What is up with lifters?!?!? Need help!
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Louisville, KY
Car: 92 Mustang Coupe/89 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 carb'd/305
Transmission: T5/T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 and stock TrakLok/stock GM
What is up with lifters?!?!? Need help!
Im currently replacing the camshaft in my 82 Camaro 305. Im at the point where I take out the lifters...but they aint comin out! Ive gotten 2 out with much cussing and hassling. Nothing seems to work not even a decent magnet I picked up at AutoZone, its like they are stuck in there forever. The 2 Ive taken out look great, no wear marks on bottom. So, is there an easy way to get these things out? If there is, please please help me! ALso, I saw a book where they showed a "lifter removal tool". WTF is that and where do you get it at? I tried autozone, they have never heard of it lol idiots. anyways, Do I absolutely have to change lifters because if I cant get some help here, then I dont know what to do. they seem in good condition so far and I wonder if I could pop all the lifters into their "raised" half in/half out postion where they're stuck at, maybe I can pull the old cam out and pop the new one in perhaps? or not? Well, any help is definately appreciated, thanks!
Last edited by TBI92Camaro; Sep 16, 2004 at 08:49 PM.
Just grab the buggers with vice grips and rip them out. People will come here yelling about scoring the bore if your scared you can pull the oil pan and push them out the bottom.
Last edited by nsimmons; Sep 16, 2004 at 08:56 PM.
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
If you're replacing them, just hand rotate the cam and pop the lifters up and grab the tops with a pliers.
When I did mine, after mine froze (by froze, I mean would NOT move), i took off the timing chain and bolted the sprocket back on. I put an open end wrench on the gear and hammered on that. That popped the lifters up. From there, I viced them out. May not be the best way, but it was efficient.
Don't use a new flat tappet cam with old flat tappet lifters. The cam and lifters, over time, develop a very specific wear pattern. A pattern so specific that you can't (well you can, but HIGHLY ill-advised) use old tappets with a new cam or vice versa. The lifters need to be kept specific to the cam lobe they cam from.
When I did mine, after mine froze (by froze, I mean would NOT move), i took off the timing chain and bolted the sprocket back on. I put an open end wrench on the gear and hammered on that. That popped the lifters up. From there, I viced them out. May not be the best way, but it was efficient.
Don't use a new flat tappet cam with old flat tappet lifters. The cam and lifters, over time, develop a very specific wear pattern. A pattern so specific that you can't (well you can, but HIGHLY ill-advised) use old tappets with a new cam or vice versa. The lifters need to be kept specific to the cam lobe they cam from.
Last edited by Stekman; Sep 16, 2004 at 08:56 PM.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Louisville, KY
Car: 92 Mustang Coupe/89 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 carb'd/305
Transmission: T5/T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 and stock TrakLok/stock GM
Well they are coming up like halfway, but Ive used Channel locks, vise prips and even needle nose pliers
to try and get these buggers out and nothing works. I mean, I have no idea, as for the dropping through the bottom idea, that means the motor as to coem out the car to get the pan off doesnt it? Eh, not goin there, too much work so little time lol. I gotta get this car running by Monday really. If I can get these lifters out in osme form or fashion, i can put my cam in and newl ifters, and itll start rolling. BTW< How do you properly break in a new cam in this situation? I mean no one has ever told me the correct and best way to do it. thanks.
to try and get these buggers out and nothing works. I mean, I have no idea, as for the dropping through the bottom idea, that means the motor as to coem out the car to get the pan off doesnt it? Eh, not goin there, too much work so little time lol. I gotta get this car running by Monday really. If I can get these lifters out in osme form or fashion, i can put my cam in and newl ifters, and itll start rolling. BTW< How do you properly break in a new cam in this situation? I mean no one has ever told me the correct and best way to do it. thanks. Supreme Member
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
you just need to rotate the cam over until the lifters come up in the bore high enough to get ahold of with pliers then rotate the lifter in the bore and pull upwards as hard as you can ........
as for breaking in the cam you should do it just like always when a new cam is installed
as for breaking in the cam you should do it just like always when a new cam is installed
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Pull harder. Real hard. I broke the tops of several of mine when I took mine out, thats how hard I was clamped onto them.
