I installed a T-5 swap in my car in January. In March, the clutch failed, still not sure why. My car has been sitting for 2 months.

Today, I removed the tranny and was going to pull the bellhousing. The brand new, 12-point, bellhousing bolts are frozen into the block! I used my 'cheap' home use only impact gun, and they would not budge. I then used my torque wrench (I know, not supposed to) which is like a very long breaker bar, and was able to loosen one bolt. I tried a couple more, and they wouldn't budge. Finally, I applied all my strength, and the 12-point Craftsman socket split open.

I did not use any Loctite, and the bolt holes were clean when I installed them. I torqued them to whatever spec was listed for them, I think 75 lbs or so.

If I can't get the bellhousing bolts off, I am royally screwed. I can just see it now, using my die grinder to grind all the bolt heads off. Yuck! Then even at that what do I do about the studs frozen in the block? This is ridiculous, only in for 4 months and now frozen like they have been in rust for 15 years!

The one bolt that could not be tightened with a socket, I used a wrench to tighten it when I did the install. I just used the same wrench to remove it, and it came out easy and the threads are nice and clean, not galled.

I don't understand why the others have become so solid?

[This message has been edited by Tom Keliher (edited May 11, 2001).]

 

Those bolts are 3/8"-16. Torque on that size hardware should be 35-40 max. That might have something to do with why they won't come back out.

Use a ½" drive 12-point impact socket. Then use lithium grease or something like that on the threads next time.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited May 11, 2001).]

 

Yeah, well like I said I don't remember. Whatever the spec is in Helms is what I used.

But, yes I did put them in dry. I'm gonna use anti-seize this time!

[This message has been edited by Tom Keliher (edited May 11, 2001).]

 

a 6 point socket would be strong and you have a better chance at not rounding off the bolts.

 

Uhhhhhh, he said they are 12-pt bolts.


I dunno what to tell ya Tom, that makes no sense. Even if they were overtorqued I dont think that would do it. Cheap bolts?

Lemme know what happened to the clutch, Im curious.

 

Well, cheaper bolts than ARP but still they are Grade 8, gold cad plated, 12 point hardened bolts.

I need to go to my work and pick up my insanely strong MAC impact gun and find, borrow, or buy a strong 12 pt 3/8 "impact" socket and that hopefully will spin them out.

I hope there is a 3/8 12 pt impact socket out there to be had!

EDIT: Yep, just looked in my Snap On catalog and there is!

[This message has been edited by Tom Keliher (edited May 11, 2001).]

 

If you have the equipment, heat them up with a torch until they start to slightly glow. Then remove them. I wouldn't use them--the heat will hurt them.

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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

Tom,

Two words - Anti Seize!

O.K. you had to know that was coming....

Everything except internal engine, transmission, and differential bolts is a candidate for anti seize (exhaust and chassis parts especially).

Most manufacturers don't recommend any type of lubricants on wheel studs, so they don't loosen themselves, but I "cheat" there too (but I don't recommend it either).

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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Yeah, and I have two different kinds of anti-sieze in my garage!

Don't know what I was thinking when I did the install, but it sure has bit me in the *** because of it!

 

OK, I got ahold of my MAC tools guy and bought a 12 pt 3/8" swivel impact. That and my MAC impact gun spun them out like nothing was up.

Before that, however here is the scorecard:

2 split standard Craftsman sockets
1 split Craftsman swivel socket
1 split Craftsman box wrench

 

RB, I am looking at the Helms manaul and the torque figure for those 3/8 bellhousing to engine bolts is indeed 70 ft-lbs.

 

I'm with "82camaro" on this one. Use a torch to heat them up. It does wonders. I don't think that you will have to heat them until they glow though. I had a shock bolt that was stuck and an Ingersoll-Rand 1/2 drive impact wrench wouldn't budge it. I put the torch on it and it came off with ease. I have broken several bolts with that impact wrench. That bolt was ON there! Good Luck!

 

Tom,
I have been following your car for a few years now. Sorry to hear about your problem. For the ones you can reach, Propane Torch broh! Heat the bolt, it will back out. The others, PB blaster spray.
I'd rather cut the heads and back the tranny then have to recut the threads, though the bolt should break before you break the threads in the iron block. If the bolts snap, you will have enough of the bolt to grip with vice grips to pull them out once the tranny is away. Good luck.


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Rob P
89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Edelbrock Hi-Flow Intake
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92Z28convt5spd
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BETTER DRIVING THRU SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER!

 

Thanks guys. But the bolts are out now, read a couple posts back

 

Well, that explains the frozen bolts: the car was feeling left out and lonely! These cars need continual attention and loving in order to feel wanted and needed. You ignored the babe for two whole months, and she was pi$$ed at you!

My car does the same thing to me. If I drive it at least twice a week, it runs fine. But as soon as I let it sit idle for more than a few weeks, something breaks on me the moment I start it up again. The car feels scorned, and is getting revenge on me.