passwords 
BTW I have nothing more to add
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-Joseph
ASE Master Automobile Technician
Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet
1967 Camaro (Vortec Heads, GM Vortec Intake, ZZ4 roller camshaft) --- Planning T-56 Install in the near future
1992 Firebird (Weiler Vortec Heads, LT4 Hot Cam, GM Vortec Intake, 3000 Stall, 3.73's, Auburn Posi)
BTW I have nothing more to add
------------------
-Joseph
ASE Master Automobile Technician
Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet
1967 Camaro (Vortec Heads, GM Vortec Intake, ZZ4 roller camshaft) --- Planning T-56 Install in the near future
1992 Firebird (Weiler Vortec Heads, LT4 Hot Cam, GM Vortec Intake, 3000 Stall, 3.73's, Auburn Posi)
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Oklahoma City, USA
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: Yes
Transmission: That, too.
The part where it says
could get you into trouble if you have any amount of valve overlap, which you do. At the instant that the intake valve begins to open, your exhaust valve is not fully closed yet.
My method is almost identical to that one, with one slight alteration: find TDC on cylinder 1 on the firing stroke. At this point both valves are completely closed. You can easily verify they are both closed by observing a total lack of rocker movement as the cylinder is coming up to TDC. At this point, adjust both intake and exhaust on #1 cylinder only.
Now, following the firing order, rotate the crank 1/4 turn and the next cylinder in the firing order should now be at it's TDC on the firing stroke and ready for it's valve adjustment. By rotating 1/4 turn between each successive adjustment I ensure that all valves are as solidly on their base circles as they can get, and I don't get into any trouble with valve overlap because they don't overlap on the firing stroke.
This method is much slower than the initial one you posted at the top where you do eight valves, turn the crank over and do the other eight. But, I readily admit to being the slowest shade tree mechanic on the planet, and I don't do this for a living so there is no need for speed. I want to just be absolutely certain that when I button the sucker back up I won't have any troubles.
[This message has been edited by D_Amlee (edited May 11, 2001).]
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Now continue turning the motor over until you see the intake rocker open,now do the same for the exhaust.</font>
My method is almost identical to that one, with one slight alteration: find TDC on cylinder 1 on the firing stroke. At this point both valves are completely closed. You can easily verify they are both closed by observing a total lack of rocker movement as the cylinder is coming up to TDC. At this point, adjust both intake and exhaust on #1 cylinder only.
Now, following the firing order, rotate the crank 1/4 turn and the next cylinder in the firing order should now be at it's TDC on the firing stroke and ready for it's valve adjustment. By rotating 1/4 turn between each successive adjustment I ensure that all valves are as solidly on their base circles as they can get, and I don't get into any trouble with valve overlap because they don't overlap on the firing stroke.
This method is much slower than the initial one you posted at the top where you do eight valves, turn the crank over and do the other eight. But, I readily admit to being the slowest shade tree mechanic on the planet, and I don't do this for a living so there is no need for speed. I want to just be absolutely certain that when I button the sucker back up I won't have any troubles.
[This message has been edited by D_Amlee (edited May 11, 2001).]
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Daz:
opinions??
Daz
</font>
opinions??
Daz
</font>
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A NEWBIE, ok i am getting to this point now. I have just installed my heads and got them torqued and all. Now I am installing RR, I have read the info about adjusting them However I dont know what is what as far as which is the intake and ext valves. HOW can you tell which is which on a 96 LT1 and i have the elderbrock preformer RPM heads. tkanks.
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From: ATHENS-GREECE
Car: 1982 FIREBIRD-1983 CAMARO
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: TH350-TH200
hi guys!i am form greece.i have a 1983 lg4 camaro.i have another similar problem...i put in my motor a new camshaft..new lifters...new pushrods..new rockers...and i ajust them....ok the motor runs perfect..but...after a week...i hear a "clack clack clack" sound form the lifters.so i reajust the rockers..and the sound stops baut for a little again...after a week again the sound returns....what is happening can anyone help me?
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