Cam break in, cover the lobes, dizzy gear, and fuel pump eccentric (if used), as well as the bearing surfaces. Basically, cover the cam with lube, front to back. Then CAREFULLY slide the cam in. Apply some lube to the lifter mating surfaces (the part that touches the lobe). Drop them in and adjust the lash. Run the engine for 15-20 min @ 2000ish RPM. After this, shut down and change the oil. I use 30w dino juice for the next 500 or so miles. After that, oil of choice.
Cam break in, cover the lobes, dizzy gear, and fuel pump eccentric (if used), as well as the bearing surfaces. Basically, cover the cam with lube, front to back. Then CAREFULLY slide the cam in. Apply some lube to the lifter mating surfaces (the part that touches the lobe). Drop them in and adjust the lash. Run the engine for 15-20 min @ 2000ish RPM. After this, shut down and change the oil. I use 30w dino juice for the next 500 or so miles. After that, oil of choice.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Louisville, KY
Car: 92 Mustang Coupe/89 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 carb'd/305
Transmission: T5/T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 and stock TrakLok/stock GM
im clamped down REAL hard and the damn block gets in the way, ugh. Man im gonna be cussin alot tommorrow i tell ya that. Anyways, put 10w-30 in correct and then change it again at 500 miles? Oh, and when I tighten down and then back off 3/4 (zero lash i believE), i leave the valve covers off while the car is running, how do i know i got it right exactly? Like, afteR i put the pushrods back in, ill tighten the rocker arm nut all way down then back out 3/4 turn, like everyone had told me to do so. then I start the car, covers off to watch it i assume and the cut it off after what tho? Anywas thanks for the help so far, I think im gonna go get a 500 lb magnet and lower it over those things
Thanks agin.
Thanks agin. Trending Topics
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 657
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From: Louisville, KY
Car: 92 Mustang Coupe/89 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 carb'd/305
Transmission: T5/T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 and stock TrakLok/stock GM
Oh and BTw, AutoZone has a double roller timing chain. Mine is really bad so im gonna buy one and their Double roller with cogs/gears is only 30 bucks, think its work it or just spend like 10 on a single roller?
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
You guys know there is a tool you can rent specifically for this job.... right?
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
I slipped a screwdriver under the retainers of mine to pull them up, but the motor didnt have any buildup and gunk in it, which could make the lifters hard to remove.
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From: Bowling Green KY
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: 350ci
Transmission: T-5
Stekman's way is how I had to do it when I lost a lobe. I used a pair of Vise Grips and pulled, cussed, twisted, cussed, and pulled some more. The bottom of the lifter was badly mushroomed but it came out eventually.
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From: Chasing Electrons
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Try some carburetor cleaner on them, such as Gum-Out. This will soften/remove the varnish that builds up around the base. Just squirt a little around the lifter where it enters the bore. Let sit for a minute and try to remove them.
RBob.
RBob.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Louisville, KY
Car: 92 Mustang Coupe/89 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 carb'd/305
Transmission: T5/T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 and stock TrakLok/stock GM
Originally posted by Air_Adam
You guys know there is a tool you can rent specifically for this job.... right?
You guys know there is a tool you can rent specifically for this job.... right?
i leave the valve covers off while the car is running, how do i know i got it right exactly? Like, afteR i put the pushrods back in, ill tighten the rocker arm nut all way down then back out 3/4 turn
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Originally posted by TBI92Camaro
I thought there was, where od i get it and what is it exactly called? I need it badly? where can I get it at? thanks.
I thought there was, where od i get it and what is it exactly called? I need it badly? where can I get it at? thanks.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 657
Likes: 0
From: Louisville, KY
Car: 92 Mustang Coupe/89 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 carb'd/305
Transmission: T5/T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 and stock TrakLok/stock GM
Well what store will have it? ive called autoZOne, Napa, CarQuest, and a local store and they all dont have it and most never heard of it. any help is appreciated thanks.
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