Just finished adjusting the lash on my L98 rockers. I used the 50/50 methd whereby you torque half at the #1 TDC position and the other half at the #6 TDC position.

I have a question- should all the rods now by difficult to twist at all positions in their travel. After torquing 3/4 turn past 0 lash, some are still turning when at the initial elimination of lash, they were tight.

Any help would be appreciated

 

By "rods", do you mean the pushrods?

If so, then it's fine. They're not as hard to spin because the internals of the lifter have compressed enough to release tension on the pushrods.

BTW, the 50/50 method of setting lash sucks monkey butt. Do it the right way.

EO/IC

Start with the #1 piston and rotate the crankshaft until the Exhaust valve just starts to Open. Set the lash on the intake valve.

Continue rotating the crankshaft until the Intake valve is almost Closed. Set the lash on the exhaust valve.

Move to the # 8 piston and repeat.

 

After setting the valves, the lifter will bleed down after a short time. The pushrod always loosens up a few minutes after you set it. This is normal. Resist the urge to tighten them again.

 

"BTW, the 50/50 method of setting lash sucks monkey butt. Do it the right way."
Not sure about this... seems perfectly logical. If you look at the positioning of the lifters on the ones that you're supposed to be tightening "in batch", they are very close.
I really can't see there being much harm even if there's a quarter turn variance among some pushrods- but then again, I could be wrong...

 

bTW, 92RS,
Where's that sound clip of your exhaust?

 

When I set lash I start at #1 TDC Compression stroke. You can set both valves on #1. Turn the engine 90 degrees, and set #8. You just keep doing this down the firing order. When you are done, turn the engine over one complete revolution and you are back at TDC #1, and ready to install a distributor. The best thing about this, is that rarely ever will you have to relash a valve. I wa taught this trick by a race engine builder w/ about 30 years experience. Its never failed me yet.

 

That's what I do. Mark the balancers outer hub into 4 equal quadrants and rotate it 2 full times. Just make sure to establish true TDC on the balancer first.

 

yeah... thats how i do it, and thats how i've been told to do it by a few ppl, one of them being a guy that builds race cars and custom builds turbo kits for cars.

 

WHOOPDY ****ING DOO!!!!

The way I told to do it is the way ANYONE can do it without having to find TDC, mark the balancer, blah blah blah!!!

But wtf do I know?

 

Dude thats pretty well uncalled for. No one here made any comments directed towards you. No one said crap about the way that you do this. Many of us learned from people who make a living building race engines, and this is how they do it. Why are you attacking?

 

So. I had a guy who builds WINNING race engines show me.

Or no... he was my mother's uncle's brother's sister.

Why does it matter "who" showed anyone? That's what I don't get. That doesn't make it "more right", so why even say something like that.

Anywho...
I could care less. It just sounds like someone is questioning my credibility when a comment like that is made.

If someone would rather make the job more labor intensive, the so be it.

 

hmm..

i wasn't flaming you... and i wasn't saying you were wrong. i was just saying how i do it and how i was told to do it. stop jumping to conclusions before you jump too far and dig your face in someone's shoe.

 

Nothing like a bunch of crying babies. Everyone does it thier own way.

 

WOW Now that you've set your vavles already do a quick visual to see if all your nuts have the same amount of thread showing through the top. If some have waay more or waay less threads than others, this may be a problem that you should go back and double check them.

I tried the BTDC, ATDC, etc...1/4 turn valve lash and royally screwed it up. Musta been head in butt that night. I do it the slow way of working on each cylinder one at a time. I press down on the side of the rocker that the push rod seats into and bump the motor over until the rocker is bottomed out so I know the lifter is on the base circle of the cam then set lash.

Yeah, yeah it takes me all of 15 minutes every Friday night to check them before the races so I've gotten profiecent at the slow way to do it Like I've got anything better to rush into!!

 

Heh Heh,

I start the motor up without the valve covers on, start
turning the arms down until the motor sounds lumpy
( who cares about tuning, I want it to SOUND like a rail )
and use a large umbrella to keep the oil off of me. If
any oil drips, then I won't have to wax my fenders.

Just make sure you replace the oil you lose. As for the
umbrella, it will work better since it's now waterproofed

 

LMAO

 

That'll work too. I just hate having to pull valve covers to readjust hydraulic lifters. Thats the reason I do it the way that I do. I have never had to readjust a lifter that way, unless you count the time that one kept backing off, and I had to double nut it.

 

The current mill is soild roller so I get to cheat!! The motor we had last yr was a hyd flat tappet, when we assemblied that, I was able to go through after we bolted it together, set the valves my slow way til they had drag on the pushrods then I went 3/4 turn past. Luckily the motor fired and ran like a million bucks and I never touched the valves the whole time it was in the car until a hardened pushrod decided not to be so hard anymore

I switched over to the solid roller for onvious power reasons, but think when I do another motor for a street cruiser/family rod I'm going to either have it be a soild flat tappet for ease of valve setting, or bite the bullet and go hyd roller for the lil bit of extra power. I'll figure it out when the times comes. But I do sympothise with the hyd. adjustment and the mess it can create. I've tried the rocker arm plugs, valve cover with hole and built in sheild and I just dont think there is a perfect, unmessy way to set the lash on a hyd cam if you have to go back through them.

 

I sincerely apologize to any and all parties involved in my blatant attempt to release my anger and frustration, which should have been directed exclusively toward my boss.

Please find it in your ever forgiving hearts to accept my humble withdraw of the offensive comment(s) which I thoughtlessly posted.

I guess I shouldn't post here while I'm at work and just got served mandatory overtime. Puts me in a cranky mood. :shrug:

AJ

 

AJ-92RS,

Thats cool, everyone here is Human when it comes
to work issues.

Hey, just remember to use your umbrella when
adjusting your rocker arms





If speed kills, how come I'm still here ?

John B.

 

Why is it, when you are broke there is no overtime to be had? But, you can guarantee, when you have things to do it will be mandatory?

 

All you're doing by rotating the engine over more is wiping the cam break-in lubrication off the cam. For breaking in a new flat tappet cam, the 1/2 turn past zero lash and 50/50 methods rule. Your way, or the 50/50 way, you're still setting lash on the base circle of the cam, so your way just takes more time and effort. Be lazy. Never have a cam failure. Learn the 50/50.

 

is it better to go with a 1/4 or 1/2 turn after zero lash on a hyd. roller setup?

 

When I set lash, the engine goes over three times, twice setting lash, and once to return to TDC.

 

Well, that's a lot of info.
Now, in the overall scheme of things, if one rocker nut is torqued 1/2 past 0 lash and the other 3/4 (as could be the net effect, I suppose, using 50/50 since not all valves are exactly in the same position when nuts are torqued) is this detrimental to the engine?