I heard somewhere that if you paint the inside of your block like under the intake and in the bottom end it helps with oil flow. Is this true?? If so what type of paint should I use?

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
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Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

 

I don't know about paint, but I sometimes coat the valley walls and floor with a coating to help oil drainback. You could probably do it with an enamel maybe.

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"To provoke dreams of terror in the slumber of prosperity has become the moral duty of literature"

-Ernst Fischer

 

I generally do the lifter valley, rear of the case (in front of the flywheel, inside the heads, and crank area.

I've had good success with a first coat of very thin RustOLeum and a second coat at regular consistancy. I think it helps oil drainback, preventing sludge buildup in the corners, and hides all the welding on the heads after porting work. I haven't decided if it helps or hinders cooling, but should at least keep the oil from getting as much heat from the heads.

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Later,
Vader
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"Fear is how I fall, Confusing what is real..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

I guess I did it the long and hard way, by using a die grinder. Lots of work but well worth it. If you take this route, make sure you open up the oil valley at the rear, and the oil holes in the front going in to the chain area.


Ron

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'82 Trans Am
'81 Camaro Z-28
'94 Vette LT1 Coupe

 

I agree

I've heard a lot of people using a few coats of RustOLeum... Thats what I plan on doing when I get to that point...

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Hecubus
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The best thing I know of is electric motor varnish. A coat of some sort of primer first, then the varnish. It stays thick and very shiny, so the oil isn't trapped in the surface porosity of the cast iron where it will pick up heat. This helps especially on top of the heads which is the hottest place in the crankcase. Anything you can do that keeps oil out of that area, or makes it spend less time there, will result in much lower oil temps.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Has anyone heard of or used Red Glyptal? It comes in brush-on and aerosol spray. I've read that it is used for this purpose.

 

Glyptal is (or was) GE's brand name for their electric motor varnish. I don't know if that exact product is still made, but it did work reasonably well a few decades ago. Seems like one of the old hot-rod books even mentioned it by name.

I used to work at a place that carried electric motor rewinding supplies, we carried that brand among others; there were other brands that worked better, because they would build up thicker whereas the Glyptal was a little thinner and would conform to the surface texture more than the others.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

I've seen Red Glyptal advertised in the Eastwood catalog. The catalog does mention that it's used on generator and alternator armatures. It's also acid and oil resistant.